binding cylinder
- Thread starter bummer
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Well, here's a wild guess: How much end shake does it have?
1. Clean the gun
2. push the cylinder forward and measure the barrel/cylinder (B/C) gap
3. puch the cylinder back and measure the B/C gap
4. The difference is the endshake and should only be 2 or 3 thousandths max
1. Clean the gun
2. push the cylinder forward and measure the barrel/cylinder (B/C) gap
3. puch the cylinder back and measure the B/C gap
4. The difference is the endshake and should only be 2 or 3 thousandths max
Check under the extractor star for residue build-up, that can cause it to bind.
Sparks
Member
Well, endshake is one of those things that should be checked in general, but it is not specifically related to cylinder binding unless it is unusually large. I would venture to guess that the cylinder to f/c gap is too small, which binds up cylinder rotation after a few rounds are fired. f/c gap, checked with cylinder held forward, should be at least .005". Also check the condition of your forcing cone. It should be very smooth, especially when shooting lead.
Sparks
Sparks
This is one of those things that really needs to be checked by a gunsmith (or the factory) in order to really (and properly) diagnose the reason (or reasons) for it happening.
Inconsistent or rough cylinder rotation (called cylinder cramp by S&W) can result from an improper yoke line up; a bent or loose extractor rod; or even dirt under the extractor star.
Rough DA might also mean the cylinder might be binding at the yoke bearings.
Is it the cylinder rotation or the trigger pull giving you this feeling, though?
Stacking in the DA trigger stroke and a slow trigger recovery (reset) can sometimes indicate a long ratchet condition exists. The extractor was originally cut with one (or more) of the extractor's ratchets left a bit too long. If an oversize hand has ever been installed after it left the factory it could result in a long ratchet condition.
Endshake cylinder can also create cylinder bind, rough DA and even light strikes.
Maybe the cylinder gap is too tight (and lead buildup is becoming a problem).
How long has this been happening? Was it noticeable all the time you've owned it? Maybe the original hammer sear was overcut just a bit. That could cause rough DA (and requires a new sear be fitted).
While some of these conditions might be more commonly encountered than some others, it would certainly seem reasonable to take the revolver to a licensed gunsmith and have it inspected. Beats guessing.
Maybe it'll be something as easy as a really dirty gun inside ... or maybe you'll need a new part (or more) fitted ... or maybe a repair is needed to an existing part.
I'm certainly not an expert (nor a gunsmith or factory technician). Just a retired LE armorer who went through a revolver armorer class. It convinced me to approach such things cautiously, and to always work on the less expensive part first.
I'm on more familiar ground with pistols.
Some folks like to fiddle around and tinker with firearms rather than taking them to a gunsmith. Those are the folks who prefer to avoid gunsmiths who may charge more if they find out the owner tried to 'fix it' first.
Hey Sparks, nice to see you in the forums. I haven't just missed seeing you post in other threads, have I?
I'm finally retired and getting ready to start seriously looking around the Pacific Northwest for a retirement property.
Inconsistent or rough cylinder rotation (called cylinder cramp by S&W) can result from an improper yoke line up; a bent or loose extractor rod; or even dirt under the extractor star.
Rough DA might also mean the cylinder might be binding at the yoke bearings.
Is it the cylinder rotation or the trigger pull giving you this feeling, though?
Stacking in the DA trigger stroke and a slow trigger recovery (reset) can sometimes indicate a long ratchet condition exists. The extractor was originally cut with one (or more) of the extractor's ratchets left a bit too long. If an oversize hand has ever been installed after it left the factory it could result in a long ratchet condition.
Endshake cylinder can also create cylinder bind, rough DA and even light strikes.
Maybe the cylinder gap is too tight (and lead buildup is becoming a problem).
How long has this been happening? Was it noticeable all the time you've owned it? Maybe the original hammer sear was overcut just a bit. That could cause rough DA (and requires a new sear be fitted).
While some of these conditions might be more commonly encountered than some others, it would certainly seem reasonable to take the revolver to a licensed gunsmith and have it inspected. Beats guessing.
Maybe it'll be something as easy as a really dirty gun inside ... or maybe you'll need a new part (or more) fitted ... or maybe a repair is needed to an existing part.
I'm certainly not an expert (nor a gunsmith or factory technician). Just a retired LE armorer who went through a revolver armorer class. It convinced me to approach such things cautiously, and to always work on the less expensive part first.
I'm on more familiar ground with pistols.Some folks like to fiddle around and tinker with firearms rather than taking them to a gunsmith. Those are the folks who prefer to avoid gunsmiths who may charge more if they find out the owner tried to 'fix it' first.
Hey Sparks, nice to see you in the forums. I haven't just missed seeing you post in other threads, have I?
I'm finally retired and getting ready to start seriously looking around the Pacific Northwest for a retirement property.
Aussie44
Member
Aussie44
Member
I use a Yoke/Crane alignment tool.
Takes all the guess work out
BROWNELLS : BROWNELLS : YOKE/CRANE ALIGNMENT TOOL - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools
Ken
Takes all the guess work out
BROWNELLS : BROWNELLS : YOKE/CRANE ALIGNMENT TOOL - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools
Ken
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