Bought my first taper crimp die

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I use Lee factory crimp dies for all my reloads and like them very much for making good looking, uniform crimps. From experience, I found that the adjustment is done by the general instructions Lee provides, the feel of the press stroke, visual examination of the crimp and what you deem should look appropriately crimped.
For revolver, that's enough, but for auto ammo, 9mm for example, I need to do the plunk test also. I had a batch that plunked just fine in whatever barrel I'd used, but wouldn't completely chamber in my Hi-Power with Bar-Sto barrel. Had to turn down the die adjustment a bit and all was good. Lesson learned.

George
 
Taper crimp dies are for ammo that headspace on the front of the brass. A usual roll crimp will sometimes cause headspace issues. The main thing to watch with taper crimps is that the brass will hold the bullet in place during recoil (in the magazine) and feeding the round into the chamber. If all is good then go for it. I use Lee taper crimp dies for all my calibers like the 45acp, 380acp, 9mm, etc. Calibers that use a rim (38 special, 357 mag, 45 colt, 44 mag, etc.) you must use the roll crimp.
 
Nice !

I have the Hornady set/taper crimp for 9mm and it works great. A little finicky to set up - but once done it's a time saver.

Since I change out the dies set per caliber anyway, I switch to the set/roll crimp die for .44 mag. That works just as well, and great for poly coated lead bullets.

Always passes the plunk test. :)

Good luck !
 
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If you have a set of reloading dies for any semi-automatic handgun cartridge .... I would bet money it's not your first taper crimp die .
Taper crimps are standard use in semi-auto cartridges .

All of mine came with taper crimp dies in the set .

Taper crimps are useful when reloading any smooth sided bullet, when used in revolver rounds , that doesn't have a crimp groove or cannelure to roll a crimp into .
I use the 9mm Luger taper crimp die for crimping smooth sided bullets in 38 special & 357 magnum ... works like a charm !

Most revolver bullets have a crimp groove or crimp cannelure but if they dont ... the taper crimp will allow easy use .
Gary
 
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My .45acp dies are Lee .45AR dies and has a real roll crimp die. I load mostly for revolvers. Also when I loaded years ago I had an older set of RCBS dies and they would roll crimp, also........
 
I have RCBS carbide die sets for 9mm, 38 Sp/357 Mag, 45 ACP/AR, and 44 Sp/44 Mag. The only one that comes with a roll crimp die is the 44 set. All the others say TC on the label, and the taper crimp works fine for all of them. Never had any separation of bullet from the case in semi-auto or revolver. You certainly can (and some say you must) use a roll crimp for your 357 mag rounds, but it isn't necessary.
 
Taper crimp dies are for ammo that headspace on the front of the brass. A usual roll crimp will sometimes cause headspace issues. The main thing to watch with taper crimps is that the brass will hold the bullet in place during recoil (in the magazine) and feeding the round into the chamber. If all is good then go for it. I use Lee taper crimp dies for all my calibers like the 45acp, 380acp, 9mm, etc. Calibers that use a rim (38 special, 357 mag, 45 colt, 44 mag, etc.) you must use the roll crimp.

Taper crimp semi-auto pistol rounds that headspace on the case mouth.
Roll crimp revolver rounds to prevent bullets from pulling out of the case.

It's perfectly acceptable to use a taper crimp on a revolver cartridge. This is especially true (and pretty much a necessity if you don't want to damage the bullet) if the bullet you are using has no crimp groove. It's why every major die manufacturer makes taper crimp dies for revolver cartridges. I use them all the time.
 
Taper crimp on revolver cartridges may not work. I'm loading some 158 Gr RN lead for my 642, recoil pulls the bullets (with a roll crimp). Not totally out of the case but could cause a problem. I've had best results with GI cases as they are a little thicker than commercial cases. They seem to be working. Years ago I had same problem with a .45 Colt, I had to put a real heavy roll crimp for it.
 
Yikes !

Never had a problem with taper crimped 115gn (Everglades) in my 986, and I've measured quite a few. 156gn - that's a good sized bullet (and power factor maybe) for 9mm.....:)
 
I've yet to see a need for a crimp die, as any seating die I've ever used will crimp and seat satisfactorily when properly adjusted with one simple pull of the handle.


With semi auto handgun rounds, you aren't really crimping; you are removing the bell.
 
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There are no rules on crimping. Use what works best for you. Nothing wrong with taper crimping revolver cartridges. I use only heavy cast bullets in .38 Special, 150 -160 grains, and a taper crimp is more than enough to prevent bullet movement even in a hard kicker like a snub nose J-frame.

In addition to preventing bullet movement, accuracy is also a concern when crimping. Take the time to shoot some benchrested groups comparing roll and taper crimps and varying degrees of crimp. I think many shooters use more crimp than is necessary and this does nothing for accuracy.

If you're using mixed range pickup brass, it's impossible to get uniform crimps on all your loaded rounds.
 
Lee Taper Crimp dies for 9mm .40 and .45. Fixed an issue: My .40 reloads ran well in 2 out of 3 of my .40 firearms.

Simple fix! 1 target load for both pistols and a carbine. Worked so well I put them on my 9mm and .40 tool heads when I started loading those calibers.
 
OP, you don't specify rifle or pistol. The primary reasons to use a taper crimp die include-as noted above-bullets without a crimp groove, and for pistol rounds for self loaders. They're also much less likely to bulge case shoulders on rifle cartridges without being real fussy about case length.

Initial adjustment can be tricky but the easy way to get a starting point is to put a factory cartridge in the shell holder, run the ram all the way up and then tighten the crimp die to firm contact. Maybe a smidgen more to allow for spring back. Then keep upward pressure on the die while you tighten the lock nut. A socket on top of the shell holder will do this nicely.
 
.45acp, I wanted to pass the plunk test in my S&W 1955 Target.......


If your reloads are only for a revolver, either taper crimp or roll crimp will do, but for a roll crimp to work, the bullets really need a cannelure or crimp groove. Most bullets designed specifically for 45 ACP lack a cannelure or crimp groove, so a taper crimp is preferred. Do not over expand your brass, you really want that brass to have a firm grip on the seated bullets.
 
My .45acp dies are Lee .45AR dies and has a real roll crimp die. I load mostly for revolvers. Also when I loaded years ago I had an older set of RCBS dies and they would roll crimp, also........

The 45 Auto Rim is designed for revolvers , many AR bullet moulds have been designed and they all will have a proper revolver crimp groove for a roll crimp . That's why the 45 AR set comes with a roll crimp die .
If you want to use smooth sided bullets in 45 AR loads , just use the 45 acp taper crimp die , it works like a charm .

I can tell you taper crimping smooth sided bullets like ,
NOE 358-124-TC GC , a cast 9mm bullet w/ no crimp groove, for use in 38 Special , 38 Special +P , and 357 Magnum loads ... works very well ... no bullet creep with the correct crimp set .
I use the 9mm Luger taper crimp die to do it .
Gary
 
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Set your tc die on an empty case using case mouth diameter specs.
te TC dies area big plus.Good luck
Jim
 
I'm loading .45Colt bullets in auto cases for use in DA revolvers with moon clips. I don't want to roll crimp and lose the headspace on the case mouth but want a smooth tapered case so the rounds will freely go into battery. When seating and using only enough roll crimp to smooth out the case mouth they wouldn't plunk. That is why I went with TC.....
 
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