Bolting down gun safe?

[gdnagle]

I have more than one safe (no pictures allowed or requested in this thread).

I use 4 floor anchors and 2 side anchors. I upgraded my alarm system to cell (phone) notice (it's $3 more a month) and avoids cutting the wire to my land line alarm. It has a $150 camera to my computer.

I have nothing of value compared to the Registered Magnums around here. They are still special to me with 30 years of accumulation.

I am also a FFL 03 (fully posted):

I'd suggest making them as secure as you can with good records so they become "hot" quickly. JMO.

I have these posted also. They look impressive to others but will not stop a thief from getting what they came for. Not like they are going to sell the firearms legally.

A safe will keep a honest person honest and a grab and run thief from getting what's inside. A determined thief with time on their side will get what inside. Now as for your question you may want to use grade 8 bolts which would have a tensile strength of +150000psi and most of the others will have less then 100000psi. If you have to ask which to use then use the biggest you can get through the holes. As for the hockey pucks will they compress after time with this major load on them and if so you will need to be able to retighten the bolts with time.

Now this is on it's side but standing up it might take a few seconds longer. This is not one of the high dollar safes but a common type.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8ViUdd-2LM

 

[BearBio]

I installed two last year. The prior one is bolted to the wall downstairs. We moved it with a refrigerator dolly and block and tackle (it's in the basement). It had to empty for 2 of us to move it. It is inside of a closet. Est weight is 700 pounds. The other is upstairs and in a corner and bolted to the floor.

The two I just installed are in the back hallway. They are bolted to the floor (oak hardwood) and are underneath built-in cabinets (1/4" clearance above with walls on both sides==a perfect little niche.). Besides, we are remodeling and installing new floors==that will raise the floor by almost one inch==creating a lip in front of the safe. There are no doors or window with a straight line and any ropes/chains will require at least 2 90-degree bends. No fork lift, etc could access without removing at least 2 walls, both of which are load-bearing. We could NOT move these safes with a refrigerator dolly when empty (2 LARGE men and 2 ambitious women).

Basically, removal of any of these safes will require some pretty extensive alterations to the house (removal of walls, etc).

PS: I have nosy neighbors!!

 

[alde]

The deed is done. I tried drilling the holes with a small hammer drill from Lowes and gave up after drilling 1/2" in 15 minutes. It would have taken hours at that rate. I went to the local tool rental place and got a real hammer drill and had 4 holes 4 1/2" deep in 15 minutes. What a difference a good too makes.

I used 3/8" x 3 3/4" high strength wedge anchors and it all went very smooth. Now I just need to figure out how I got all that stuff in a safe half the size. I was finding guns that I forgot about as I was moving stuff. They sure do accumulate.

I would like to thank everybody for the help and suggestions. I feel a bit safer tonight.