Best oil/lube for blued guns?

[rpm2010]

Recently purchased a M19, and would like to keep that blued finish nice for a long, long, time, what do you guys recommend these days?

Had a M15 awhile back, and I used whatever was available at the time over the years, but I do recall on one side of the gun, the bluing was of a slightly different hue as compared to the other side. Perhaps using several different lubes over a period of time did not help it.

Birchwood Casey (SNO), silicone treated cloth, break free CLP, are what I have on hand. Don't want to mess this gun up. Any recommendations to keep a SafeQ nice.

 

[shawn mccarver]

Break Free CLP is a fine choice, but there are many others as well. Rem Oil also works good. I have always been distrustful of the "treated cloth" type products. I have seen some that have caused unwanted special effects with revolver finishes, both blue and stainless. Break Free or Rem Oil and a shop rag works just fine.

Naturally, if all you are going to do is put it up without use, then a weapons grade gun grease will provide good protection.

 

[rpm2010]

Thanks...would that BC SNO qualify as weapons grade? Or would RIG gun grease be a better choice?

Maybe it was the silicone cloth that caused the change in color.

 

[OKFC05]

For the non-moving blued parts, wax is superior to oil or grease for protection and uniform appearance. Renaissance Wax is on the guns you see in museums.

 

[shouldazagged]

Rem Oil is great stuff. I've used it for years. Stays fluid to minus 45 degrees F., won't gum up over time, very little needed. I use it for guns, fishing reels, knife joints, door locks, etc., etc.

I also keep the silicone-impregnated cloth handy.

 

[gwpercle]

It really doesn't matter which brand of gun oil you use , the important thing is to keep it wiped down. Use grease for long term storage. Wax, like the expensive Renaissance wax or good old automotive wax , work well, stay on the surface and don't evaporate and I like it. Makes the blue finish look nice too. Birchwood Casey Barricade ( used to be called sheath) is excellent...seems to be a wax based product in a spray...I like and use this too. I'm talking exterior products to keep the bluing shiny not interior parts lubricants.
Gary

 

[tlay]

The other posts are right. Use wax on the outside of your blued revolver and oil on the inside. It protects better and looks much better. You wouldn't use oil on the outside of your car would you? Renasance wax is even good for the grips.

 

[Boge]

Break Free & Rem Oil are garbage. Avoid them like the plague.

The Military dropped Break Free years ago as they have been bought & sold several times and changed the formula. It was never a great lube anyway and the PTFE beads merely rolled to the bottom of any surface. Rem Oil dries to a hard shellac in revolver actions not unlike WD40. I have seen many a revolver dried up internally and sluggish from its usage.

I use G96 products as their CLP (synthetic gun oil) is Milspec approved & used by our Military after extensive testing under conditions you will never encounter in normal life. The original G96 was approved by Canada's RCMP after extensive torture testing as well in Arctic conditions.

G96 Products Company - We Support Our Troops!

 

[A10]

Been using Break Free for years, works like a charm........

 

[dfariswheel]

If you want to protect the nice blued finish and you have CLP Breakfree, that's all you really need.

A wax (NOT a car wax) like Johnson's Paste Wax or the excellent Renaissance Museum wax are great, but for ease of use it's hard to beat CLP Breakfree.
Breakfree is always at or near the top of gun products that prevent rust, and the cleaner part of CLP will help remove old oxidized bluing off the finish.

After applying some CLP and letting it stand for a week or so, you may notice a slight brownish stain to the patch as you apply a little more.
That's oxidized bluing, and you may notice the gun is slightly shinier.

A thin coat of CLP will do a great job of protecting your gun and that's really all you need.
The rest is just the usual internet arguing over what the "best" lubricant is.

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

I've used RIG for years, including for long-term storage. It may well be, as posted above, that wax is better, but I have solid experience that RIG works. I'll probably stick with it as long as I can put up with the fact that it is grease, and then maybe I'll try wax on a beater. Of course, I'm already fairly old, so I may not get around to it. Come to think of it, though, wax might be a LOT better for a carry gun.

 

[chief38]

I also like RIG Universal Grease for long term storage and Rig #2 Oil for regularly used guns. Been using these two products for 30+ years with EXCELLENT results.

The truth is that almost any main stream - brand name product that has been around for a number of years will also work just fine. I have a closet full of gun care products and while I favor the Rig I do also use Remoil, CLP, Hoppes, G96, Birchwood Casey, blah blah blah and have not had any issues. For long term or salty / humid situations though, DEFINITELY stick with RIG UNIVERSAL GREASE!

 

[Class III]

For long term storage I use RIG grease. A friend that has access to a food grade vacuum packer uses PET (polyethylene terephthalate)film bags and a few desiccant packs for his long term storage.

For short term storage/EDC I use Mobil 1 5W30. If it's good enough for my 1988 K-5 Blazer with 400,000+ miles (The only lubricant thats been in the crank case since the first oil change at 500 miles) it's good enough to protect my guns.

Class III

 

[geddylee10002000]

Rig grease or Renaissance Museum wax

 

[alwslate]

Breakfree CLP. I've spent entire days out in the rain with blued guns
hunting deer that never developed any signs of rust afterward. The
guns were dried and cleaned and relubed with CLP of course and I have
come to really trust it as a rust preventative. Several years ago I read
about a process to test and compare different lubes that used common
nails. When cleaned of the coating that they come with common cheap
nails will quickly rust if exposed to moisture. Coat the nails with a few
different lubes and put them in plastic drink cups with the nail half
submerged in water and the cups covered with plastic wrap and labeled. Test your favorites and see which takes the longest to begin
to rust. Nails with no coating will start to rust in two hours. Some
oils will delay rusting for 24 hours. Some for several months. CLP rules.

 

[tlay]

Ask some of the people on here with pictures of fantastic looking guns what they use. Not only will they look good but they are protected for storage. I don't think that one of these guys will take their gun out of the safe, take the oil off, wax the gun, take nice pictures, re-oil the gun and then put it back in the safe. I used to be in the same camp as the oil group before I joined the forum. I asked the most senior guys with the best looking guns what they used. All of them said wax on the outside. But in the long run it's your gun, do whatever is the best for you.

 

[drinva]

I've had guns for 40 years. I've used many a lube and cleaner. THE most important thing is to USE SOMETHING and care for your guns. Doesn't really matter which you use, in terms of gun oils and gun cleaners, just make sure to use it properly and you'll be fine.

Story: we never used anything but WD-40 years back when it came out. I had guns that were liberally sprayed with WD and let drip dry. These were put in a gun cabinet (the wooden kind with a glass door) and not touched for 15 years! I removed them a while back, wiped them off and they looked just as good as they did when I sprayed them. I did not use WD on them this time, but I wouldn't have lost any sleep doing so at all.

Again, just use something of your choice.

DR

 

[Cocked & Locked]

Break Free CLP and Johnson's Paste Wax work for me. G96 is great also plus it smells good...gotta find some more.

Shoot often but don't carry 27-2

Shoot often & carry often 19-2 and 36-2

Waxed J-frames

Waxed Off Brands

Wax works well on my hunting rifles also.

etc.

etc.

 

[05CarbonDRZ]

Cocked & Locked:I really like the Gold T-Grip with the stags they go great together.Those are also some mighty fine "off brands" you got there.When I see the term off brand I always think Ruger,Taurus,etc not Colt.

 

[Cocked & Locked]

Thank you Sir. I just referred to them as off brands since this is the S&W Forum. I should have said, "a different brand."