enfield
US Veteran
As far as I'm concerned, draining the tank and running the engine till it quits is the safest thing to do.
As to the advice from the repair guy: he makes his living from repairing small engines, not from preventing repairs.
Briggs & Stratton Engins
- Thread starter CAJUNLAWYER
- Start date
As far as I'm concerned, draining the tank and running the engine till it quits is the safest thing to do.
As to the advice from the repair guy: he makes his living from repairing small engines, not from preventing repairs.
scooter123
Member
I have a rather anciet MTD mower that I purchased in 1990 and it's doing teh exact same thing. However, the cause was pretty easy to diagnose, it's a cracked primer bulb for the carb. Fortunately, these are very cheap and just snap into place. If you going into it, hit a garden equipment repair dealer and get a new primer bulb and replace the old one while your at it.
BTW, it's not had a lot of maintenance and has never seen Stabil, all it gets is an oil change every 2 or 3 years. People may trash B&S for making crap but the service I've gotten from that 130 dollar mower has been exceptional. I'm not sure, but it may still have the original spark plug in it and it still starts on the first pull and still has good power.
I've also got a 12 hp Murray rider of nearly the same vintage with a B&W engine. That one has been a bit more of a challenge. The front axle has been welded twice because it's just stamped steel and I really should just make some bronze bushings for the kingpins, however it still drives straight enough despite the somewhat floppy front wheels so it's a why bother deal for me. I also now have an issue with an oval float valve seat on the carb, which is not replaceable and a new carb is 120 bucks minimum. Current fix is a fuel shutoff but every time I forget to turn the gas off it means another oil change. This year it's has been 4 oil changes because of a crankcase full of gas when I forgot, I'll bet the inside of the engine is clean as a whistle at this point. Other than that, the B&S engine has been flawless.
BTW, it's not had a lot of maintenance and has never seen Stabil, all it gets is an oil change every 2 or 3 years. People may trash B&S for making crap but the service I've gotten from that 130 dollar mower has been exceptional. I'm not sure, but it may still have the original spark plug in it and it still starts on the first pull and still has good power.
I've also got a 12 hp Murray rider of nearly the same vintage with a B&W engine. That one has been a bit more of a challenge. The front axle has been welded twice because it's just stamped steel and I really should just make some bronze bushings for the kingpins, however it still drives straight enough despite the somewhat floppy front wheels so it's a why bother deal for me. I also now have an issue with an oval float valve seat on the carb, which is not replaceable and a new carb is 120 bucks minimum. Current fix is a fuel shutoff but every time I forget to turn the gas off it means another oil change. This year it's has been 4 oil changes because of a crankcase full of gas when I forgot, I'll bet the inside of the engine is clean as a whistle at this point. Other than that, the B&S engine has been flawless.
OP
CAJUNLAWYER
Member
Fixed!!!
Took Carb off and cleaned it with gas & a spray can of air. replaced two gaskets-rather than try to take it all the way down and risk loosing all those springs and little bitty parts, I took a gamble and put it back together with a clean air filter and then cleaned the primer bulb and screen. Put it all back together, put some gas in the tank and .....primed.....pulled.....and ureathra!!!! She works!!!!!!!
Thanks guys-now it's off to cut the grass and drink beer
Took Carb off and cleaned it with gas & a spray can of air. replaced two gaskets-rather than try to take it all the way down and risk loosing all those springs and little bitty parts, I took a gamble and put it back together with a clean air filter and then cleaned the primer bulb and screen. Put it all back together, put some gas in the tank and .....primed.....pulled.....and ureathra!!!! She works!!!!!!!
Thanks guys-now it's off to cut the grass and drink beer
Landpimp
Member
a little SeaFoam is always good to clean out the gunk after you have it running.
Spotteddog
Member
Sta-Bil Caje,
It SUCKS for Martini's, but it works wonders for lazy old drunks trying to avoid muscle pulls from recoil starters! I have a 10 year track record currently, of avoiding air cooled engine yard equipment and motorcycle carburetor rebuilds to prove it.
You can trust a lazy old Martini drinker, when it comes to avoiding physical labor!
It SUCKS for Martini's, but it works wonders for lazy old drunks trying to avoid muscle pulls from recoil starters! I have a 10 year track record currently, of avoiding air cooled engine yard equipment and motorcycle carburetor rebuilds to prove it.
You can trust a lazy old Martini drinker, when it comes to avoiding physical labor!
Racegunner
Member
good job!
Attachments
thelostguide
Member
Engine dies
Have no idea if this will help, but had a Mercury 9.8 outboard that would run fine till it got hot and would then die. Once it cooled down it would start right up and run fine again until it got hot again and would then die again. After fruitless tries locally, called the Co. and was recommended to a retired Mercury employee who opened a shop 90 miles away from me. Called and was told it was an easyfix. Took the motor to him and he was right.
Seems a bakelite chip that had electrical connections on it had a fine crack in it. Once the motor got hot the chip would separate slightly breaking the connection. Once it cooled it shrank and reestablished the connection. Hope this might help.
thelostguide
Have no idea if this will help, but had a Mercury 9.8 outboard that would run fine till it got hot and would then die. Once it cooled down it would start right up and run fine again until it got hot again and would then die again. After fruitless tries locally, called the Co. and was recommended to a retired Mercury employee who opened a shop 90 miles away from me. Called and was told it was an easyfix. Took the motor to him and he was right.
Seems a bakelite chip that had electrical connections on it had a fine crack in it. Once the motor got hot the chip would separate slightly breaking the connection. Once it cooled it shrank and reestablished the connection. Hope this might help.
thelostguide
jrm53
Member
B&S small engine
For what its worth here in Ar. 95% of the stations all say on the pumps "may contain alcohol" I had bought a 6 pak of 2 stroke oil for my Echo trimmer and the clerk told me to mix with premium gas so I take it they dont put alcohol in the Hi grade gas. Alcohol will dissolve some O rings and plastic floats I will not run any fuel in my R75/6 BMW bike that has any ethanol in the gas as it will ruin the plastic floats. Jeff
For what its worth here in Ar. 95% of the stations all say on the pumps "may contain alcohol" I had bought a 6 pak of 2 stroke oil for my Echo trimmer and the clerk told me to mix with premium gas so I take it they dont put alcohol in the Hi grade gas. Alcohol will dissolve some O rings and plastic floats I will not run any fuel in my R75/6 BMW bike that has any ethanol in the gas as it will ruin the plastic floats. Jeff
