Broken 686-3 after shooting overpressure reload

[soe]

Hello,


I hope everyone is well.


My S&W 686-3 revolver broke after shooting an overpressure reload. The case had a pierced primer, and the blast and recoil were above normal.


The revolver is working perfectly in single action but, in double action, most of the times, the hammer doesn't go back. The cylinder rotates just fine. Sometimes it even works perfecty in double action.


Any ideas whats wrong with the gun?


Thanks in advance.


Kind regards,

GAR

 

[murphydog]

Glad you are OK.

In this instance I would take it to a gunsmith, to both diagnose/repair the trigger problem and to make sure the overpressure round did not do permanent damage to the cylinder, frame or both.

 

[VictorLouis]

...it's a bit early, but lemme start the corn to poppin'....

 

[soe]

Glad you are OK.

In this instance I would take it to a gunsmith, to both diagnose/repair the trigger problem and to make sure the overpressure round did not do permanent damage to the cylinder, frame or both.

Thank you for your reply.


I live in Portugal and good gunsmiths are hard to find and extremely expensive so I'd like to try and solve this on my own.


I've cleaned the gun, and carefully inspected it. There are no signs of damage to the frame, cylinder or barrel. After cleaning and inspecting the gun, I took it to the range and fired 4 cylinders of .357 Magnum Geco 157gr factory loads in single action without any issues.



I'd like some help solving the double action problem.


Thanks,
GAR

 

[kev74]

If you can remove the side plate, you can watch the action while you cycle it and hopefully see where the problem is.

 

[steelslaver]

Sounds to me like the double action sear is sticky. It is the little toggle that sticks out of the bottom front of the hammer. It is spring loaded and is supposed to be held out enough so the trigger engages it and starts the hammer back. If it is sticky and does not go out all the way when the trigger is pulled it will miss it and the hammer will remain in place but, the hand will advance the cylinder.

First try this, remove grips. Spray a bunch of brake cleaner in around the hammer, cock it single action spray down in front of hammer, work action. Work gun as you spray. Let excess dry. Would be best to take side plate off and spray it out then put a tiny drop of light oil on each pivot point.

I doubt you gun is broken. Just gummed up. Pierced primer let burned powder blow into the action. Maybe at worst messed up the tiny double action sear spring, but most likely not.

The appearance changes over time, but all work the same. The arrow id pointed at tthe DA sear, There is a small spring that makes the bottom stay out.

 

[jake1945]

Please DO NOT USE brake cleaner!!!! PERIOD!!!
Use a product called Gun Scrubber which is made to clean guns safely with no damage! Gun Scrubber can be found in most gun shops and on-line stores.

 

[steelslaver]

If brake cleaner damages guns, none of mine would work and they would all look bad.

Besides if you go download and read the MSDS sheets on brake cleaner and Gun Scrubber you will see that most of the main ingredients are either the same or very close to the same molecularity.

 

[soe]

Sounds to me like the double action sear is sticky. It is the little toggle that sticks out of the bottom front of the hammer. It is spring loaded and is supposed to be held out enough so the trigger engages it and starts the hammer back. If it is sticky and does not go out all the way when the trigger is pulled it will miss it and the hammer will remain in place but, the hand will advance the cylinder.

First try this, remove grips. Spray a bunch of brake cleaner in around the hammer, cock it single action spray down in front of hammer, work action. Work gun as you spray. Let excess dry. Would be best to take side plate off and spray it out then put a tiny drop of light oil on each pivot point.

I doubt you gun is broken. Just gummed up. Pierced primer let burned powder blow into the action. Maybe at worst messed up the tiny double action sear spring, but most likely not.

The appearance changes over time, but all work the same. The arrow id pointed at tthe DA sear, There is a small spring that makes the bottom stay out.

Thank you for your reply.


I'll open the side plate tonight to inspect and clean the action.


I'll post pictures and feedback tomorrow.

 

[soe]

Are the parts from newer versions of the 686 compatible with mine 686-3?


In other words, should I buy this parts kit?:
Despiece Revolver S&W Mod.686 Cal.357 - Gabilondo Sport


I know the hammer and firing pin are not compatible.


Thanks again!

 

[Truckman]

If brake cleaner damages guns, none of mine would work and they would all look bad.

Mine too...I buy non-chlorinated brake cleaner by the case......Ben

 

[Protocall_Design]

If you take the sideplate off, you will probably find the problem. One of many possibilities is that the hammer or trigger stud may be broken. A revolver will act erratic and weird when this happens. We can't tell much more without having it in hand to look at.

 

[3rdgeargrndrr]

My WAG is the double action sear spring popped loose as well.
Agree with careful removal of side plate and examining/cleaning/lubing action.

 

[Old_Cop]

Be careful if you work the action with the side plate off, damage can result if the hammer slides up the stud.

 

[steelslaver]

Yes, if you operate it with the side plate off, you should remove main spring and rebound slide.

While it is possible hammer stud broke, it working fine every tome in SA makes me doubt that. Occasionally working in DA makes me believe sear spring is OK and just sticky. A pieced prime would allow hot gasses to blow right in area near double action sear.

Always try the simple stuff first. Sear spring are not expensive. Kind of tricky to replace. But, no special tools or anything needed. Just steady hands and good vison.

 

[jculloden]

Quit shooting the hot stuff

 

[swagmeister]

Just curious? Where did you get the overpressure load; do you reload or shot someone else's reloads?

 

[steelslaver]

PS. Worst case is hammer stud is broke. A parts kit will not fix that. That would normally require a true S&W factory gun smith. Changing the hammer assembly out may or may not work. The double action sear must fit the trigger. Sometimes you can change the complete hammer assembly and it will work fine. Some times the DA sear of the new hammer will bind. Been there done that. BTW the parts kit you pictured has MIM parts and used a frame mounted firing pin. I do not believe the -3 had MIM and your gun should have firing pin on hammer.

Look here for exploded view of your hammer.
Smith & Wesson Model 686-3 Revolver Parts | Gun Parts Corp.
The spring lists at $2.65

I can not imagine there is a law that prohibits sending a tiny coil spring to Portugal

Let us know what you figure out. We will try to help all we can, even long distance

 

[Alk8944]

Please DO NOT USE brake cleaner!!!! PERIOD!!!
Use a product called Gun Scrubber which is made to clean guns safely with no damage! Gun Scrubber can be found in most gun shops and on-line stores.

JAKE 1945: You are full of stuff!!!

Check the label on many brake cleaners and Gun Scrubber and you will find that they are the same thing! The only real difference is that the various brake cleaners cost about 1/3 as much as Gun Scrubber. The exception is the non-clorinated brake cleaners that cost more than the ones containing clorinated solvents, and do not work as well. All organic solvents will damage some gun wood finishes and some plastics used on guns. Most plastics used on guns are not affected by organic solvents however.

 

[steelslaver]

Other than front sight inserts the only plastic on S&W revolvers is the nylon guide piece on the newer J frame main spring struts