Bolt removal

[-BTM-]

I’m doing a full strip for some polishing & rebluing on a 586 ND. It’s been a long time since my last time. Made a new rebound slide tool and got the frame stripped all the way down to the bolt. Cannot remember how to deal with the tiny spring and don’t want to force it.

Any tips? I’ve searched but haven’t found a video or description that goes that far.

Thanks!

Edited for clarity

 

[Shotguncoach]

It's all about where you put your thumb.

I use both hands for that operation. After removing the thumbpiece nut and the thumbpiece, my right index finger pushes in and back on the threaded stud while my right thumb controls the movement from the other side. My left thumb covers the rear leg of the bolt as it comes up out of the frame and I capture the bolt plunger between my left thumb and left index finger.

Until you get the feel for it, I recommend working inside a gallon-size plastic bag. You can still mostly see and any parts that go ZING! will be captured inside the bag.

 

[daveboy]

Are you talking about the rebound slide spring?

 

[Shotguncoach]

Putting it back in requires a small screwdriver and is a two step operation. The first step is to compress the plunger with the small screwdriver held sideways and get it past the first step of the frame. For the second step, hold the screwdriver vertically and slide it in between the frame and the bolt, then compress the plunger a bit more and pop the bolt in.

Be careful not to scratch the frame with the screwdriver. The plastic bag trick works well for this operation also.

 

[Shotguncoach]

Are you talking about the rebound slide spring?

Good point...I assumed from "all the way down to the bolt" that the question was about the bolt itself. For the rebound spring, I hold my thumb over the rebound slide stud as I lever the rebound slide up with the tool and catch the spring with my thumb.

 

[-BTM-]

I am asking about the bolt. I guess most might call it the cylinder release but on an S&W schematic it’s the bolt.

The rebound slide was easy once I got the tool ground. Used a junk screwdriver, heated and bent, then a cutoff wheel for the slot. FWIW you want something about 3/16”OD.

 

[WR Moore]

What I found to work best for me in installing to bolt is to seat the back of the bolt, with plunger and spring inserted, against the back of the frame recess. You then carefully move the bolt inward until the front end can go into the hole in the breech face/recoil shield.

 

[Alk8944]

To remove the BOLT without losing the spring and plunger, after the thumb piece and nut have been removed push it all the way to the rear until the pin that goes in the frame to push the center pin clears the frame, then lift the front out and forward to allow the spring to de-compress. Install the opposite to compress the spring and plunger and lower the front into the frame as WR Moore said. Then install the thumb piece and nut before the remainder of the internals.

 

[daveboy]

To remove the BOLT without losing the spring and plunger, after the thumb piece and nut have been removed push it all the way to the rear until the pin that goes in the frame to push the center pin clears the frame, then lift the front out and forward to allow the spring to de-compress. Install the opposite to compress the spring and plunger and lower the front into the frame as WR Moore said. Then install the thumb piece and nut before the remainder of the internals.

I removed my first bolt just yesterday. I've often stripped S&W revolvers down for cleaning, but never saw the need to remove the bolt. However, I recently purchased a M&P .38 manufactured in 1953. Once I got the sideplate off, it was apparent that the internals had never been cleaned. So, I stripped it completely. Anyway, the method ALK8944 described exactly what I did. Just push the bolt all the way back, raise the front of it to clear the frame, then slowly pull it forward letting the spring slowly decompress.

 

[-BTM-]

I removed my first bolt just yesterday. I've often stripped S&W revolvers down for cleaning, but never saw the need to remove the bolt. However, I recently purchased a M&P .38 manufactured in 1953. Once I got the sideplate off, it was apparent that the internals had never been cleaned. So, I stripped it completely. Anyway, the method ALK8944 described exactly what I did. Just push the bolt all the way back, raise the front of it to clear the frame, then slowly pull it forward letting the spring slowly decompress.

That’s what I thought, but the front doesn’t clear the frame. I’ll take another look. No debris in thre and it seems all the way back.

 

[Vtgw938]

You will find some will come out by holding the bolt to rear and simply pushing the front of the bolt out, easing the tension on the spring as you do it. Others will require pushing the rear of the bolt out first, which can send a spring and plunger flying. Removing the front of the bolt first is always the easiest if the gun allows it.

 

[jem102]

Above all, I promise you the plastic bag is your friend until you have a couple removals under your belt.