bodyguard 380 frame rails

Fastbolt, thanks for all the info, it was very good reading. I have had a previous BG380 and sold it. My mistake so I purchased another one Love the gun. I have experienced 0 firing problems with both of mine BG380's. But that being said I will replace the firing pin with one from Galloway Precision when it comes available, course I will keep the original for warranty work if anything else ever goes wrong with the gun. I have no problem with any MIM parts Ruger has proven that MIM parts work well several years ago. I polished my MIM barrel up and it looks great, I appreciate the info on the SS and Blued frame rails. Mine has the Carbon frame rails. I will never make the mistake of trading this one off for another gun, I missed it to much when it was gone.
 
Oldtrader3, I used Remington fmj 95 gr the first time I took the gun to range and didn't have any issues. Yesterday I was shooting RWS fmj 95 gr and S&B fmj 95 gr when I had so many fail-to-fire issues.
Btw my gun s/n is KAFxxxx and it has coated rails.
 
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Oldtrader3, I used Remington fmj 95 gr the first time I took the gun to range and didn't have any issues. Yesterday I was shooting RWS fmj 95 gr and S&B fmj 95 gr when I had so many fail-to-fire issues.
Btw my gun s/n is KAFxxxx and it has coated rails.

If it runs like it should with some ammo, but not with others ... that's possibly a hint. ;)

No way to know what's going on with your particular pistol, not without being able to examine it, but light-strikes can often be caused by contaminated firing pin channels and ammunition issues.

Contaminated firing pin channels can happen when some owners/users get a little exuberant on their cleaning & lubrication practices, introducing excessive liquids to places where they can run into the firing pin channel (and from which they can't easily run back out of).

I dislike using aerosol cleaning products which can similarly force contaminants, debris, fouling & such into places ... or, introduce condensation which can become trapped (using an air compressor can sometimes create this issue).

The ammunition influence is most easily checked by using something made by one of the major American ammo manufacturers in your gun, to establish a baseline of performance and reliability (since that's what the company says they use for test-fire).

As a firearms owner, LE instructor & armorer for some different makes/models of pistols I've certainly had more than ample opportunity to experience and witness ammo-related functioning issues.

I don't like to throw stones at particular ammo companies, but consider what the big gun companies typically tell armorers in factory armorer classes about suspected ammo-related functioning issues, which is to try (and use) different ammo if problems are encountered in one or more brands/types.

It's not uncommon to hear of some foreign produced ammo to have harder primers than those used in some American ammo ... although primer quality and sensitivity may seem to be a bit variable at one time or another, especially when you get into the budget lines. Some companies advertise more sensitive primers in some of their product lines, and you can hear of some large LE/Gov bids listing such things in their specifications (along with other specifications they may desire, of course).

I know ammo prices are out-of-sight and availability is really tight right now, but there are some foreign-produced and "budget" American produced ammo lines from smaller ammo companies that I wouldn't use in my own guns even if they were given to me as a gift.

Even the big names can produce some occasional ammo lots with QC issues, and the less expensive budget lines typically cost less for good reason (less expensive components may mean things like less sensitive primers, dirtier burning propellents, no case mouth or primer pocket sealants).

I've seen a lot of the Winchester flat nose FMJ used for quals & practice in the BG380's & LCP's owned and used by our folks (and some other, older .380's, of course), and more recently the Speer 90gr GSHP. One guy has had good luck with the Hornady Critical Defense in his BG380.

If it were me, I'd try some other American offerings from the big names, and some JHP loads from them, as well, and see how they work.
 
Fastbolt, thanks for the excellent advice and info! I dont have much experience with firearms and ammo, even tho I started hunting when I was about 10 years old. I just started shooting again when I had an opportunity to take a friend's place in a CCL class. So I pulled out my older guns that I had neglected for some years, cleaned them up, purchased a couple of new ones, and got back into shooting again more as a hobby than anything else.

I will take your advice and return to the range with the same ammo I used the first time out where I didnt have any FTF issues. I was also using some Monach without any problems. I was wondering if the primers could be the issue because of a difference in the construction or gauge of metal.

Another point that you mentioned was in regard to cleaning. Maybe I am making a mistake trying to clean out the firing pin channel. I have been spraying some cleaner/degreasers and allowing it to soak. Then after cleaning i put a drop of Hoppe gun oil on the back side of pin and allow it to drain into channel. I guess the oil could be causing the pin to drag in the channel. What is your suggested method for cleaning the pin if anything?

Thanks,
John P.
 
Fastbolt, thanks for the excellent advice and info! I dont have much experience with firearms and ammo, even tho I started hunting when I was about 10 years old. I just started shooting again when I had an opportunity to take a friend's place in a CCL class. So I pulled out my older guns that I had neglected for some years, cleaned them up, purchased a couple of new ones, and got back into shooting again more as a hobby than anything else.

I will take your advice and return to the range with the same ammo I used the first time out where I didnt have any FTF issues. I was also using some Monach without any problems. I was wondering if the primers could be the issue because of a difference in the construction or gauge of metal.

Another point that you mentioned was in regard to cleaning. Maybe I am making a mistake trying to clean out the firing pin channel. I have been spraying some cleaner/degreasers and allowing it to soak. Then after cleaning i put a drop of Hoppe gun oil on the back side of pin and allow it to drain into channel. I guess the oil could be causing the pin to drag in the channel. What is your suggested method for cleaning the pin if anything?

Thanks,
John P.

If your BG380 feeds, fires and functions as designed when you use ammo made by one or another of the big American ammo makers, but not when you use bargain ammo made by a smaller company or a foreign one ... you have to decide for yourself which ammo you'd rather use.

When I reach for practice/training/carry ammo, I prefer to reach for something made by one or more of the bigger companies like Winchester, Remington, Speer or Federal.

Sure, I've used my fair share of other "less costly" foreign produced ammo over the years (and remanufactured ammo, etc), especially when I was younger and buying more of my own ammo, and I developed my own experiences and opinions about whether it was worth saving the money. ;) I've carefully listened to the experiences of many other armorers, firearms instructors, repair techs, armorer instructors, factory reps, etc, too.

Sometimes a "gun problem" might actually be a problem with a particular gun ... but much more often it's something caused either by the shooter/owner (grip technique and maintenance "practices"), or the ammo.

Don't oil the firing pin in your BG380. Aside from the potential problem that can result from the thicker oil interfering with the firing pin's movement, oil can also attract fouling, debris, grit and any other contaminants, and may eventually congeal inside the firing pin channel. It can start to interfere with the freedom of movement of the firing pin (especially as it fills the firing pin coils). I've lost count of the number of 3rd gen duty guns which exhibited light strikes (or no sign of a firing pin hit at all :eek: ) when the firing pin channel contained accumulated fouling, debris & sludge that gummed up everything.

Smaller hammer-fired guns have smaller main springs (hammer springs), and if you start to introduce unfavorable conditions like hard-primers and/or contaminated firing pin channels, you may compromise the desired optimal functioning of the gun to operate the way it was designed.

If you start to experience problems even with good quality ammo made by the big American names, you can call S&W and ask for your BG380 to be examined under warranty for the light-strike issue. They'll pay for shipping & insurance both ways. If something requires correction or repair they can deal with it ... including cleaning out your FP channel as part of the inspection done under warranty.

Removing the FP in the BG380 is a little bit of a tedious procedure, and best let to someone who knows how to do it and has the proper (albeit simple) tools. ;)
 
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