Bought A M1 Garand Need Advice?

I should have mentioned the ammo in my first reply but failed to do so. Others above have addressed it. This was a topic in class when I took the Advanced Armorers School at the CMP in Anniston 2019. The photo is of a display rifle in the class room /workshop attributed to overpressure hand load which blew the bolt out the back of the receiver. I only shoot GI Ball or Garand specific commercial ammo. Even so I have Garand Gear ported gas plugs in my rifles. Great piece of mind. Great vendor. Great products.
The CMP class was well worth it and the Garand I built is a beauty with a WWII receiver.

The M1 Garand and Commercial Ammunition - GarandGear

M1 Garand Parts and Accessories - GarandGear

Ported Gas Plug (TM) - M1 Garand- GarandGear
 

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Quite likely it’s been rebuilt a time or two since 1943. When you have it in hand, remove the action from the stock, lock the bolt back and with a good light look closely at both sides of the receiver along the bolt recess and op rod track. Check for discoloration and porosity in the metal. Before M1’s we’re somewhat plentiful many were welded together from demilled receiver halves.
Also check under the barrel where it screws into the receiver for evidence of weld marks. Many Legion and VFW rifles were welded there.
If any of the above is present it doesn’t necessarily mean the rifle is unsafe but would merit a closer inspection.
Enjoy your M1, it’s a hoss!

Rifles with barrels welded to the receiver.........Also had the barrels with plugs welded inside.....NON functioning drill rifles....NOT shootable.
 
Get yourself a can or two of M2 ball on clips, shoot it up, reload it and shoot it… you will wear out long before your Garand will stop shooting.

M2 Ball on clips is very hard to find now..........Back when the CMP was "hittin" on all 8 cylinders. We would go to Anniston and stock up on Carbines, M1's , clips & enblocs. PLUS lots of ammo. I still have multiple 50 cal. cans filled with Greek HXP in bandoliers with 8 loaded enblocks in each one......Ah the good ol days.
 
I shot my M1 in Historical class in my club's monthly Highpower match last weekend. I usually shoot my 03 Springfield but I just felt like taking the Garand out for some exercise.
 
I can't think you guy's enough. I am aware of the M1 Garand, but it is not in my wheelhouse. Online seller showed lots of pics and lots of numbers on all parts of the gun. I have no idea what they mean except the serial number. I should have it in a week. I paid $1,775 so add that to a doctors personal collection estate sale I figured it was worth a shot. Pun intended. I learned more here than all the online research I did.
 
This is a hotly debated topic about whether or not you can use regular 30-06 factory loads.

Most of them are running at near full SAAMI pressure and obviously designed for bolt guns.

Garands are strong suckers but the old ball ammo they were designed around is not running at the same pressure as full house 30-06 loads. When you start to run heavier bullets, it's even more magnified.

There are people online who swear up and down that full house ammo won't hurt the gun.

ME, I shoot 150 gr. FMJs over 48 gr. of IMR 4064, or 168 gr. HPBTs over 46 gr. of 4064.

Period, end of story. I do not feed it anything other than that. I'm sure it can take more, but the op-rod is expensive and I don't see a reason to stress it at all.

That 150gr. load very closely approximates M2 ball, which is what I'd recommend getting ahold of if you are not a handloader.

Correct. It’s not a flat “modern loads pressure” it’s the pressure at the gas port. The Garand was designed around the powder and ammo of the period which was in the IMR 3031 to IMR 4064 burn rate. Slower powders will be at a higher pressure further down the barrel and therefore too high at the gas port, which is near the muzzle in a Garand.

To put it another way, Garand loads should be worked up taking chamber pressure into account just like every other rifle… while also taking port pressure into account. You have to watch pressure at both ends of the barrel.

People take that information and say that since heavier bullet loads “must” be loaded with slower powder, then they aren’t safe to use. Well maybe they are loaded with slower powder and maybe they aren’t, but it’s probably not worth the risk with plenty of known safe ammo out there.

It’s possibly- possibly- just as likely a random 150 grain bullet load is loaded with a powder out of safe burn rate range. If you don’t know what it was loaded with, you don’t know.

The best article on this was published in the American Rifleman in the 80s and written by John R, Clarke:
Reloading For The M1 Rifle - J. Clarke | PDF
It has loads for bullets up to 190 grains, but using nothing slower than IMR4064. The velocities with the heavier bullets won’t be the highest because of that, but the port pressure will be safe.

I’ll wholeheartedly back up the suggestion for Scott Duff’s books, particularly his “Garand of WWII” for yours.
“The Complete M1 Garand; A Guide For the Shooter” by Jim Thompson is also good, with some loading data. It’s like it says; for the shooter and not the collector.

My favorite Garand book is “Hatcher’s Book of the Garand” by Gen Julian Hatcher. The match prep info is long-outdated, but it has history, development, battle use, match use, and care by someone who was there for all of it.
Perhaps most important of all, the book begins by giving the correct pronunciation of “Garand” (rhymes with “errand”). He knew the man; I think he’d know.
 
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Rifles with barrels welded to the receiver.........Also had the barrels with plugs welded inside.....NON functioning drill rifles....NOT shootable.

Yes, the plugged drill rifles were meant to be non functional but some of the veteran’s organizations rifles had only a small tack weld underneath the barrel. A knowledgeable collector told me once it was a requirement from the Army.
 
M2 Ball on clips is very hard to find now..........Back when the CMP was "hittin" on all 8 cylinders. We would go to Anniston and stock up on Carbines, M1's , clips & enblocs. PLUS lots of ammo. I still have multiple 50 cal. cans filled with Greek HXP in bandoliers with 8 loaded enblocks in each one......Ah the good ol days.
The .30 AP ammo (black tip) is even more difficult to find and sells for inflated prices, something like $3/round the last time I saw any. I have two full bandoliers of WWII clipped AP ammo that I am keeping as an investment. I once came into several hundred pulled .30 AP bullets which I loaded to approximate GI ballistics using IMR 4895. Wish I hadn't shot it up. Used to be fairly simple to buy the .30 M2 Ball pulled bullets cheap in any quantity you needed, but I haven't seen any of those for at least 15 years. I also shot up all of those I had long ago.
 
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I have qualified on the Marine A course with both the M1 and the M14. The M1 was still being used when I went to the range at Lake Hurst New Jersey while stationed in Philadelphia. I believe that the M14 forces the M1 take 2nd place as to the second best rifle ever. Magazines are more superior to the clips than the 7.62 is to the 06
 
If you reload, you can't go wrong with IMR-4895 powder* I use 46 grains
of it, behind any good 150 grain bullet* It shoots 1 1/2 to 2 inch groups
at 100 yards out of MY rifle* Your results may vary* I use only CCI large
rifle primers, as the primer cups in CCI are tougher than most others* A slam fire using less tough primers will get your attention very quickly!
 
AC Man, sounds like you picked up a nice piece.👍

I agree that EVERY gun collection should have a M1 Garand in it. I am almost embarrassed to say that my collection doesn’t have one. I have shot them before and enjoy it about 40 years ago. Now days especially, I basically collect handguns. My gun shooting friends don’t shoot them either. This is another reason why I haven’t picked one up yet. At some point, I will have one in my collection because, like I said, every collection should have one. It just isn’t high on my list.
Larry
 
The .30 AP ammo (black tip) is even more difficult to find and sells for inflated prices, something like $3/round the last time I saw any. I have two full bandoliers of WWII clipped AP ammo that I am keeping as an investment. I once came into several hundred pulled .30 AP bullets which I loaded to approximate GI ballistics using IMR 4895. Wish I hadn't shot it up. Used to be fairly simple to buy the .30 M2 Ball pulled bullets cheap in any quantity you needed, but I haven't seen any of those for at least 15 years. I also shot up all of those I had long ago.

I have a bandolier of AP hanging on a clothes hanger in the closet........Just In Case.........My Driveway is long and open.

Don't forget the M1's little brother....
 

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This is a hotly debated topic about whether or not you can use regular 30-06 factory loads.

Most of them are running at near full SAAMI pressure and obviously designed for bolt guns.

Garands are strong suckers but the old ball ammo they were designed around is not running at the same pressure as full house 30-06 loads. When you start to run heavier bullets, it's even more magnified.

There are people online who swear up and down that full house ammo won't hurt the gun.

ME, I shoot 150 gr. FMJs over 48 gr. of IMR 4064, or 168 gr. HPBTs over 46 gr. of 4064.

Period, end of story. I do not feed it anything other than that. I'm sure it can take more, but the op-rod is expensive and I don't see a reason to stress it at all.

That 150gr. load very closely approximates M2 ball, which is what I'd recommend getting ahold of if you are not a handloader.

I agree this is a hotly debated topic. I fall in the more liberal opinion that as long as you keep bullet weight in the 150 to 160 grain range you will be fine shooting commercial ammo in a M1 rifle. I have several M1 rifles, one specifically that I hunt with and pretty much exclusively shoot Remington Core Lokt 150 grain hunting ammo through it and it doesn't beat up the rifle at all.

If reading all the expert internet lore about shooting commercial ammo gives you pause for concern, I recommend you install a ported gas plug. Not the adjustable ones, but the plug & play gas plug from Garand Gear (link below with lots of cool information). I installed a ported gas port on another one of my M1 rifles that I shoot often and it works fine with both mil spec and commercial ammo. Again, I keep my bullet weight in the 150 to 160 grain range.

Ported Gas Plug (TM) - M1 Garand- GarandGear
 
Check with CMP. They have the records for the DCM and can possibly tell you when it was originally sold. It use to cost $25 for them to do so and provide you with documentation. A friend has used this service to confirm that two of his rifles were NM's and shipped in the early 1960's.
 
TargetSportsUSA has a distinct category for M1 safe .30-06 ammo, separate from the "standard" category. I've had very good luck with the PPU M1 specification ammo. Watch Target Sports and SG Ammo...they both carry it.

For reloads, I've found that my Springfield M1 prefers Hodgdon 4895 to the IMR 4895, but my IHC and my H&R don't care and shoot equally well with both. I don't have a Winchester.......yet.
 
My M2 ball equivalent load is Lake City brass with 48 grains of IMR4895, CCI#34 primer and any 150 grain bullet.

My match load is Lake City brass with 46 grains of IMR4895, CCI#34 primer and Sierra Match King 175 grain HPBT. This closely resembles the M72 match load.
 
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