Bullet casting - sizing problems

[BruceM]

"Harness issues agreed. Too hard = leading just as too soft or too small. 100% agreed."

I stated that poorly.

What I meant by the comment is that bullets that are very hard do not cause leading if properly lubed and are of the correct size. IF the diameter is correct, you will not get gas blowby even with very hard (read water dropped or oven heat treated bullets). There are those who will swear that bullets cast from straight lino (BHN 22) or monotype (BHN 28) will lead the bore because they are too hard. This is untrue in my experience. That said, bullets mixed with the 3:2 alloy shoot just as well, are not quite as hard and also will not lead. It saves lino and still casts well.

Sorry for the confusion.



Bruce

 

[Beemer-mark]

Yes, the sprue cutter handle can wedge the mold apart enough to make bullets oversize across the parting line. I discovered this the hard way. No, they did not leave finning behind, there was no evidence of finning, just fat bullets. Rather than poo pooing my experience, try it yourself. You may be surprised that this may be the root of the problem. Don't squeeze the sprue cutter handle when pouring lead, just grasp the two handles that are attached to the mold halves.

I' sure not squeezing the sprue cutter handle. It fact it fell off and rolled under the bench somewhere and I can't locate it. I'm using a combination wrench as a lever to cut the sprue.

Also the Lee 45 acp 6 cavity mold has no vents that I can see.

Finally, since everyone wants to discuss hardness, I was casting the bullets to shot hot loads out of my Blackhawk 45 colt. I don't think 50% pure lead and 50% Linotype should be that much harder than Alloy2?

 

[BruceM]

Should be just fine and sorry to hi-jack the thread. Be sure to find the missing parts for your mold and put it back together. If you look at how the mating surfaces of the mold blocks are surfaced, you'll understand why there are no vent lines. Cavities which are not vented properly drop bullets which refuse to fill out all of the driving bands.

Bruce

 

[Tell Sackett]

In the Lee moulds the cross-hatch patterns on the face of the block is SUPPOSED to be the venting path.

Just remember, the harder the bullet the bigger the bullet, from the same mould.

What do the pins and buttons look like?

 

[Beemer-mark]

Pins and buttons are good, everything is lubed. Mold closes with no problem.

 

[Beemer-mark]

Mystery solved, thanks to Tell Sackett. I didn't realize the light cross hatching was the vents. I'm using a mold release agent and had sprayed the whole mold face - including the cross hatching. After cleaning the faces well the bullers are dropping out at a consistent 0.4525.

 

[Tell Sackett]

Mark,
Guess how that one was found out!

When I got my first Lee mould, I thought I could make it better by spraying it with CRC Dry Molly. Needless to say, "not so good."

I never did get that mould to run right.

I happen to be fortunate in being able to get some stuff not available to others. 99% alcohol to clean the mould works great. Brake cleaner is next in effectiveness.

The best thing you can do with a Lee mould, follow the directions. If you have problems with bullets dropping, smoke the cavities, get the mould hot, use a damp rag to cool the mould.

Glad to be of help!

 

[Beemer-mark]

i always burn my fingers when I smoke molds - so the mold release seemed like a good idea. The stuff does work great, just have to clean everything but the cavities after a light spray. Never in a thousand years would I have guess the cross hatching was a vent.

BTW my Lee 308 and 311 molds are tough to fill, even with the match smoked cavities. Haven' tried them with the mold release spray (in fact ain't used them in a long time).

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy Again

Glad you got to the bottom of it. Since you don't use the sprue cutter handle, I guess that was not the problem.

I use Midway's spray mold release on my Lee six cavity molds and have no problems. It actually works better for me than smoking the cavities,