Best Ammo

tarheelexec

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Just acquired a new weapon...a S&W model 66 2 1/2" snubbie. Wonder if some of you could suggest what type of ammo to buy for sighting/shooting targets, etc to get acquainted with this weapon.

I really don't understand the relationship and differences in weight, velocity, fps, copper vs lead, hydro-shock vs clad, etc

Do I use different weight/power for the 38 cal ammo? for my
learning to use this gun

Thanks for any input

D
 
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My suggestion: Don't over-think it. Buy several boxes of inexpensive 38 specials (whatever is on sale), and get the gun a bit broken in, and start to get a good sight picture and get used to the recoil, etc. Clean the gun well after each range visit.

You may choose to never shoot .357 out of the gun. Well placed .38 rounds will save your life. Less powerful, but a faster second and third shot, due to the lower recoil.

Eventually, when you decide what you want for real self defense ammo, buy target ammo that shoots to the same, or about the same, point of impact with the same aim point.

Keep practicing, and you're set.
 
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THERE IS NO NEED FOR YOU TO USE .357 MAGNUM AMMO IN YOUR REVOLVER. THERE ARE SEVERAL .38 SPECIAL LOADS THAT WILL GET THE JOB DONE, AND BE EASIER FOR YOU TO GET PROFICIENT WITH, AND EASIER ON YOUR WALLET…..

I USE SPEER GOLD DOT, .38 SPL+P, 135 GR, JACKETED HOLLOW POINT, FOR SHORT BARRELS AS MY SELF DEFENSE AND HOME DEFENSE LOAD, IN ALL OF MY CONCEALED CARRY WEAPONS---.357s OR NOT. (CHECK OUT THE BALLISTIC TESTS OF THIS LOAD ON YOU TUBE. ITS VERY IMPRESSIVE). SPEER MAKES A PRACTICE ROUND, SPECIFICALLY FOR THAT DUTY AMMO. ITS CALLED LAWMAN .38SPL, 135 GR, TMJ (TOTAL METAL JACKET). THIS IS BEAUTIFUL AMMO, WITH NO EXPOSED LEAD. IT IS VERY ACCURATE, AND SHOOTS VERY CLEAN. IF YOU USE THIS COMBO, YOU WILL BE WELL SERVED…..

I PURCHASE THEM BOTH ON-LINE, AT TARGET SPORTS USA…….
 
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My suggestion: Don't over-think it. Buy several boxes of inexpensive 38 specials (whatever is on sale), and get the gun a bit broken in, and start to get a good sight picture and get used to the recoil, etc. Clean the gun well after each range visit.

You may choose to never shoot .357 out of the gun. Well placed .38 rounds will save your life. Less powerful, but a faster second and third shot, due to the lower recoil.

Eventually, when you decide what you want for real self defense ammo, buy target ammo that shoots to the same, or about the same, point of impact with the same aim point.

Keep practicing, and you're set.

Basically, what he said...

Go on the internet for inexpensive ammo. Gunstore ammo is very expensive.

Try these sites:

GunBot 38special pistol ammo

38 special ammo handgun

Find 38 Special Ammo in stock at lowest prices | WikiArms AmmoEngine

Some of the Eastern European rounds are around $12 a box of fifty. This is for practice only. Service (self defense) ammo is another matter.

Rich
 
You can shoot 38spl or 357 magnum. The bullet is the same but the case length is different, 357 has a longer case. Your gun is capable of firing both.

This is a little over simplified but....
Weight is how much the actual bullet weighs....the part that flies out of the barrel. The lighter it is the faster it travels (fps), the more energy it delivers on target. This isn't always the case but for self defense rounds it usually is. The type and amount of powder used also plays a factor.

Lead is just a lead bullet without a jacket of stronger metal around it. Copper is just the jacket around a lead bullet. Most bullets are lead inside.

Hydro shock, NY clad, hollow point. ..are all self defense type rounds that expand or mushroom when they hit tissue. The bullet opens up and becomes bigger

For range use any fmj (full Metal jacket....copper) bullet will do. Try a bunch and see what you like or what your gun likes best.

This is what a typical full Metal jacket bullet looks like. Think copper she'll with lead inside
c06b8dff1a29191e40e1d2d649a3daa9.jpg


If it were just a lead bullet then there would be no copper around it

Here is what the whole round looks like
027ff1a7a7ce089e737d745affaead10.jpg
 
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Just acquired a new weapon...a S&W model 66 2 1/2" snubbie. Wonder if some of you could suggest what type of ammo to buy for sighting/shooting targets, etc to get acquainted with this weapon.

I really don't understand the relationship and differences in weight, velocity, fps, copper vs lead, hydro-shock vs clad, etc

Do I use different weight/power for the 38 cal ammo? for my
learning to use this gun

Thanks for any input

D

This is a good question, and it really depends on what you plan to use this gun for. Target shooting? Plinking? Home defense/carry?

For target shooting, you don't need any of the fancy hollow point (HP) self defense rounds. All you need for target shooting is ammo such as lead round nose (LRN), lead semi wadcutter (LSWC), full metal jacket (FMJ), or total metal jacket (TMJ). The ammo with lead bullets will generally be cheaper than the jacketed bullets, but if you are against putting straight lead through your barrel (there's really nothing wrong with that, lead is all I shoot) then step up to the jacketed bullets.

If your intent for this gun is home defense or carry, then you need to start looking into the fancier hollow points. This is where things can start to get overwhelming, with all of the options out there. The best way to get started there is to go to your local gun shops and see what type of defense ammo they have for 38/357, and then do your own research on the different types that you found. I always recommend Hornady bullets, such as the XTP and the FTX. In your research, search YouTube for ballistic tests of the ammo you're interested in (for example, a search for Hornady XTP 357 ballistics) and you will be able to see how the ammo performs on ballistic gel.

This is where bullet weight and velocities come into play. For target shooting alone, these factors don't matter, but they play a big role in defensive ammunition. As a general rule of thumb, a lighter bullet well have a higher velocity than a heavier bullet, but a heavier bullet will have more energy and thus more penetration than a lighter bullet. Self defense ammo tends to perform best at higher velocities, but whether you want high velocity or deeper penetration, that is up to your own personal preference.

Another thing to keep in mind about bullet weights is that there will be more felt recoil when shooting a heavier bullet. In my opinion, the best way to pick the ideal bullet for anyone is to buy some boxes of ammo with bullet weights all along the spectrum, and feel which one is most comfortable to you, sight in with that bullet, and then pick up defensive ammo in that bullet weight. Since your gun is a 357 magnum, try both 357 and 38 to see which is most comfortable to you. Finding ammo that is comfortable for you to shoot and shoot well is key. The most effective bullet available is still only as effective as the shooter.

Focusing on your question about what bullet weight and powder to use, do you reload your own ammo?

Sorry for the long winded response, but in a way, this is rocket science. Hope this helps!
 
Thanks to Bruner1981,Arik,Richcapecod,Oneeyejoe,FloridaFlier

Thanks all of you for your quick response and thoughtful comments and advise. This forum has been great for us newbies to learn what we need to know to enjoy this hobby.

I'll re-read all the replies and utilize the lessons

D
 
2.5" snubbie

I have a model 19 2.5" as my primary carry weapon and sometimes a 4" in cooler weather. While you can adjust the sights for any ammo, these were designed for 158 grain. not only do they shoot to POA, when shooting magnums they are easier on the forcing cone than lighter bullets. I personally almost always load 158 grain SJHP magnums but if they are too stout for your liking a good .38+P for short barrel use, like Gold Dots are very effective.



19-4 001.jpg
 
WHAT THEY SAID!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wow - I could have written any of those replies.

I rarely use .357 Magnum in a K frame and I NEVER use it for personal defense at home or in a carry gun. Out in the woods I'll do it but not otherwise.
 
I saw in Cabela's some low price 38 spl 50 per box plain ole 148 or 158 round nose and some wad cutters which would be great for practice and they were not so expensive---I believe it was Remington brand. There was even some Remington HPSWC for 29.00 a box 50 rounds.

As for defense, It seems that .357 158 grain hollow point lead semi wadcutters had the best reputation as a stopper several years ago. No jacket - or anything to slow up expansion---just soft lead. Did not matter much if it was Winchester, Remington, or Federal's HP SWC.

DON'T ever sell your Model 66.
 
The Model 66 will eat anything you feed it.

Cheap ammo for practice.

Pricey ammo for defense.

Watch some youtube vids of bullet expansion in gelatin if you want all the fine details of how bullets act in controlled medium.

But remember this:
Nobody shot in the 8-ring with a .357 magnum ever had any fight left in them.
 
I bought a Model 66 2 1/2" back in July as a personal carry weapon. It's perfect for that purpose. I also did some research on potential problems associated with it. While you can find several (excessive top strap erosion, "shooting loose", timing, lockup, etc.) described, among the most serious that I found was a cracked barrel at the forcing cone, I believe around the 6 O'clock position. In a nutshell, these problems are most often created by the shooter when "hot loads" are used for extended periods of time that exceed the design specs of the revolver. The general consensus was that the Model 66/19 was not designed to have .357 Magnum rounds used that were "hotter" than 140 grains.

Opinions are like noses. We all have one. Insofar as my plans are concerned, with the exception of PD "hollow points", I plan to only use ammo that is 140 grains or higher, which would make the 158 grain bullet perfect. I'm also going to use .38 Special rounds most of the time.

IMO, people who have reported significant problems may have been using lighter ammo and firing a lot of it to cause the damage. They also may not be telling us all of the story. I've checked with another Forum member, whose opinions I respect, and a gunsmith. They agree with my plans.
 
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