Best way to raise mainspring tension?

[matteekay]

Thanks for that.

I'm also realizing that I have a considerable amount of yoke endshake. I can't actually tighten the front side plate screw all the way without freezing the cylinder in place so I've been running it looser than I'd like. Definitely something I need to fix.

 

[armorer951]

Reference your most recent post, perhaps the crowned sideplate screws (front two) got switched at some point? The original front screw was fit to the yoke button.

 

[matteekay]

I'm going to try switching those around. Otherwise, I have a new set on order so I can file one down if necessary.

 

[Protocall_Design]

On the topic of how to raise mainspring tension - easy way to make strain screw longer. Chuck the screw upside down in a drill press and file the bottom of the head while it's spinning. Do a little, try it, do some more, etc. till you get what you want.

 

[chief38]

Introduce it to a Female model.

 

[matteekay]

BOOOOOOOOO.

Okay, I laughed.

 

[Protocall_Design]

"...easy way to make strain screw longer."

You meant to say "shorter", didn't you? Shortening (filing) the screw will lessen the tension on the spring.

No- I meant longer. By filing the underside of the head, the screw will go in further, thus putting MORE tension on the spring.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Introduce it to a Female model.

By the way - for those who don't know... revolvers are female and autos are male. It's simple anatomy... a revolver has more holes.

 

[armorer951]

Well, I obviously didn't read your post thoroughly or correctly. I'll blame it on old age I suppose.

 

[Protocall_Design]

None of us is getting any younger.Besides, I have yet to meet anyone who is so good they can go through life without making a small error of some kind occasionally. I know I can't.

 

[matteekay]

Updates:

- The sideplate screws had been mixed up. Must have happened a while ago, too. Anyhow, flipped them around and now I can crank down the front screw without it clamping on the yoke.
- I used a set screw and upped the draw weight to 9lbs 5oz. Honestly, it doesn't feel much heavier than it did in the high sevens and it should ensure ignition with factory ammo.
- I have the yoke and cylinder disassembled in anticipation of endshake bearings arriving tomorrow (thanks, Brownells!).

My only question now is whether or not I should install the (slightly) extended Power Custom hammer nose I ordered. I don't think there would be a concern with piercing primers but I'll have to take a look.

Thanks for all the help so far!

 

[franzas]

There is some good information in this thread. I am having light strikes in 2 of my Ks. Thank y'all for the solutions.

 

[series guy]

All this is good information but it reinforces the need to thoroughly check the gun before applying band-aid type fixes. The real problem was the mixed up side plate screws letting the crane and cylinder move forward until the cylinder contacted the barrel. So basically any change of mainspring, strain screw, rebound spring, or hammer nose were not necessary if the gun functioned 100% before. If one or more of these fixes were applied there was a very good chance that there would have been problems cycling the gun in D/A part way through the next match due to lead and fouling on the face of the cylinder. Not meant to point fingers just pointing out how important it is to start with the basics when diagnosing a problem.

 

[matteekay]

All this is good information but it reinforces the need to thoroughly check the gun before applying band-aid type fixes. The real problem was the mixed up side plate screws letting the crane and cylinder move forward until the cylinder contacted the barrel. So basically any change of mainspring, strain screw, rebound spring, or hammer nose were not necessary if the gun functioned 100% before. If one or more of these fixes were applied there was a very good chance that there would have been problems cycling the gun in D/A part way through the next match due to lead and fouling on the face of the cylinder. Not meant to point fingers just pointing out how important it is to start with the basics when diagnosing a problem.

Sorry, but... No. I still have a fair amount of endshake with the correct screws in the correct place.

Edit: Don't want to sound too harsh. Your point is valid, but that screw was not at all the cause of my issues.