Building my own gun case?

[CW1027]

I want one of those nice, custom cut foam gun cases, but can't justify more than $100. So I thought about just making my own. My dad owns a work working plant, so the tools and hardware to do it with are no issue. I was thinking about using plywood or eastern white pine (the wood we use for the furniture) and then figure out the foam.

Has anyone had experience with this or have any suggestions on the materials to make it with?

Something kind of like this is what I'm going for.

 

[snubbyfan]

I needed a tool box for work many years ago and I decided to make it myself. I used 1/2" plywood with box joints on the corners, a rabbeted, glued and screwed bottom and a flat top. I used plywood because it's more stable and less likely to warp.
Eastern white pine may work but I'm not sure of the stability of a 40"x14" panel. Will it warp and crack with the dimensional changes caused by environmental changes? maybe if the larger panels were of stile and rail construction with either a flat or raised panel.
Similarly dimensioned pine may be lighter than plywood but not as stable.


Others may come along and tell me that I'm full of beans but that's my take on it.

 

[CW1027]

Eastern white pine bends easy for sure, but it would also be the cheapest route because of my dad. I'm sure there's pros and cons on everything. I like the look of that tool box too.

 

[kamloops67]

I'd say use 3/4 hardwood stock for the sides and rebate the edges for 1/4" plywood same species as sides .stain and clear. go find some foam

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

I've made two and had one made. Excellent sturdy chests, but the two good-looking ones were a little heavy, suitable mostly for carrying in a pickup truck. Both were plywood, finished nicely. I did make one lighter one, made out of light plywood and reinforced with (I think) light pine strips, all scrap wood and made to look like it held glass instruments or something else nobody would want. It was lighter, junky looking and practical.

To me, it's mostly a matter of what's useful for your circumstances. A wooden chest or box can certainly be a thing of beauty, but weight and attraction of theft can both be considerations in some cases.

 

[Rastoff]

I've made many boxes over the years. Some pretty and some not so much. Most have been much like snubbyfan's, functional.

What is the firearm that this is for? How big does the case need to be?

 

[CW1027]

I definitely want one for my M&P 15 and SD9VE to stay in together, then maybe one for my 30-06 and my 870, or put all 4 in 1. I don't have a for sure plan, but I do plan on moving forward with it when I figure it out.

 

[CW1027]

If it helps any, these are my guns.

 

[Rastoff]

OK, well the pic helps, but doesn't give the actual dimensions.

About the case itself...

A case to hold all four is a bad idea. It would be too large and too heavy to move around very easily. If made from wood, the thing will be over 50lbs once loaded. Then, you have to consider being able to put it in a vehicle. Unless it's a pickup bed, it won't fit anywhere.

What is your purpose for this case? Storage or just back and forth to the range? Airline travel?

 

[snubbyfan]

I'd say use 3/4 hardwood stock for the sides and rebate the edges for 1/4" plywood same species as sides .stain and clear. go find some foam

I'm liking that idea. Except fit the plywood into grooves. More support, more glue area. Box joints on the corners, get matching handle and hinges, cut some foam and you're all set.

 

[kamloops67]

I'm liking that idea. Except fit the plywood into grooves. More support, more glue area. Box joints on the corners, get matching handle and hinges, cut some foam and you're all set.

Now were talkin'!
I agree with the box joints but not so much on the grooves .
With the rebated edge you can round over the corners to create a smooth edge that will not chip or snag and also create a smooth transition from plywood face to hard wood edges .
With a snug fit and proper gluing technique the wood will split before the glue joint fill fail.
Exception is when gluing end grain as with mitred corners which is why I agree that a box joint is superior.
The last couple boxes I built had mitred corners , just because of the tools I had out at the time I decided to build them .It gives a nice look as well.

 

[CW1027]

Yeah, figured the 4 in 1 was a bad idea haha. I would use it to transport to my "range", which is just an extra field on my land, for when I make my youtube videos. When they aren't in transport I'd probably keep them in the case. I'll work on the actual dimensions on the gun tomorrow.

I like the box joints idea, I think that would help to stabilize the case a lot.

 

[snubbyfan]

Now were talkin'!
I agree with the box joints but not so much on the grooves .
With the rebated edge you can round over the corners to create a smooth edge that will not chip or snag and also create a smooth transition from plywood face to hard wood edges .
With a snug fit and proper gluing technique the wood will split before the glue joint fill fail.
Exception is when gluing end grain as with mitred corners which is why I agree that a box joint is superior.
The last couple boxes I built had mitred corners , just because of the tools I had out at the time I decided to build them .It gives a nice look as well.

Works for me.
Just had an idea. Leave the plywood recessed slightly and glue a hunk of upholstery leather that's a contrasting color to the wood finish on it.

 

[kamloops67]

That "wood" be beautiful. or you could tool the leather for a custom effect.
snub- you want to go into the box building biz?
On second thought the shipping between manufacturing plants would cost more than the box..

 

[CW1027]

That "wood" be beautiful

That's exactly why I want to do it with wood instead of plastic, it just has a better look to it, at least to me anyway.