Barrel liners

[Pig Hunter]

Since it has gotten so difficult to find anyone to re-bore and re-rifle revolver barrels of late, does anyone have experience trying to reline barrels? I have a 3.5" M-27 barrel and want to make it into a .44 or .45. My main question is will putting in a thin liner work, or do I use a liner the full diameter, thread it for the barrel shank and use the old barrel as a shroud, as in the old Dan Wesson system? If I use the old barrel to create a shroud, do I want to have a nut at the muzzle to tension it, or attach it to the barrel with solder, epoxy, etc. ? Or will it end up being more work than it is worth and just finding the right caliber barrel and cutting it down way more time efficient? I'm just wanting input from those of you that have tried something like this so I don't have to try to reinvent the wheel and end up with a flat! Thanks much, Mark

 

[RMFnLA]

Finding the right caliber (and length, if possible) barrel is much easier than re-bore or installing a liner.

The markings will be correct as well.

 

[colt_saa]

That sounds like lots of work.

Can we presume you are talking about a 44 Special sleeved barrel and not 44 Magnum?

I am not even sure if that is possible. Or safe

Have you considered looking for one of the left over 3" barrels from Lew Horton's run from about 11-12 years ago? He did Model 24s, 25s and 29s

 

[one eye joe]

Since it has gotten so difficult to find anyone to re-bore and re-rifle revolver barrels of late, does anyone have experience trying to reline barrels? I have a 3.5" M-27 barrel and want to make it into a .44 or .45. My main question is will putting in a thin liner work, or do I use a liner the full diameter, thread it for the barrel shank and use the old barrel as a shroud, as in the old Dan Wesson system? If I use the old barrel to create a shroud, do I want to have a nut at the muzzle to tension it, or attach it to the barrel with solder, epoxy, etc. ? Or will it end up being more work than it is worth and just finding the right caliber barrel and cutting it down way more time efficient? I'm just wanting input from those of you that have tried something like this so I don't have to try to reinvent the wheel and end up with a flat! Thanks much, Mark

HI MARK........

SAVE YOURSELF A LOT OF TIME AND AGGRAVATION. BUY A BARREL OF THE CORRECT CALIBER, CUT IT TO LENGTH, CROWN IT, AND MOUNT A NEW SIGHT. INSTALL IT ON YOUR FRAME, AND YOU'RE DONE.....

 

[Protocall_Design]

It is possible to make a barrel liner like the Dan Wesson ones. You would want a nut on the front. It would be cost prohibitive unless you have the tools and skills to do your own. It would be much easier and cheaper to just find a barrel like you want and fit it.

 

[Pig Hunter]

I have access to machines and tooling. I like the idea of the project, but, so many projects so little time. The shoemakers kids are always the ones without shoes!

 

[Murdock]

Many years ago Dave Woodruff of Bear, Delaware used to reline barrels of N-frame Smiths.

I can see the appeal of easily swapped barrels like a DW with the shroud, though. Reportedly the tensioning caused by the barrel nut contributed to accuracy, as well as affording an easy barrel change. Since S&W seems to so cheerfully copy others' designs, (e.g.; Sigma, ASP, Python underlug) maybe someday they'll try the DW approach some day.

 

[reddog81]

I've always assumed most caliber conversions used replacement barrels or had exsisting barrels rebored. How are you going to rifle the liner? Couldn't you just use that method on the exsisting barrel?

Using a liner seems like it'll just add another layer or work.

 

[Protocall_Design]

You can bore out the original barrel for a shroud, then make the liner from a barrel blank that is already rifled.

 

[2152hq]

Using the orig bbl as a 'shroud' is called a 'Bbl sleeve'.
The orig bbl becomes nothing more than a thin tube that retains the bbl contour, the rib, Ft/site, ejector shroud in this case and the front lock up.
The thin bbl contour on the 27 is one of it's beauty points and that feature is what conversions try to keep. Simply replaceing the bbl w/a 29 ends up w/a heavy bbl unless you can find a Mtn bbl. But then the rib checkering is gone too.

The 'new bbl' is some times made from scratch from a section of bbl blank.
Turned down, threaded for the frame. It is an entire bbl in itself including the forcing cone, threads and a shoulder to abut the frame.
The length is turned a suitable dia to match what ever size the old bbl has been bore out to.
That is determined by some machining experience.
You want the new bbl to be as large in dia as possible,,it has to be able to be a stand alone bbl in itself as far as strength. The old bbl as a shroud will provide no strength to the assembly.
Boring out the old bbl as large as possible w/o running into the problems of ringing the outside of the bbl if you get it too thin, ect are the things experience tells you.

The old bbl will have it's threaded shank cut and removed as it will not be needed. Just that portion from the front of the frame forward.
A nice slip fit over the new bbl is best and attachment can be with either epoxy or lately 'smiths are using Locktite Bearing & Shaft (#602?) for bbl liners and jobs like this.

The shroud is installed with the new bbl already setup in the frame. So carefully do that so no Locktite or glue seals the threads on the new bbl to the frame.
Trim the muzzle overhang and refit the cyl gap, ect and you are back in biz.


Another way to that 'new bbl' is to use an old takeoff bbl from the same frame gun in the right caliber. No need to turn threads and fit, ect.
Just turn betw centers and remove the bulk of the contour, rib, shroud ect and leave yourself with that straight tube of a bbl again with the threaded section already done for you.

You can back it up any amt you want to allow for adj of cyl gap, end shake adj, or recut forcing cone by turning the shoulder off a few .000.
Saves a lot of work and usable clean bore bbls are often available that are less than pretty on the outside, have already been cut or reblued, ect. Perfect for this project.
You just need an exc bore and threads and long enough for your project and for the right frame size.

I see this as a better alternative than a full length liner in the orig bbl. A few of those I've seen off center, crack, loose, ect.
Of course workmanship plays into it, but the liner can only be so big in dia at the breech and that isn't very big when you stuff a 44 or 45 liner into an existing N frame bbl and then cut a forcing cone in it.
It does work though and has been done many many times with success.

 

[stansdds]

Way easier to find a barrel in the desired caliber, even if you have to cut it's length and reattach the front sight.

 

[keith44spl]

Mark,
There's some of that work going on....
PM me and I'll give ya the straight dope on it.
I've got some drawings for barrel liners and some of the cost of lining vs re-boring.
Dave

 

[steelslaver]

From what I have gathered finding someone who will bore and re rifle a revolver barrel is near impossible. If a guy setup to do it he could probably stay pretty busy, but not make a whole lot of money.