Attic Insulation

[Senior Citizen]

My house is an old block house. No insualtion whatsoever in the walls. Attic has about 5-6 inches of white cotton(ie) looking fluff blown in. 15 years ago when I bought the house we rewrired some outlets, switches and moved/added some lights around. I also moved the air-handler about 20 feet and completely rebuilt the ducts in the attic.

Well, with alll that stomping/climbing around up there a lot of the insulation is flattened down to less than 2 inches and some has been moved to add wires and the whole attic's insulation looks like coons have lived up there for years (they haven't..it's really clean just "fryumpy"). House is 2100 sq feet. has about 3' of crest in the center line. 1/2" decking plywood, tarpaper & shingles. Then 6 years ago was lathed with 1X4's and a metal roof put on it

I have a 5 ton ac/heat pump. Cold air out of the closest vent is 50-51 degrees. In the summer time like yesterday and today, I set the ac on 77 or 78 and it rarely shuts off.

Had a guy come today to give me an estimate on blowing in some more insulation He crawled around and told me he could blow in fibergalss and bring it up to an R-38 level. Gave me a price of $855.00.

So what to you think............good price, not enough R factor, use a different type of batting? Really looking for approvals and good/better suggestions?

tks in advance,
Lee

 

[zercool]

Not sure how much square footage you're insulating; if you're comfortable getting up there and doing it yourself it's a lot cheaper.

Either use the pink fiber batts - last I looked they were about $40-50 for 140sq.ft. coverage at R30 - or do blown-in. Most of the box stores will rent or include a free rental for the blower if you buy a certain amount of the blow-in fiber.

When we close on our house the first thing I'm doing is putting the pink fiberglass batts in the attic in a big way.

 

[tomhenry]

Or, you can buy the blown in type, but just scatter it by hand. IIRC, places like Lowes sells two types: fiberglass and paper based. If you were to scatter the fiberglass, wear gloves, long sleeve shirt and a face mask. That stuff is bad for your lungs.

If you were to scatter the paper based, I wouldn't think you would need the above precautions.

Or, rent the machine. But either way, you really need to insulate your walls, too. That's a good deal more complicated.

 

[Wyatt Burp]

We just paid around $850 three weeks ago to have the attic sprayed. It's a flame retardant material made of a paper product that looks cottony. It brought it up to a super high level to code. I forgot the rating right now. Your price quote was identical, though.

 

[Spotteddog]

An aside. (and has zero to do with your house likely)
My Son at his place (s/w of Salt Lake City) decided to have the insulation upgraded in his attic 3 weeks ago. After the job was done all members of the family took off in different directions. 3 hours later he received a text message from a neighbor, that his house is smoking. Upon his arrival, he found the DIL (who was closer after getting the TM) hosing down the roof and the F/D pulling up out front. $60-$70 K worth of damage later (structural and water). He was told by the F/D Captain that the installers likely had stomped hard enough across the joists, to damage the B/X laying across the beams under the existing insulation, and 2 hours later "poof". The hotel has been comfortable since and they should be back into the house by July.

 

[mtb1bkr]

I don't know what the rating is in my attic but I have the rolls up there and they are between 18 and 24 inches thick if I had to guess. I was shocked. The inspector also said I have reflective sheathing underneath the shingles. The house is only 4 years old. I just put an evaporative cooler up a few months ago and it's not haveing any troubles keeping the house cool. Ask me again in July/August time frame when it's the hottest time of the year and I may have a different opinion. I also have an AC unit but we won't use that unless it rains. The evap unit pushes the air thats in the house through spring loaded vents in the attic which has the added benefit of helping to keep the attic cooler.

Bill

 

[Senior Citizen]

Or, you can buy the blown in type, but just scatter it by hand. IIRC, places like Lowes sells two types: fiberglass and paper based. If you were to scatter the fiberglass, wear gloves, long sleeve shirt and a face mask. That stuff is bad for your lungs.

If you were to scatter the paper based, I wouldn't think you would need the above precautions.

Or, rent the machine. But either way, you really need to insulate your walls, too. That's a good deal more complicated.

XXXXXXXXX

Been on the phone with Lowes for the past 30 minutes. Green Fiber is $10.95/bag. Adding six inches of insulation to the existing inuslation would take me to roughly R38. Would need about 50 bags to do the whole attic. Buying that much fiber they would let me use the blower for free after a $250 deposit.

Question now is do I feel like (am I able) crawling around up in my attic for an early morning job for serveral hours to save $300. Then clean up everything.

Job includes going to get the fill and machine, do the job, clean up the mess I made, haul off 50 plastic bags, clean up the blower and take it back to Lowes. Oh yeah, I have to have someone putting the bulk into the machine too.

I think I'm gonna write a check for $850 and save my strength and energy for pulling in grouper and snapper.

SC

 

[Spotteddog]

And wise you are to do so, too!

 

[rodcraft]

Whatever it costs to not mess with insulation is well worth it. Low on the difficult scale, quite high on the misery scale.

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

XXXXXXXXX

Been on the phone with Lowes for the past 30 minutes. Green Fiber is $10.95/bag. Adding six inches of insulation to the existing inuslation would take me to roughly R38. Would need about 50 bags to do the whole attic. Buying that much fiber they would let me use the blower for free after a $250 deposit.

Question now is do I feel like (am I able) crawling around up in my attic for an early morning job for serveral hours to save $300. Then clean up everything.

Job includes going to get the fill and machine, do the job, clean up the mess I made, haul off 50 plastic bags, clean up the blower and take it back to Lowes. Oh yeah, I have to have someone putting the bulk into the machine too.

I think I'm gonna write a check for $850 and save my strength and energy for pulling in grouper and snapper.

SC

That Amigo is a no brainer Kinda like do I cut down that rotten 75 foot tall water oak next to my office or write a check for $750 to the tree man to do it????? Duhhhhhhhhhhh

 

[Smitty500Mag]

Been on the phone with Lowes for the past 30 minutes. Green Fiber is $10.95/bag. Adding six inches of insulation to the existing inuslation would take me to roughly R38. Would need about 50 bags to do the whole attic. Buying that much fiber they would let me use the blower for free after a $250 deposit.

A little over $300 bucks to not have to fool with it is a bargain in my opinion. If you're like me you'll probably not realize it until you're about half way through doing it yourself. If I had it to do over I wouldn't be doing it myself. That crap makes me cough worse than anything I've ever been around. And it don't matter what you wear it'll make you itch like a flee infested hound-dog.

Smitty

 

[walkinghorse]

Lee, can't remeber your exact location, but Florida comes to mind?
If so , per IRC 2006, one of the more common applicable residential codes, all of Florida except the southern 3 counties are Zone 2 (Zone 1 requires the same ceiling insulation).
Zone 2 requires R 30 in the ceiling, Table N1102.1.
So anything over R30 , say R38 and you meet code, which is coming up for an upgrade in 2010 if adopted by your local jurisdiction. N1102.2.1 specific insulation requirements, says that R-30 is deemed to satisfy the requirements of R-38 if the full depth of the insulation extends over the wall top plate at the eaves.

One trick to consider is to have tapes or rulers attached to the verticals of the trusses so you can easily monitor the depth of the applied insulation without having to crawl over the insultion and measure as a check. Insulation will settle somewhat even for a short time after install so you can monitor what it ends up at after settlement.

 

[USAF385]

Take it from a guy who spends hours a day in attics. Pay to have it done.

I do HVAC for a living. I think you said the attic was 3ft at the crest? I have to install air handlers and run lines in attics like that.. NOT fun. Most of them have blown in insulation since they aren't used for any if much storage. My attic has over a 6ft crest and runs the length of the house. Rolled insulation under plywood flooring. (A dream compared to most attics!)

Blown in insulation is a pain to deal with. You mentioned having the AC on, so I'm assuming it's been hot. Even early in the morning, you'll be getting hot yourself up there. It wont take long for you to be a soggy mess and have insulation all over you.. unless you wear full clothing (which I never do.. I'm used to it).

As far as cellulose vs fiberglass, well if you're not doing it, who cares. I've been working with all sorts for years, I'm used to fiberglass.. it not as bad as people who don't work with it often make it out to be.

More important issues:

Fiberglass is great but can be harmful to your health.. IF YOU ARE INSTALLING without a mask. Other than that it's a great! Once installed there's no risk unless you crawl into your attic and start inhaling the insulation.

Cellulose (or paper) has an okay thermal resistance. As far as insulating goes, it's good. However, even though it's treated with flame retardants, if packed around electrical wiring it has been a fire hazard.

 

[Senior Citizen]

Lee, can't remeber your exact location, but Florida comes to mind?
If so , per IRC 2006, one of the more common applicable residential codes, all of Florida except the southern 3 counties are Zone 2 (Zone 1 requires the same ceiling insulation).
Zone 2 requires R 30 in the ceiling, Table N1102.1.
So anything over R30 , say R38 and you meet code, which is coming up for an upgrade in 2010 if adopted by your local jurisdiction. N1102.2.1 specific insulation requirements, says that R-30 is deemed to satisfy the requirements of R-38 if the full depth of the insulation extends over the wall top plate at the eaves.

One trick to consider is to have tapes or rulers attached to the verticals of the trusses so you can easily monitor the depth of the applied insulation without having to crawl over the insultion and measure as a check. Insulation will settle somewhat even for a short time after install so you can monitor what it ends up at after settlement.

XXXXXXXX

I don't know about all those rules and regs you mentioned. The old house was built by two brothers. Really rough old block house. I cleaned it up, moved walls, added walls, ....... but didn't add any overhead insulation. Didn't even think about doing it when I replaced all the duct work. Should have done it right after tha, but didn't. I have serious doubts if the existing insulation is even R20. Guy that came today looked professional, even had an "LLC" on his business card! Said he could bring it up to R38 for $850. Didn't ask him what he thought it was right now.

Gonna call him back tonight and ask him if that is/was his best price. Maybe he'll come down 50 or 100 and I'll have it done next week.

Lee

NW FL

 

[MrJT]

+1 USAF385. The paper insullation can be a fire hazard.

 

[Capt Steve]

When our home was a year old we had a standard inspection to enumerate any flaws the builder was obligated to repair. There wasn't much but one area of the attic needed some additional insulation. I had elected not to pay the builder an extra $850 to insulate our garage when we built. That was a big mistake as the garage got unbearably hot in the summer.

When the crew came out to spray in a little more insulation up into the attic I took El Jefe aside and explained that: #1 - I would like my garage insulated to R-38, that#2 - I had hundred dollar bills in my pocket and #3 - that I did not need "any receipt". Thirty minutes and a couple of hundred dollars later I had two feet of fiberglass insulation blown in. The garage stays much cooler. It never fails to amaze me how speaking a little Spanish can pay big dividends. (o;

 

[Senior Citizen]

I was up in the attic a little while ago looking for bare spots and taking pix for reference if I pay to have it done. I thought it was overly hot and then it dawned on me that the gable exhaust fan wasn't running. Then I got to thinking I couldn't remembered the last time I heard it running. DANG! Now I've got to go back up early in the morning and take it out and go to Lowes and get a new one. That'll be another 100 for a 1600 CFM'er.

I need to sweat off a few pounds anyway!

SC