Broken 686-3 after shooting overpressure reload

[rct269]

And please don't even think about removing the sideplate until you have been schooled in the proper procedure. And for openers, any and all You Tube videos that show you where and how to pry it off were done by dangerously ignorant people.

Step One: Remove the grips.

Step Two: Hold the gun with sideplate up or down. If holding it with side plate down, hold it over a folded bath towel, and be aware of the fact that a small object known as a hammer block is going to fall along with the sideplate. If you hold it sideplate up, hold it with your hand loosely covering the sideplate so as to prevent it and the hammer block from falling.

Step Three: Strike the grip frame once with a wooden or plastic hammer handle----one time.(You're trying to jar the sideplate loose from the frame, not bend the grip frame, so no WHAMMITY-BAMMING is necessary----just give it a medium whack----and have a look. If it's come loose, a few more taps will have it off. If it hasn't---another medium whack.

Once it's loose, lift it off, and have a look for the hammer block. With any luck, it'll still be where it belongs---and where it gets replaced. Without that luck, have a look at one of those videos to see where it belongs. (It's very likely black, fairly weird looking, with a twist on the long part and a 90 degree bend above that.)

From here on, you're at the mercy of those folks who are trying to diagnose and solve your difficulty from 3-4,000 miles away. I had enough trouble getting the sideplate off.

Good luck to one and all!!

Ralph Tremaine

Oh, and put the screws back in the holes they came out of. And that reminds me: Before you start whacking on the grip frame with a hammer handle, you need to remove the screws holding the sideplate to the frame.

 

[soe]

Hello everyone,


I've found the culprit! It was a tiny disc of brass from the pierced primer near the trigger assembly. Removed and cleaned up all the gunk inside. My revolver is now working perfectly.


Thank you very much to everyone that commented and helped, even the popcorn guy (VictorLouis).


Kind regards,
GAR

 

[soe]

And please don't even think about removing the sideplate until you have been schooled in the proper procedure. And for openers, any and all You Tube videos that show you where and how to pry it off were done by dangerously ignorant people.

Step One: Remove the grips.

Step Two: Hold the gun with sideplate up or down. If holding it with side plate down, hold it over a folded bath towel, and be aware of the fact that a small object known as a hammer block is going to fall along with the sideplate. If you hold it sideplate up, hold it with your hand loosely covering the sideplate so as to prevent it and the hammer block from falling.

Step Three: Strike the grip frame once with a wooden or plastic hammer handle----one time.(You're trying to jar the sideplate loose from the frame, not bend the grip frame, so no WHAMMITY-BAMMING is necessary----just give it a medium whack----and have a look. If it's come loose, a few more taps will have it off. If it hasn't---another medium whack.

Once it's loose, lift it off, and have a look for the hammer block. With any luck, it'll still be where it belongs---and where it gets replaced. Without that luck, have a look at one of those videos to see where it belongs. (It's very likely black, fairly weird looking, with a twist on the long part and a 90 degree bend above that.)

From here on, you're at the mercy of those folks who are trying to diagnose and solve your difficulty from 3-4,000 miles away. I had enough trouble getting the sideplate off.

Good luck to one and all!!

Ralph Tremaine

Oh, and put the screws back in the holes they came out of. And that reminds me: Before you start whacking on the grip frame with a hammer handle, you need to remove the screws holding the sideplate to the frame.

I did like you said, and although I was born with 2 left hands, I was able to fix the issue with no trouble at all.


Thanks!

 

[soe]

PS. Worst case is hammer stud is broke. A parts kit will not fix that. That would normally require a true S&W factory gun smith. Changing the hammer assembly out may or may not work. The double action sear must fit the trigger. Sometimes you can change the complete hammer assembly and it will work fine. Some times the DA sear of the new hammer will bind. Been there done that. BTW the parts kit you pictured has MIM parts and used a frame mounted firing pin. I do not believe the -3 had MIM and your gun should have firing pin on hammer.

Look here for exploded view of your hammer.
Smith & Wesson Model 686-3 Revolver Parts | Gun Parts Corp.
The spring lists at $2.65

I can not imagine there is a law that prohibits sending a tiny coil spring to Portugal

Let us know what you figure out. We will try to help all we can, even long distance

So you would recommend me to buy the parts kit I pictured?


I know the hammer and firing pin are no compatible with my gun, but isn't it worth it just because of the grip and springs?


I don't think Numrich ships to Portugal.


Kind regards,
GAR

 

[soe]

Just curious? Where did you get the overpressure load; do you reload or shot someone else's reloads?

I was my reload. I consider myself a relatively experienced reloader as I reload thousands of rounds a year, in several calibers.


I got lazy and made a mistake. Won't do it again.


My 9x19 load is 4.4gr of Vectan A1 and my .357 Mag load is 8.8gr of the same powder so, instead of changing my Lyman 55 measure, from 4.4 to 8.8gr, I decided to drop 2 x 44gr loads in each .357 Mag case. I must have dropped 3x in that case.


Learned my lesson.


Kind regards,
GAR

 

[soe]

Quit shooting the hot stuff

Where's the fun in shooting .357 Mag if not for the hot loads? I've got 9x19 for mild loads.

 

[snowman]

soe,

It's wonderful to hear that you've found the problem and that it was a minor issue. I'm sure you're relieved.

I also own a 686-3 & enjoy shooting magnum loads. I just like the challenge of learning how to shoot a magnum accurately and consistently without flinching. In my case I use a slow-burning powder that nearly fills the case and therefore is impossible to double charge(VV N110). This eases my mind while reloading.

We're glad to have you here, sir.

Regards,
Andy

 

[soe]

soe,

It's wonderful to hear that you've found the problem and that it was a minor issue. I'm sure you're relieved.

I also own a 686-3 & enjoy shooting magnum loads. I just like the challenge of learning how to shoot a magnum accurately and consistently without flinching. In my case I use a slow-burning powder that nearly fills the case and therefore is impossible to double charge(VV N110). This eases my mind while reloading.

We're glad to have you here, sir.

Regards,
Andy

Thanks! I'm glad to be here.


In Portugal we don't have a wide selection of gun powders available and, to be honest, I rather use one mid speed powder for all my pistol calibers (.25 ACP, .32 ACP, 9x19 .38 Spl, and .357 Mag), as it simplifies logistics for me. It never brought me problems except for this one because I got lazy.


I shoot a lot, even for US standards, between 1000 and 2000 rounds a month. I don't flinch and I'm relatively accurate shooter when I take my time. Speed is my problem and I'm currently challenging myself to speed up followup shots and transition between targets. I'd like to practice IPSC but I'm close to hopeless at this.

 

[snowman]

Yes, sir, that's a lot of shooting. I'm sure you enjoy it a great deal.

I value simplicity too. I shoot and load for only two calibers(.44mag & .357mag), and use only one load for each caliber. I have trouble organizing and keeping track of things, and so the simpler the better.

Regards,
Andy

 

[soe]

Yes, sir, that's a lot of shooting. I'm sure you enjoy it a great deal.

I value simplicity too. I shoot and load for only two calibers(.44mag & .357mag), and use only one load for each caliber. I have trouble organizing and keeping track of things, and so the simpler the better.

Regards,
Andy

I shoot mostly 9x19. My 686-3 has only 2952 rounds fired.



I'm still missing .44 Mag and .500S&W Mag revolvers in my collection. They're very expensive in Europe but I'm looking for a good used model 29 and 500.

 

[MP-5]

 

[racoonbeast]

JAKE 1945: You are full of stuff!!!

Check the label on many brake cleaners and Gun Scrubber and you will find that they are the same thing! The only real difference is that the various brake cleaners cost about 1/3 as much as Gun Scrubber. The exception is the non-clorinated brake cleaners that cost more than the ones containing clorinated solvents, and do not work as well. All organic solvents will damage some gun wood finishes and some plastics used on guns. Most plastics used on guns are not affected by organic solvents however.

I don't use it, or any other cleaner containing solvents. I do not allow any of that stuff near my bench. The reason is that solvents will kill a Nitride finish. Most makers have their own in-house name for this like "Melanite" or "Duty Treat" as a couple of examples. It is a very common finish on many complete guns, or parts of guns. The gun will instantly look terrible. I had a very expensive Nighthawk get sprayed with some bug spray that contained solvents. It needed to go back for a total refinish.

I figure that there is too much other stuff out there that works well and is safe for anything that might land on my bench. No need to even have this stuff around and risk it turning up in a cleaning operation when it should not.

 

[robertrwalsh]

Congrats. It is nice when you can fix a problem yourself (with a little help from your friends), isn't it?

 

[ImDrRich]

Avoid reloads unless you know exactly what you're doing! You are very lucky you weren't hurt. I know factory ammo is expensive but it is much safer.

Glad you were able to fix your 686 without having to replace it with a new one.