Nathan Forrest
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The key to the rattle battle is the shooter pulls the trigger w/ the little finger when the bolt is close. Never taking his hand off the bolt handle.
British .303 question...
- Thread starter Plunky McPlunker
- Start date
The front sight guard is the part missing I think & is a common part for the #4 rifles.
Springfield Sporters in PA has a lot of Enfield parts.
Here's a link to their #4 parts page.
You probably need the screw for it too. Not a common hardware size, so buy it if they have it & you need one.
You can pay extra for a specific mfg'r part or just get what ever is next up in the parts pile for the cheapest price.
enfield4
Numrich / GunPartsCorp probably has them to. But I can't get their website to work. Here's a link to the home page.
Numrich Gun Parts Corp, e-Commerce Super Site
Springfield Sporters in PA has a lot of Enfield parts.
Here's a link to their #4 parts page.
You probably need the screw for it too. Not a common hardware size, so buy it if they have it & you need one.
You can pay extra for a specific mfg'r part or just get what ever is next up in the parts pile for the cheapest price.
enfield4
Numrich / GunPartsCorp probably has them to. But I can't get their website to work. Here's a link to the home page.
Numrich Gun Parts Corp, e-Commerce Super Site
Jack Flash
Member
What's done is done. It will still probably clean up ok and may still be an accurate shooter.
In your shoes, I would thoroughly clean it with whatever bore cleaner you have handy. If you want to do a first pass with Windex, that wouldn't hurt, but a good cleaning with Hoppe's should get it clean. Then oil it. Remember to wipe the oil out of the bore before you shoot it. Then clean it again, following the cleaning procedure for corrosive ammo. Repeat often!
doyle01
US Veteran
I got a few and if it is in good shape YES shoot that puppy . That is all I shoot is surplus ammo
Spotteddog
Member
I've got a MkIV with a bore the shape of a hens egg from going too long W/O cleaning at some point in her illustrious career. She'll still go into 5" @ 200 when the winds down and I'm holding up my end.
smithywess
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.303 Lee Enfield.
Thought you might be interested in a selection of British Enfield bayonets that were designed for the various Enfields. The first two at the top on the left are No.5 'jungle carbine' bayonets. Like the carbines not many were made. Below these is a No.7 bayonet for the No.4 rifle with a grip that rotates before mounting. It was not a successful design,not many were made,and it was dropped. Below that is the more familiar No.9 blade bayonet for the No.4 rifle which was in service through the fifties. To the right are three 'spike' type No.4 bayonets all for the No.4 rifle in three different 'marks' 1 through 3. The No.4 Mk 1 is the rare cruciate type spike bayonet discontinued just before the second war and replaced by the No.4 Mk 2 spike bayonet which is the very common one. This one of mine was made by the Singer sewing machine company. The third one down on the right is the No.4 Mk 3 made chiefly by the Lucas electrical company towards the end of the second war. Things must have been at a very low ebb economically for this is a very cheap to make casting in aluminum somehow affixed to a steel spike. Then at the bottom is the 22" pattern of 1907 bayonet for the short muzzle Lee Enfield, the No.3 used throughout the Great War of 1914-18.
On another note if anyone is planning to reload and shoot cast bullets in these rifles they should slug the bores for the diameters can vary from .311" to .314". Older brass is Berdan primed and difficult to reload. In rear locking type bolts of this design there can be difficulties with head space such that brass doesn't last long before incipient head separation becomes evident. The head space is easily changed by changing the bolt head which were manufactured in different sizes 1 through 7. They simply screw on and off.
On the cleaning issue the old Milsurp ammunition had the corrosive primers because of chlorate salts which, as has been pointed out, are only soluble in water hence the advice to use it to clean with. The rifle afterwards must be thoroughly dried and oiled.
Historically the .303 Enfield was a blackpowder cartridge firing a 215 grain nickel coated FMJ bullet. Subsequently the propellant was cordite and the bullet weight was reduced to 174 grains FMJ. The accuracy of even an 'out of the armoury' rifle can be very good with 200 yard groups at 5 inches not unremarkable.
Just some thoughts.
Thought you might be interested in a selection of British Enfield bayonets that were designed for the various Enfields. The first two at the top on the left are No.5 'jungle carbine' bayonets. Like the carbines not many were made. Below these is a No.7 bayonet for the No.4 rifle with a grip that rotates before mounting. It was not a successful design,not many were made,and it was dropped. Below that is the more familiar No.9 blade bayonet for the No.4 rifle which was in service through the fifties. To the right are three 'spike' type No.4 bayonets all for the No.4 rifle in three different 'marks' 1 through 3. The No.4 Mk 1 is the rare cruciate type spike bayonet discontinued just before the second war and replaced by the No.4 Mk 2 spike bayonet which is the very common one. This one of mine was made by the Singer sewing machine company. The third one down on the right is the No.4 Mk 3 made chiefly by the Lucas electrical company towards the end of the second war. Things must have been at a very low ebb economically for this is a very cheap to make casting in aluminum somehow affixed to a steel spike. Then at the bottom is the 22" pattern of 1907 bayonet for the short muzzle Lee Enfield, the No.3 used throughout the Great War of 1914-18.
On another note if anyone is planning to reload and shoot cast bullets in these rifles they should slug the bores for the diameters can vary from .311" to .314". Older brass is Berdan primed and difficult to reload. In rear locking type bolts of this design there can be difficulties with head space such that brass doesn't last long before incipient head separation becomes evident. The head space is easily changed by changing the bolt head which were manufactured in different sizes 1 through 7. They simply screw on and off.
On the cleaning issue the old Milsurp ammunition had the corrosive primers because of chlorate salts which, as has been pointed out, are only soluble in water hence the advice to use it to clean with. The rifle afterwards must be thoroughly dried and oiled.
Historically the .303 Enfield was a blackpowder cartridge firing a 215 grain nickel coated FMJ bullet. Subsequently the propellant was cordite and the bullet weight was reduced to 174 grains FMJ. The accuracy of even an 'out of the armoury' rifle can be very good with 200 yard groups at 5 inches not unremarkable.
Just some thoughts.
Forester
Member
^^^^^^^^^^^
Great post. Thanks.
Great post. Thanks.
Jack Flash
Member
That is a good post! A few comment if I may...
.303 reloaders quickly learn to neck-size only. If they shoot more than one .303 Rifle, they also keep the brass separated so they don't fire the same cases in different rifles. This greatly extends the life of your brass. Before I learned this, I was full-length resizing every time and getting head separation as early as on the third firing.
Re: boltheads in sizes 1 to 7
Actually I think there was a size 0 as well. I thought they maxed out at 4, but I would not argue that point.
Re: .303 Milsurp ammunition:
Don't be surprised to see "VII" or "7" on the headstamp of a Mark 7 cartridge. The Brits continued to use Roman numerals for a long time. There was also a Mark 8 version which had a boat-tail bullet. These were usually loaded with a more conventional powder, which is indicated by a "z" on the headstamp. Many shooters seek out these "z" stamped cartridges, due to cordite's bad reputation for high temperatures which causes heat erosion in the throat and bore.
That bayonete is a testament to the quirky ingenuity of the British. I believe it was designed to function on both the No. 4 and on the Sten submachine gun. The grip had to rotate out of the way to be fitted to a No. 4 Rifle. Snapped back into its straight position, it could be fitted to the Sten or it could function as a general purpose knife (one big complaint about all other No. 4 bayonetes was that they lacked this functionality). You don't see very many of these, and they command a good price when offered for sale. My guess is that they were too expensive to manufacture.
I've never understood why anyone would try to reload .303 Berdan-primed cases, when Winchester and Remington (and others as well) make Boxer-primed brass. I guess some folks just like a challenge?
.303 reloaders quickly learn to neck-size only. If they shoot more than one .303 Rifle, they also keep the brass separated so they don't fire the same cases in different rifles. This greatly extends the life of your brass. Before I learned this, I was full-length resizing every time and getting head separation as early as on the third firing.
Re: boltheads in sizes 1 to 7
Actually I think there was a size 0 as well. I thought they maxed out at 4, but I would not argue that point.
Re: .303 Milsurp ammunition:
Don't be surprised to see "VII" or "7" on the headstamp of a Mark 7 cartridge. The Brits continued to use Roman numerals for a long time. There was also a Mark 8 version which had a boat-tail bullet. These were usually loaded with a more conventional powder, which is indicated by a "z" on the headstamp. Many shooters seek out these "z" stamped cartridges, due to cordite's bad reputation for high temperatures which causes heat erosion in the throat and bore.
smithywess
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.303 Enfield.
You're quite right about there being a number '0' bolt head. I have a No.5 Enfield with a '7' stamped on the bolt head.
Your comments on reloading this calibre are well taken.
The .303 Enfield, particularly the No.3 and No.4, were, and are, an extra-ordinarily versatile rifle. Being brought up in what used to be the British Protectorate of Uganda these rifles were everywhere and used as target rifles as well as on all types of game,very effectively. It was not required to be always reaching for the .500 Nitro Express to be hunting large and dangerous game.
The No.5 is handy North of the 49th parallel, for all game, in a saddle scabbard attached to one's saddle horse.
You're quite right about there being a number '0' bolt head. I have a No.5 Enfield with a '7' stamped on the bolt head.
Your comments on reloading this calibre are well taken.
The .303 Enfield, particularly the No.3 and No.4, were, and are, an extra-ordinarily versatile rifle. Being brought up in what used to be the British Protectorate of Uganda these rifles were everywhere and used as target rifles as well as on all types of game,very effectively. It was not required to be always reaching for the .500 Nitro Express to be hunting large and dangerous game.
The No.5 is handy North of the 49th parallel, for all game, in a saddle scabbard attached to one's saddle horse.
Jack Flash
Member
This is something I copied from another Forum (Culver's Shooting Pages, SMLE Forum). It is not the last word on the subject by any means, I pass it along strictly for what it's worth:
No 4 bolthead sizes:
0 - .620 to .625 in.
1 - .625 to .630 in.
2 - .630 to .635 in.
3 - .635 to .640 in.
No 4 bolthead sizes:
0 - .620 to .625 in.
1 - .625 to .630 in.
2 - .630 to .635 in.
3 - .635 to .640 in.
You have one of the worlds classic battle rifles. It preserved the British Empire till the liberals disassembled it after WWII.
It is one of the fastest shooting bolt rifles ever, and the .303 has taken every game animal on earth. Even today a skilled rifleman with one can give a very good account of himself, and own the real estate for 5-600 yards around, more if he has a scoped rifle. British snipers made some amazing shots with them in both world wars and in small engagements all over the globe.
Shoot it and enjoy it, they are nearly unbreakable. Heed the above advice about corrosive primers though.
It is one of the fastest shooting bolt rifles ever, and the .303 has taken every game animal on earth. Even today a skilled rifleman with one can give a very good account of himself, and own the real estate for 5-600 yards around, more if he has a scoped rifle. British snipers made some amazing shots with them in both world wars and in small engagements all over the globe.
Shoot it and enjoy it, they are nearly unbreakable. Heed the above advice about corrosive primers though.
OP
Plunky McPlunker
Member
Bought all missing parts and screws through Springfield Sporters. Super outfit.
Front sight guard, new screws, rear swivel, and stock swivel (used for my own sling) fit perfect. Amazing how easy this gun was to work on. Only used a simple wedge screw driver.
If you're looking for parts, they are the one's to go to.
I cannot wait to shoot it.
Barrel does not look great, but has well defined rifling. (Did I spell this right?)
Thanks for all your help.
My Dad wants a S&W .357 revolver in return when I can find one locally.
I tried to post pics, but no luck. Any suggestions?
I literally took a toothbrush and cleaner to every metal part, and cleaned stock with Old English wood oil.
Front sight guard, new screws, rear swivel, and stock swivel (used for my own sling) fit perfect. Amazing how easy this gun was to work on. Only used a simple wedge screw driver.
If you're looking for parts, they are the one's to go to.
I cannot wait to shoot it.
Barrel does not look great, but has well defined rifling. (Did I spell this right?)
Thanks for all your help.
My Dad wants a S&W .357 revolver in return when I can find one locally.
I tried to post pics, but no luck. Any suggestions?
I literally took a toothbrush and cleaner to every metal part, and cleaned stock with Old English wood oil.
Last edited:
This is mine. Purchased about 18 years ago for $125. Very clean (arsenal refinished?) and the stock is fantastic. These are pretty accurate shooters. Enjoy yours.
ElToro
Member
sounds like a good rifle you got there. too bad no memories of you and dad shooting it togther growing up. i had none range time with my old man until i was in my 20s and buying guns. im 36 now, now we go a few times a year together. My son is 2 and I plan to take him regurlay as soon as he is old enough to handle it. maybe 8 ?
with all due respect to Col. Coopers demands for a "scout rifle" a No 5 (fake or real) jungle rifle is a pretty dang good low budget trunk/ got to heck gun. .303 brit is no slouch and 10 shots on tap and that SMLE action which is slick as snot that bolt can be run pretty fast. can be relaoded fast with stripper clips.
with all due respect to Col. Coopers demands for a "scout rifle" a No 5 (fake or real) jungle rifle is a pretty dang good low budget trunk/ got to heck gun. .303 brit is no slouch and 10 shots on tap and that SMLE action which is slick as snot that bolt can be run pretty fast. can be relaoded fast with stripper clips.
OP
Plunky McPlunker
Member
Taking the Old Man to shoot it this weekend.
Unfortunately, it has been me teaching my Dad how to shoot.
Don't mind a bit.
He's not a great shot, though.
Unfortunately, it has been me teaching my Dad how to shoot.
Don't mind a bit.
He's not a great shot, though.
