BREAK FREE CLP

[chief38]

Well as you can see, I've got a whole selection to choose from depending on what I think would work best for a particular situation...... and that does not include what I just keep on the Work Bench (4 or 5 more) for easy reach.

 

[ContinentalOp]

FWIW, I've used Break Free CLP for a long time, though now I only use it for cleaning and preservation, using Gun Butter for lube. I had good results using it as lube.

As far as preservation...My Beretta 92FS spent over 20 years in storage, in a foam-lined case (which most "experts" say is a no-no) with nothing but a light coating of Break Free CLP. I got it out of storage, cleaned it with some Gun Scrubber, lubed it, and it's been running fine since, with no sign of rust on the steel parts. Same with my 642ND.

Having said that, I'm planning on trying some of the non-toxic products available when my current supply runs out. In the meantime, I use nitrile gloves and safety glasses when cleaning my guns.

 

[chief38]

Unfortunately, most of the non-toxic stuff I've tried over the years (not just for guns) never worked all that well. I wish it did, but we pay a price for non-toxic in the fact that it lacks performance. If you find one that works great and is non-toxic, please let us know.

 

[italiansport]

We used to clean around 300 rental firearms every week when I was assisting in gunsmithing at the Scottsdale G C. Our primary cleaning product was Hoppes with a lot of scrubbing. The primary ammo used in the rentals was lead bulleted MAGTECH which was reliable but not particularly clean running. A thorough scrubbing with Hoppies was the first step and we used to probe recesses with Hoppe infused Qtips. I used to follow up my examples with a coating with Rema Oil sparingly where there most rubbing and friction would occur. This stood us in good stead with revolvers and semi-autos but we tended to use CLP after the initial cleaning on the Class III full auto rentals. We would also resort to military grade gun grease if the full auto were expected to get an extensive workout. With some tweaks and special consideration required for some examples this is how we kept these guns in good operating condition with is essentail to have pleased users.

 

[chief38]

PSA NOTE:

One should always wear Nitrile Gloves when cleaning firearm not just because of the chemicals we use, but mainly the heavy metals like Lead and Mercury that are present from Ammunition & Primers. The Chemicals don't help either, but mainly I do wear them because of the component contaminations. I'd still use gloves even if using a non-toxic chemical.

It is a good habit to wear glasses as well. After a cleaning session, my glasses are always sprayed with solvent or oil that shoots off of the toothbrush I use. I'd rather clean off the glasses then get that stuff in my eyes. There is also a chance that a Spring or a piece of Crud will go flying and glasses are a way to prevent injury. Just saying........

 

[oneounceload]

Is Breakfree good for lead removal from shotgun barrels? Been shooting trap lately and would appreciate hearing what others are using as far as a bore cleaner. Have tried Remington Bore scrubber and Hoppes but is there anything better and really works?

Are you sure it is lead and not plastic? The shot tends to stay inside the shot cup until it exits the barrel.

The best bore cleaners for shotgun barrels I have found are non-chlorinated brake cleaner and WD-40.

 

[Mister X]

Unfortunately, most of the non-toxic stuff I've tried over the years (not just for guns) never worked all that well. I wish it did, but we pay a price for non-toxic in the fact that it lacks performance. If you find one that works great and is non-toxic, please let us know.

How specifically did they not work or perform well?

I don't use CLP anymore, but I tried the M-Pro 7 and Hoppes Elite CLP and both worked fine for my purposes. I believe both are discontinued, but I would imagine other currently available options would work fine as well.

My father and grandfather both used Hoppes oil for years and little did they know it contained nothing more than mineral oil. A
Navy SEAL might have more demanding needs, but the average civilian gun owner simply doesn't often need that kind of performance.

 

[S&W forever]

I buy CLP by the gallon. great stuff and its like WD40 million uses for it. I had a fire ant nest the size of spare tire in my back yard. I try it all from sprays to powder and nothing worked. I day I grab my spray bottle of CLP and sprayed the nest. The next days it looked a nuke when off. killed them all, I have no clue how it killed the ones underground. But it was ground zero......... Try it!

 

[chief38]

I buy CLP by the gallon. great stuff and its like WD40 million uses for it. I had a fire ant nest the size of spare tire in my back yard. I try it all from sprays to powder and nothing worked. I day I grab my spray bottle of CLP and sprayed the nest. The next days it looked a nuke when off. killed them all, I have no clue how it killed the ones underground. But it was ground zero......... Try it!

If nothing else, it more than likely cut off their ability to breath - but hey, if it works.........

 

[chief38]

How specifically did they not work or perform well?

I don't use CLP anymore, but I tried the M-Pro 7 and Hoppes Elite CLP and both worked fine for my purposes. I believe both are discontinued, but I would imagine other currently available options would work fine as well.

My father and grandfather both used Hoppes oil for years and little did they know it contained nothing more than mineral oil. A
Navy SEAL might have more demanding needs, but the average civilian gun owner simply doesn't often need that kind of performance.

In general, the non toxic stuff I've tried just doesn't clean or perform as well. I was not referring only to gun products (stated in post above) but for most cases.

Birchwood - Casey makes a Synthetic Gun Oil that use to contain Teflon and it was great! They removed the Teflon and while it's OK, it's not as good as the old stuff. Cleaning products like the old Hoppes #9 that contain Ammonia works great on vintage guns - the non Ammoniated stuff is OK (and safer I suppose), but not as good IMO. Some of the water based solutions I use around the house & garage do not work nearly as well as the older toxic chemicals - although they are much safer I would assume. While we should and do pay attention to health risks and environmental issues, sometimes I just wish I could buy some of the good ol' stuff that worked so well.

While we do need to find safer alternatives, sometimes the end result is a product that just doesn't work as well.

 

[DB404]

Just FWIW, thought I'd add my two bits. For decades I had used BreakFree as a general cleaner, lubricant, protectant. Never had a problem with it on 1911s, M29s, Combat Mags, etc. But, I am now wondering if it may cause problems in certain applications. Going through a J frame rimfire phase, used BF on them, blue and stainless, in the same manner as I did with my center fire Smiths (J, K, L, N, S). Began having difficulty ejecting empties with all of them, whether .22 LR or .22 Magnum (3 ea M34, 1 ea M651, 2 ea M51). It was often necessary to knock empties out one at a time with a cleaning rod (I prefer to not pound on the ejector rod unless its an emergent situation). The guns spanned manufacturing dates from the mid 1960s through the early 90s. This was consistent behavior with all 6 rimfires, with all the different brands of ammo I could find to try. Prior owners of the guns reported no such problems, tho they did say they used the old Hoppes #9 liquid for general cleaning. They reported being able to go through 50 round box after box without any such problems. Tip it up, hit the ejector rod, reload. The BreakFree spanned dates from mid 1970s to early 2000s.

 

[R*E]

I buy CLP by the gallon. great stuff and its like WD40 million uses for it. I had a fire ant nest the size of spare tire in my back yard. I try it all from sprays to powder and nothing worked. I day I grab my spray bottle of CLP and sprayed the nest. The next days it looked a nuke when off. killed them all, I have no clue how it killed the ones underground. But it was ground zero......... Try it!

I can't imagine it's good for peoples if it kills like that.

 

[Horn]

Letting You Know

Unfortunately, most of the non-toxic stuff I've tried over the years (not just for guns) never worked all that well. I wish it did, but we pay a price for non-toxic in the fact that it lacks performance. If you find one that works great and is non-toxic, please let us know.

Mil-Comm's 25b grease. Clean well first time. I heat the metal the first time. I apply and let it set___I gave it thirty minutes and then wipe it off 'till no white shows. Reportedly used on military
Gatling guns. Sure would like some one to verify that for me.
Cleaning weapon after this is easy.