best way to get guck out of barrel of my model 63

[jeffrey]

I was cleaning my guns today and I can't get some "guck" out of the barrel of my model 63. I don't know what it is, leading, maybe? But umteen patches full of Hoppe's No. 9 and many passes with my bore brush have not gotten all of it out. Can you all suggest something stronger for this job?

 

[jeffrey]

I was cleaning my guns today and I can't get some "guck" out of the barrel of my model 63. I don't know what it is, leading, maybe? But umteen patches full of Hoppe's No. 9 and many passes with my bore brush have not gotten all of it out. Can you all suggest something stronger for this job?

 

[john traveler]

Since your gun is stainless steel, it is safe to try this: insert a loose-fitting patch in the bore in the forcing cone area. Dribble solvent in to saturate the patch, and leave overnight. Brush and swab out the next day. The overnight soaking should loosen any crusted carbon or lead deposits enough to be brushed out. This same procedure can be used on other parts too: cylinder chambers, frame, recoil shield, etc. Anywhere there is firing residue that does not simply wipe off.

This should not be done on a nickel-plated gun.

 

[ctkenc]

Have you tried using a "Bore Snake" AND solvent a little on the heavy handed side?

 

[ENH]

Try an ammonia based solvent, like Barnes CR10, Butches, Sweets, etc.

 

[H Richard]

Leaving the solvent in overnight as John Traveler recommends is the normal solution. If it is a lead build up, get some lead wipe-a-way cloths, and cut a patch that will just wrap around your bronze brush. Scrub the area of the bore with that, it will come out black but that is O.K., just keep scrubbing until it is gone. If you are shooting lead bullets, make sure the velocity and the hardness of the bullet match, too soft a bullet will cause heavy leading very quickly. If it is lead, and it is really stubborn, get a Lewis Lead Remover, (a brass screen on a specially fitted rubber plug that scrapes the lead out without damaging the barrel).

 

[jeffrey]

Thanks guys, I really appreciate your advice! I will try John Traveler's advice today. If that doesn't work, I will follow ctkenc and ENH and H Richard's recommendations, but I just have buy the stuff you recommend.

In the past, Hoppe's 9 has solved all my problems in life.

 

[Dale53]

It is not a good idea to leave ANY ammonia based solvent in a barrel overnight. That very practice has pitted a number of match barrels (stainless steel bench rest barrels). My bottle of Sweets suggest to NEVER leave it in the barrel over 15 minutes.

Most of the copper solvents will do very little to remove lead.

.22 rimfire bullets are marginally too soft and have leaded many a gun. Most guns they cause NO problems but if the bore is a little rough they can cause real leading.

A few strands of copper from a chore girl (be sure and get the copper variety) wrapped around a loose fitting (or nearly worn out) brass brush with a bit of solvent will almost certainly remove the leading easily with no danger to the barrel.

Dale53

 

[S.B.]

Originally posted by ENH:
Try an ammonia based solvent, like Barnes CR10, Butches, Sweets, etc.

Aren't ammonia based products for jacketed bullets? That all I ever use on rifles I shoot jacketed stuff in.
Steve

 

[jeffrey]

Well, I tried leaving the Hoppe's-soaked patch in the gun for about 6 hours and then used a bore brush and then a patch to remove what looked like lead.

It looks pretty clean at this point, but I will go over it one more time before I shoot it again. I certainly have never had this kind of problem with my centerfire guns!

Thanks again to everyone for all your advice!

 

[hitecrednek]

sounds like it doesn't like the ammo you used and is leaded up.....try a different brand (mine likes federal) and it should clean itself out in 40-50 rounds....

cleaning a 22? you guys must be kidding, right?!

 

[whitecoyote]

M-Pro 7 has always worked great.
It's odor free, non-toxic, and bio-degradable.
http://www.mp7.com/MPro7GunCleaner.aspx

 

[Guest]

Leading in a .22RF is getting to be more and more common with the many really cheap quality ammo coming in from the old USSR Counties. Scrub the Bore - Dale 53 had a good suggestion as how to get it done Right but I'd add a bit of Corrosion-X to the brush or any other good "gun" oil. Next you might want to get yourself so J-B Bore Cleaner which if you use it right will polish your bore and also help reduce the leading in the future. I prefer using the 'jacketed' .22RF in most of the .22s except for my Target guns where I use Standard Velocity which is normally made with lead bullets but it is also a high than normal Quality of bullet.

 

[hammerhead]

With my model 63 I have resorted to using a piece of brass wire to scrape the grooves near the forcing cone.

Copper chore boy threads over a tight patch do the same thing.

Normally I would be patient and break it in with a zillion rounds of plated ammo. This time I decided to fire lap the barrel with the Wheeler kit.

I'm making up the abrasive rounds today. I'll post the results.

 

[photoman]

I used to clean my .22 LR's religiously and then heard (I think it was back when I was on Taffin's forum) that it's not recommended to clean the bore of .22 LR guns. Anyone hear of that?

 

[hammerhead]

When you're getting chunks of lead that are 3/8" long and plenty of them, you have to do something.

My other .22's have never seen a bore brush.

 

[wheelgun1958]

Kroil. Let it soak for about 15-30 min. Scrub with a brush and follow with patch. Not recommended for blued guns. Kroil MAY remove blue. Ask me how I know!

 

[NFrameFred]

plug one end of the barrel an fill it with good 'ol Hoppe's #9 and let it soak a few hours, then brass brush and clean patches.

 

[katera]

JB and a bore brush works, lead away is also a good way to get the lead out.

 

[bones507]

You may want to get a Lewis lead remover kit from Brownells, they even have a video online to show how it works. I have one and bought the adapter kit for 45 cal also. Try the copper starnds first though, that works reasonably well. i would put quite a few strands on the brush and vigorously scrub back and forth and use a pen light and magnifying glass to see the results.