Basic Revolver Questions (newbie question)

For me, I think the revolver has one advantage - reliability. Second on that list would be simplicity. I too am realitively new to guns so I can tell you what I've learned as I've started out. Remember, this is all my opinion and based on my person use of handguns which started a few years ago. I have my CPL but I do not yet carry.

My first gun was an Semi-Auto Taurus P92. It is a good gun but probably a little too big to carry. My second gun was a Revolver (.44Mag). A very good gun but certainly too big to carry. Then I got into the Glocks (G30, G36, G19). The G30 and G19 are good guns and both certainly can be carried. I had feeding issues with the G36 and got rid of it. Then I got my 625 (.45 cal revolver). Again, too big to carry, but a great gun. Then I got into snubbies. I have a Ruger LCR and a S&W 940. Both very good guns.

My personal recommendation to you is to go with the SD9VE as I'm assuming it's closest to my G19. You can and probably will get other guns and you can go with a revolver next. As you found out, snubbies are not good range guns. I'm assuming you will want to get a lot of range time in and I found the semis much better for this. You will learn to shoot, you will get to know what a semi is and how often they fail and you will be able to make a better decision for yourself in the future.

Now that I've shot for a couple of years and just obtained my carry permit, I think for me, the LCR (small lightweight snubbie shooting .38 +P loads) is what I would carry. A close second would be my G19. I really believe it's one of those things that 1) You have to gain enough experiance to be able to decide on your own and 2) You really can't go wrong because having either a revolver of a semi when needed is better than having nothing.

My decision to favor a lightweight revolver is based on knowing that if the first round doesn't fire, I can just pull the trigger and likely the next one will. A problem with a semi usually requires more than just pulling the trigger again. Second, the LCR fits my hand really well. You're not going to appreciate that until you shoot a number of guns a number of times. I don't think a snubbie is the right gun for a beginning shooter (because it's not a range gun and you need a range gun).

You'll do well with the SD9VE. You'll know more after shooting a couple thousand rounds through it.
 
I have heard that a small J frame "pocket gun" is much harder to shoot than a semi auto. Is it harder to shoot then this newer generation of pocket 380 and 9mm semi autos such as the LCP and LC9? For a carry gun what are the pros and cons of a blued gun over SS or aluminum?

I would say that doing relatively rapid fire DA work with a tiny snubbie is something that requires more practice than any semi auto other than the really dinky ones. The long and relatively heavy pull is more difficult to master than a typical semi auto. Don
 
Most S&W revolvers are more expensive, or at least on par with most run of the mill little bitty autos is because they are still built mostly of metal and the actions are a bit different.

I won't say that a revolver is necessarily more reliable than a semi auto, however, I would say a revolver is less fussy than a semi auto. Carry of a revolver can be a bit more versitle than a semi, i.e. pocket carry and being able to shoot thru a coat pocket. Furthermore, a revolver is not dependent on a magazine and can be fully reloaded with out a anything other than a pocket full of ammo and fingers. You do need to clean them once in a while. Anything getting stuck under the star ejector can cause the revolver not to function. Excess crud buildup on the face of the cylinder or forcing cone can cause the cylinder to bind up.

The .38 Special is a more versitle and potent load than a .380 or smaller. A .357 chambering makes a little S&W revolver even more so.

Accuracy issues for a small revolver can be cured by judicious dry firing, then ball and dummy drills. Revolvers don't require dummy rounds to function for this drill. Just load three randomly, fire three and watch your reaction when you hit a dry hole. Then, open the cylinder without ejecting and load the remaining empty holes and try it again. Then repeat the drill.

Some little revolver shooting ills can be cured by changing grips. Aftermarket companies are offering better sight alternatives. They're expensive but could be worth every penny.

I carry a 640 as a backup after realizing that I just didn't like the baby Glocks or the compact M&Ps that much. The revolver, even a steel frame original 38 model 640 is easier to carry and a bit lighter. I carry two speed loaders and a strip in my pockets. I hear complaints from folks all the time who have a distain for a revolver claiming they can't shoot one accurately. They don't realize that they haven't ever really tried.
 
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Since I live in Maryland, it's not likely I'll be carrying anytime. But if I did, it'd probably be some version of the 1911 platform. Why? Because I've been shooting 1911s for more than 40 years, and they're second nature. I like revolvers, but I've just gotten into them in the past year. And there are other semis that are as reliable as the 1911 or more so. But I'm a firm believer that if you're going to carry, it ought to be a gun that comes as second nature, and for me, that's the 1911, just by long, long experience.
 
My wife and I went to the local Kroger food store and guess what I saw? I saw a security dude walking around. Older guy maybe 50 or so. I got closer and saw he was a police dude, not just a security guard. I asked him about concealed carry and this opened up to stories from him about being a sniper in Vietnam and how got into being a LEO after the military. I asked him about guns and such and he took his break from work and we went to his car and he opened the trunk. What was in the trunk.....a pump shotgun. OK great, but what did he carry to protect the store for the bad guys? He pulls out a Ruger LCR with crimson trace grips on it. I asked him why he would carry a revolver over a semi auto and his reply was simple. He told me that a revolver goes bang every time you pull the trigger, if he was jumped and knocked to the ground with the bad guy in a fight he said the gun can be fired from his pocket, and finally he said that in a panic situation when things are happening fast all you have to do with a revolver is pull the trigger. He admits that he had messed up a few times over the years in combat with forgetting about a safety or even hitting the mag release on a semi auto. The man brought something to my attention about high capacity semi auto handguns, by the time you add 16 rounds to a handgun that light semi auto is not so light anymore, thus making carry weight between a revolver and semi auto less of an issue.
 
OK, we know that S&W makes a great revolver. What other companies make a quality revolver? What brands and models would you consider for a concealed carry revolver? I ask because I know folks like Ruger and S&W but there seems to be mixed results with Taurus and no one mentions Charter Arms.
 
My personal preference is for S&W in Double Action, and Ruger or Freedom Arms in Single Action. Charter Arms makes a serviceable revolver and I have used them, but I prefer S&W. I have no experience with Taurus.
 
Another excellent snubbie, if you can find one, is a Colt Detective Special or its lighter cousin the Cobra. They're the same size & weight as a J frame (about) and hold six rounds instead of five. Not a big deal, 6 vs. 5, but something to consider.
 
OK, lets continue my revolver education. A snub nose pocket rocket revolver has a short barrel on it, I understand that they are for close up protection. Now because of that short barrel, does that make the little gun less powerful or effective compared to say a compact semi auto with a 3-4 inch barrel? What about the recoil of s snubby compared to a little larger gun?
 
I would say that doing relatively rapid fire DA work with a tiny snubbie is something that requires more practice than any semi auto other than the really dinky ones. The long and relatively heavy pull is more difficult to master than a typical semi auto. Don

I have severely crippled, mostly paralyzed hands. I am slow and clumsy changing mags or doing a tap, rack, bang to clear a misfeed with my semi's. So I decided to get a J-frame and invest in some gunsmithing work to get it right for me. I got a S&W 638. With the stock trigger, I had to use the trigger fingers of BOTH hands to pull it DA. So, I searched and found a genuine local gunsmith who reduced that pull to 4.25 lb with primer strikes still deep and strong. It goes bang every time. And I have no problem shooting it accurately because that light DA trigger pull doesn't pull me off target.

I also got the gun ported, had the frame lowered to expose a little more of the hammer for more sure cocking, had it ported and Duracoated Gloss Black. I got a Hogue Bantam rubber grip for it (love it). I invested a lot of money in the gun, but now it is my favorite carry piece and I never plan on parting with it.

I have other guns in my carry rotation. My other favorite is my Kahr CM9. IMO, the finest thin subcompact 9mm CC gun on the market. Dependable, fun to shoot and accurate. I also have a Taurus TCP 380 which serves as my BUG and is with me in a well hidden location (read: even T.S.A. might miss it, though I have no intention of testing them, LOL :) ) wherever I go, along with 2 spare mags. I also have a recently acquired Walther PPQ 9mm for home defense, range use and apocalypse gun. But I reach for the 638 most often for my daily carry.
 
I am genuinely curious as to how he accomplished a 4.25# trigger on a J frame, or any revolver for that matter, while retaining ignition and trigger reset reliability. If he can do that, I'd be more than happy to build in a healthy margin of safety and "settle" for a 5-6# trigger!
 
I couldn't tell ya about the ballistics but I do know that my little snubby's a bit snappier than my wife's 66-3 with the same ammo. Her gun is a medium frame, weighs about twice as much as my snubby and has a 2.25" longer barrel. More recoil is expected out of a smaller gun but it's still manageable.
 
Lighter guns have higher felt recoil. Snubbys are not generally mechanically less accurate than their longer barrelled counter parts. The inaccuracy stems from the shorter sight radius, less precision oriented sights, and lighter weight (which can result in a less steady hold during double action firing and a higher tendancy to flinch due to the experience of higher felt recoil).

Smaller revolvers are not necessarily less powerful. You can fire full power .357 magnum ammunition in many Jframes, and I have seen some very small .44 magnum revolvers. My own personal choice is to avoid these, as they just plain hurt! Your choice and experience may be different though....
 
I am genuinely curious as to how he accomplished a 4.25# trigger on a J frame, or any revolver for that matter, while retaining ignition and trigger reset reliability. If he can do that, I'd be more than happy to build in a healthy margin of safety and "settle" for a 5-6# trigger!

1) Practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, then practice.

B) Have you seen the guys hands? They are the size of baseball mitts!:eek:
 
I am genuinely curious as to how he accomplished a 4.25# trigger on a J frame, or any revolver for that matter, while retaining ignition and trigger reset reliability.
I was wondering about that too. If he has reliable ignition out of a snubby with a 4.25 pound trigger, I'd like to know the secret. I have degenerative motor neuropathy and have weakness in my right hand and wrist, a trigger that light would really help. I'm thinking maybe he meant 8.25.
 
8.25 sounds more reasonable. If he can get it to 4.25 I bet there are some S&W engineers that would love to talk to him! There's only so much that can be done with the basic design of the DA revolver action. 4.25 sounds more likely on DA autos like Glock, Kahr, Keltech, etc, where the cycling of the action does a great deal of the work to "pre-cock" the striker to some degree so that the trigger has a greater mechanical advantage and has to do less "work".
 
8.25 sounds more reasonable. If he can get it to 4.25 I bet there are some S&W engineers that would love to talk to him! There's only so much that can be done with the basic design of the DA revolver action. 4.25 sounds more likely on DA autos like Glock, Kahr, Keltech, etc, where the cycling of the action does a great deal of the work to "pre-cock" the striker to some degree so that the trigger has a greater mechanical advantage and has to do less "work".
Yeah, I've been thinkin' of switching to a semi for that very reason. Maybe a 9mm shield or an M&P9c, depends on how the grip feels. I'm just not ready to give up on my 442 yet.
 
FWIW, I vote for what the officer told you. Revolvers will never "stovepipe". I heartily recommend the venerable S&W Model 60. The earlier versions only shoot .38 special but that's adequate. Yes, it's somewhat heavier but less recoil as has been noted. Since it's SS, it's not going to rust. Add laser grips, then practice using laser and w/o. Should you decide on a heavier, more powerful weapon, I heartily recommend the S&W Model 19 .357 Combat Magnum or it's SS version the Model 66. Both weapons are considered classic revolvers.
 
Now more than ever I wish the money that I am owed would come so I can buy my first handgun. After Friday and the senseless shooting I want to be able to protect my family.
 
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