Break-in Period?

Overpenetration has Two contexts , that might or might not overlap on case by case :

Hitting the intended target , and projectiles go all the way thru the Felon in question .

You miss the Felon , and projectile(s) hit something else .


The number One goal is to Not Miss the intended recipient , for multiple reasons . They are a danger to you/ others or you shouldn't be shooting . Missing doesn't cause them to fall down and cease their deadly threats . With reasonably suitable ammunition , a solid hit upon intended recipient also reduces the danger to bystanders from errent projectiles .

55gr FMJ .223/ 5.56 actually breaks up surprisingly well in interior drywall walls , penetrating less than defensive handgun ( or pistol cal carbine ) rounds . ( Still has that muzzle blast going on , but most of life is a series of tradeoffs .)

I touched on this in the other thread about SG ammo :

1Buck is theoretically the best for all around Buckshot , but is outnumbered on dealer shelves by at least 100: 1 by 00Buck .

BUT , if distances will be limited to inside the room , and local Felons don't wear heavy clothing suitable for Montana or Alaska winters , 4Buck will be acceptably effective , rarely exit Felons with solid torso hits , and penetrate comparitively fewer walls than other defense suitable shotgun loads .
 
Break In -

( Presuming we don't mean custom built extra tight target 1911 or such ) , most current era firearms intended for potential Duty Use require little to no break in of the Firearm itself . ( Of course , strip down , clean, and suitably lubricate before using .) If something is initially defective , it will *usually* show up imeadately .
.
However , I personally err on the side of caution as to compatibility of particular Ammunition in particular guns .
 
To be honest, ANY kind of 12 ga ammo will work.... even light loads. Hell, you are shooting inside a house, the noise and flash will protect you. If anyone is still around to bother you after the first shot, you are in trouble.... I have always had a 12 ga. to prop up against the bedroom door while we exit thru the bedroom window... we can land on the A/C compressor and not break anything. I send my wife first (just to be sure).

J.
 
To respond to the original post...I just bought my Sport II four days ago. No probs with FTF or FTE. At first I was not happy with the trigger, but after putting 250 rds of green tip 5.56, the trigger was working just like my Sig Patrol 516. When I would first squeeze the trigger it was very smooth coming back, then it would stop and the next squeeze fired off the round. There was no nervous anticipation of not knowing at what point in squeezing the trigger that the gun would fire. One has to love that. I sure did and do! FYI: I took off the plastic foregrip and replaced it with an M-Lok with a flat rail on top, foregrip. I then mounted an EOTech XPS-2 sight. At 50 and 100 yds. I was hitting the bullseye quite consistently.
 
55gr FMJ .223/ 5.56 actually breaks up surprisingly well in interior drywall walls , penetrating less than defensive handgun ( or pistol cal carbine ) rounds . ( Still has that muzzle blast going on , but most of life is a series of tradeoffs .)

I'd like to see the source material for that claim. Also, there are several different specifications for "drywall" that include certified fire barrier material that's thicker than the standard product. There might be a drywall specification that might support that claim, but I'd bet you won't find it most houses. Multiple walls might help somewhat.

A professional acquaintance stated that M193 will pass through a 6 x 6 pine beam without stopping. My personal testing on standard drywall panels on each side of a 2 x 4 frame showed that virtually any .223/5/56 mm projectile passed through apparently intact and with sufficient energy for serious injury/death to result. The only thing I found that reliably stopped in one "wall" was a .177 pellet at about 300 f/s.

The carefully worded penetration stats in LE ammo information are for penetration in simulated tissue.

And, about breakin. I've been through transition training on several weapons systems. While out of the box, the items might have been factory proof and function tested, but that doesn't mean each and every example is good to go with whatever ammunition you may have on hand. There will be machining artifacts that need to wear in. Sights may be off to some degree, extractors may be overly stiff and the triggers will almost certainly function much better after, say, 500 rounds/dryfire cycles.

Added edit: the term "wet" as used above doesn't mean "dunk the BCG in a quart of oil". I will admit no experience with the flour like sand in some areas of the Middle East.
 
Last edited:
Field strip, clean, and lubricate the rifle (don’t bother to remove and lubricate the extractor pin).

Then shoot it.

33226.JPG


33227.JPG


33228.JPG


33229.JPG
 
Last edited:
Back
Top