BE-86. What a mess! UPDATE

I have used BE and BE-86 with zero issues in my cheapo Lee powder dispenser. I will say it packs a more a snap than regular Bullseye, the fps will tell you that.
The BE86 for me seems to run pretty clean, so no objections but would start at Alliants lowest dose then work your way up. Their website data I believe shows max load so take that less 10% for starters.
Generally the clinging is a static issue but at times plastics have their own adhesion characteristics at times.
The powder 'mess' must be the powder getting between the swipe in the drum, can you add more tension to the assembly to tighten up a bit?
Karl
 
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I wanted to respond to the OP comment on the recoil of his G26. I have 3 G17s, a G19 and a G26. While I'm no expert and my experience may not be typical, I find that for several reasons the G26 can be a handful to shoot.

Several things, the first is the grip area is small. Not much grip area to spread out the impact. Not as bad as a J-frame but still an issue. I have pearse mag extensions that improve things somewhat. I put rubber O rings at the base of the mags because the mag extensions create a pinch point.

Second is the short nested dual recoil springs make it such that you have to load fairly stout loads to get the slide to cycle reliably. What is a very soft and reliable load that is flawless in my G17 and G19 will not put the G26 into slide lock.

I found that leaving the unloaded gun in slide lock position for a month make the springs a bit less aggressive.

As far as powder goes I use titegroup and get static cling. In addition to the other remedies I have a baby bottle brush that I use to dislodge the powder from inside the measure. I always clean my measure out when I'm finished for the day.
 
I find that for several reasons the G26 can be a handful to shoot.

Several things, the first is the grip area is small. Not much grip area to spread out the impact. Not as bad as a J-frame but still an issue. I have pearse mag extensions that improve things somewhat. I put rubber O rings at the base of the mags because the mag extensions create a pinch point.

Thomas, I tried the grip extensions on my G30s and found that the pinch point left me with a blood blister on my pinky finger. I took the extensions off and resolved to just shoot both baby Glocks two fingered, with my pinky off the grip. I would appreciate further info (a photo, maybe?) regarding your o-ring solution. Thanks!
 
All my 38, 357 and 9mm loads with BE86 have been just chrony test
so I have yet to dump it in my powder tube, since I just fill a small glass bowl and a aluminum spoon to load the few cases.

So far It is very much like Unique for my high and low fps test.
I will get into the accuracy test after I get its speed logged down.

I am happy with it, so far......... no regrets yet.
Still a lot of light target J frame and 9mm to do, though.
Wondering if the cases will get as "Sooty" as the w231 and CFE powders
at the minimum loadings.
 
Ah yes... a new powder measure...

OK. I loaded an older powder measure with BE-86 to about half full and let it sit for an hour. After this time, all the powder was able to pour back out without any left clinging to the inside. So it must have been the new powder measure. I will try the drier sheet trick on it. Thanks for all the replies.

You need to run a pound (or more) of powder through any new measure to get the surfaces coated so as powder doesn't stick.
 
BE-86 is my favorite new powder. I bought 8 pounds last year and am down to my last 2. I use it for 9mm, 45 Auto and .357. Never had an issue with using it in my Lee powder measure. I also keep a drier sheet in the hopper when not in use.
 
Bullseye type powders, as Bullseye, BE86 and Power Pistol, have a tendency to cling to power measures. I use dryer non cling clothes and store them in my measure when not in use. You my require a light taping of the measure when emptying to get the few remaining granules to drop out.
 
I like Unique also , for decades it was the only powder I used for shotshell , cast bullet rifle and handgun loading. In handguns I've used it on everything from 32 acp to 45 acp and every revolver round from 38 S&W to 45 colt. It can be used for them all.
An old Lyman 55 measure will meter it just fine.
Gary
 
It's probably static electricity that's causing the powder to stick. I'm having a minor version of this problem with Power Pistol. A clean, dry artists paint brush will remove the 'clingons'.

Back in the day, removal of clinging behavior was supposed to be cured by washing the part in a detergent/water mix and drying it without a rinse. I can't recall trying it. I have brushed graphite on various powder measure parts to prevent the issue, never tried it with the plastic tube, but should work.

Running a pound or so of powder through the measure is intended to leave a mist of the graphite from the powder coating on the working parts. Pretty much the same thing as what I did/do with a brush and graphite. Getting the graphite out of the brush is a wee bit of a trial.
 
BE-86 is not the problem.
Sounds like you have a problem with your powder measure.

I use BE-86 in everything from 9mm to 45 Colt with outstanding results.
It's very close to Unique in load charge weights and burn rate.

It has become my favorite powder. I buy a pound of it every payday.
If I could have only one powder, it would be BE-86.


.

I agree. I have loaded 100's of 38 special, .357 Mag and .45 Colt with BE-86 and never an issue using my Dillon SDB
 
I may be different, but I never considered static cling a "mess". I have never experience any static cling so annoying that I would not use that powder and even with the "bad cases" of static clean (dry, low humidity, hot weather?) A tap or two or blowing in the hopper for the last few granules has been sufficient. How much powder clings to the hopper ID? a couple tenths of a grain, a quarter grain? Not enough to bother with...
 
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I've used BE86 without issue, but I did find it a bit snappy, I would just back off a grain or so from max, and it worked just fine.
 
Two things:
1) if static cling, not the powder's fault. Wash plastic hopper in soapy water and let air dry without wiping—or ignore it as it doesn't effect the measure and just means you need to wipe out the hopper (I just tap the upside down hopper lightly on the table top to get the powder out).
2) It is bonding to the plastic because of residual solvent. A few decades ago, industry had to replace cleaning solvents and reaction solvents with low volatile organic solvents (i.e., slow evaporating solvents) to "save the planet." These solvents are hard to remove and I have found many lots of different powders that sill have an excess of solvent in them and these solvents "attack" the plastic hopper.
Again, not the powder's fault per se. Take the lot number and call the company and complain.
 
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