Best 686 dash model
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SGT ROCK 11B
Member
I like the current 686-6 Plus. Its a seven shooter.
I got my first 686 in 1981 and I had a variety over the years including a 681 and a 586.
I got my first 686 in 1981 and I had a variety over the years including a 681 and a 586.
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Which is better; chocolate or vanilla? Lol, it's a "loaded" question but many consider the -4 the pinnacle of the pre lock models, for me however it's the no dash with or without the M modification stamp/work.
There's a best?
Good
Better
Best
Never let it rest.
Until your good is better, and your better best.
EEK! A 1st grade elementary school poem I never forgot.
I think you'll find that the 686 or 686+ is a BEST no matter what.
Good
Better
Best
Never let it rest.
Until your good is better, and your better best.
EEK! A 1st grade elementary school poem I never forgot.
I think you'll find that the 686 or 686+ is a BEST no matter what.
I have a "no dash" that locked the cylinder on the first box of ammo (win 158gr .357). My dealer sent back to S&W for a new firing pin and bushing, and an M stamp on the frame. The M model uses the same firing pin and bushing that became standard on the 686-1, so it's no big deal. I have my 686 "M" and its been flawless since
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Yendor357
Member
The -4s. But anything pre lock, just because I like the hammer mounted firing pin and no hole.
ColumbusJBR
Member
They're all great guns. I have a few -6 variants, and if you ignore the lock, they're awesome. If you must have a pre-lock, look for a -5 or earlier. If you want a pre-MIM parts, -4 or earlier. But you'll pay a premium.
FWIW, my 686-5 4" (pre-lock, but MIM parts, frame mounted firing pin, etc…) might be the best shooting S&W I own. It's just a joy.
FWIW, my 686-5 4" (pre-lock, but MIM parts, frame mounted firing pin, etc…) might be the best shooting S&W I own. It's just a joy.
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Rakkasan13F
Member
I have a 4" 686-2 which had been my dad's duty gun for a decade before his arthritis got to be too bad for him to qualify with .357, so he went to work inside the jail full time and sold the gun to me. During the time he carried it, he had to draw it more than once on traffic stops and it also rode on his hip during numerous shifts guarding President George H.W. Bush (Walker's Point in Kennebunkport is in the county where my dad worked). For that reason, that gun is my absolute favorite gun I own.
Objectively, though, I would rate the 686-4 round butt as the pinnacle of the model's run. I would LOVE a 686-4 round butt with a 3" barrel and unfluted cylinder.
Objectively, though, I would rate the 686-4 round butt as the pinnacle of the model's run. I would LOVE a 686-4 round butt with a 3" barrel and unfluted cylinder.
My 686, posted many times on here, was bought new by my dad in Sept. 1981. It didn't like some .357 ammo, Federal especially, and he had it sent back for modification. I inherited it when he passed in 1992. The revolver has had tens of thousands of both .38 & .357 rounds through it without any issues. Still an amazing shooter today.
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I'm kind of new to L-frames...I've mostly collected N-frames and K-frames in various barrel lengths. But I'm beginning to understand the allure of the 586s and 686s, particularly the shorter barrels. I did have a 386PD a few years ago but the recoil was horrendous so I traded it. I recently picked up a 3" 686-6 Plus (7-shot, non-fluted cylinder) and I really like it. Now I'm trying to convince a guy to sell me his 3" 686 CS-1. The L-frames are built like tanks and are dependable and accurate shooters. I don't think you could go wrong with any of the models.
AveragEd
Member
My preference is for the -3. It's the last rendition with a square butt; I prefer that because there is no factory target stock with beautiful wood figure for round butts. I once traded a mint 4" -4 for a -3 just to get a square butt gun. I installed a target hammer and trigger but all I could find was color case hardened. For a -3 they should be flash chromed but I do like the old school look of these. This gun had obviously been polished which I don't like so I have been thinking about having the brushed finish restored.
Ed
Ed
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SGT ROCK 11B
Member
The upside to the frame mounted firing pin is I was told you do not need snapcaps to dry fire.
Sir, You are correct the-3 is the best version
Flash chrome hammer & trigger Goncalo Stocks square butt.
I never understood why everyone thinks the -4 is the best version.SS guns do not look rite with case hardened parts .
Tanners Owner
US Veteran
I only have 2 L Frames, a 686-4 with a mountain style barrel 7 shot and a 581 no dash that I sent in for the recall.
Both are superb 4" revolvers, but I admit to shooting my 581 more due to participating in ICORE and IDPA.
Don't think you can go wrong with an L frame.
Both are superb 4" revolvers, but I admit to shooting my 581 more due to participating in ICORE and IDPA.
Don't think you can go wrong with an L frame.
I personally prefer the S&W's that have the firing pin on the hammer. This delivers more energy to the primer than a mechanism that loses energy in the transition through a transfer bar, or hitting a free floating firing pin.
Having adequate energy delivery to the primer is very much an issue with weak mainsprings, and in cold weather, regardless of mainspring strength.
Having adequate energy delivery to the primer is very much an issue with weak mainsprings, and in cold weather, regardless of mainspring strength.
Birdhunter6
Member
Mine is a -1. It was my primary pistol for at least a decade. I also have a 581.
The no dash through -3 would be my preference. I just prefer the original features. Hammer mounted firing pin, square butt, no lock & no mim parts. Probably just a healthy dose of "Grumpy Old Man/They don't make 'em like they used to!" syndrome, but that's what gives me confidence, holstered or in hand.
You decide what works for you. As stated above, I'm not sure there is "wrong" L frame.
The no dash through -3 would be my preference. I just prefer the original features. Hammer mounted firing pin, square butt, no lock & no mim parts. Probably just a healthy dose of "Grumpy Old Man/They don't make 'em like they used to!" syndrome, but that's what gives me confidence, holstered or in hand.
You decide what works for you. As stated above, I'm not sure there is "wrong" L frame.
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I have a "no dash" that locked the cylinder on the first box of ammo (win 158gr .357). My dealer sent back to S&W for a new firing pin and bushing, and an M stamp on the frame. The M model uses the same firing pin and bushing that became standard on the 686-1, so it's no big deal. I have my 686 "M" and its been flawless since
As I recall, the 686-2 was the first to come standard with the M style modifications.
Engine49guy
Member
Not sure which variation I like best but my favorites not ranked in order are:
Early production with large right side TM just because it's uncommon and cool.
686 no dash 2.5" snub.
686-4+ four inch seven shot.
686-5+ Mountain gun (pre il)
A few corrections, as Alan stated the 686-2 and up have the new hammernose bushing (M mod)
2) The 686-4 was offered in a SB frame from 1995 to 1996 when the SB was deleted.
3) 1998 the 686-5 revision changes to internal firing pin mim parts, that is also when the Mountain gun was first offered so there is no factory 686-4 Mountain gun.
Early production with large right side TM just because it's uncommon and cool.
686 no dash 2.5" snub.
686-4+ four inch seven shot.
686-5+ Mountain gun (pre il)
A few corrections, as Alan stated the 686-2 and up have the new hammernose bushing (M mod)
2) The 686-4 was offered in a SB frame from 1995 to 1996 when the SB was deleted.
3) 1998 the 686-5 revision changes to internal firing pin mim parts, that is also when the Mountain gun was first offered so there is no factory 686-4 Mountain gun.
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