Bullet Selection: .38 Special Cases in .357?

[TheTinMan]

I've been using 148 grain HBLSWC bullets for .38 Special target shooting (just recreational). I'd like to use .38 Special cases in my .357 Mag revolver also. Would the hollow-based wadcutter design be OK, or would something like a 158gr SWC be better?

I started wondering about the cylindrical bullet and the shoulder of the chambers which is at least 0.12" ahead of a .38 Special case mouth. After a few short of 100 rounds, my .357 cylinder had a thin film of lead in the flutes and there was visible lead splatter on the forward surface of the frame around the start of the barrel.

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Any good .38 Special load will also shoot well in a .357 Magnum revolver. There's no reason to change loads for different revolvers unless that particular revolver for some reason isn't accurate in that revolver. If your .357 Magnum revolver is usually accurate you will see no difference in it compared to your .38 Special revolver with your target ammo. (usually)

 

[BruceM]

Lyman #358156 Gas Check 155 grain SWC was designed to be crimped in the lower crimping groove so that the O.A.L. when used in a .38 Special case will mimic a .357 Magnum round, eliminating that big jump from the case mouth to the forcing cone when using .38's in a .357 Magnum revolver. This seems to improve accuracy in most guns. The bullet can be crimped in the upper crimping groove when used in .357 Magnum cases. An accurate and excellent dual purpose bullet. I believe that the plain base version of this bullet is Lyman #357446. I have both and prefer the gas check version as did Skeeter Skelton.

Bruce

 

[Paul5388]

The main consideration is whether you're willing to clean the lead ring out of the magnum cylinder after each shooting session. It can and will keep magnum cartridges from chambering properly, if you decide to switch at some point.

 

[TheTinMan]

The main consideration is whether you're willing to clean the lead ring out of the magnum cylinder after each shooting session. It can and will keep magnum cartridges from chambering properly, if you decide to switch at some point.

Good point. What is the best way to clean out that lead?

 

[ScottJ]

I'm with Bruce. The 358156 crimped in the lower groove is the way to go. I own two single cavaties of it and might own more later.

I even found that seated long they'd fit in my old M&P and the length gave an accuracy boost.

 

[Paul5388]

Usually the lead residue will come out pretty easily with a brass/bronze bore brush with some "Chore Boy" copper wrapped into the brush and some solvent. Some people use Kroil and others use Hoppes, or whatever their favorite is. I think I usually use a product called "Bore Scrubber", which is a spray can.

I don't shoot massive amounts of anything in one sitting, so the ring isn't much of a problem for me. The longer Lyman 358429 would also help reduce the ring somewhat, but that's mainly for those who are into casting.

BTW, Elmer didn't like any gas checked bullet, mainly because they don't obturate properly, like a plain base would.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Good point. What is the best way to clean out that lead?

Actually, it's more of a Carbon ring than lead. Like said above it's easily cleaned out with a bronze brush and whatever cleaner you usually use. I carry a spent .357 Magnum case in my range bag and if I decide to fire magnums after a lot of 38's all you need to do is tap the empty case into each cylinder and it will knock the Carbon free.

 

[EricInAZ]

Good point. What is the best way to clean out that lead?

Before breaking a sweat with all that tedious scrubbing, simply size and then flare several rounds of .357 brass.

Then push them into each cylinder - it's OK to tap them in with a plastic mallet, then tap them back out with a wooden dowel. You want a really tight fit. The flared case acts as a scraper, removing the bulk of the ring deposit in each chamber.

OK, now go crazy with that bronze or stainless brush - you just won't have to work as hard at it.

 

[Skip Sackett]

Erich is right, I would only add one thing, put some solvent in the chambers first. Let it soak a bit, it will help. Good advice though, done it tons of times, very simple.

 

[TheTinMan]

Thanks guys! I never would've thought of using a flared .357 Mag case as a scraper.

 

[Calliope]

I use a cordless drill on slow with a .40 caliber bore brush and a bit of solvent. Quick and easy.

There shouldn't be any issue with using standard .38 HBWC's in a magnum, I've never had any trouble with them in magnum revolvers or my .357 Handi rifle. With such a long bullet and a short jump to the throat, there should be plenty of support to maintain alignment.

When I handload them, I load them long enough to get a start in the throats and usually use magnum brass.

 

[johngalt]

The easiest solution of all is to load your target rounds in .357 brass and avoid the problem completely. That's what I do.

 

[BruceM]

"The easiest solution of all is to load your target rounds in .357 brass and avoid the problem completely"

Roger that!! Why create problems for yourself.

Bruce

 

[TheTinMan]

357 magnum brass and HP 158 grain lswc bullets on the way.

I'll let you all know how it turns out.

 

[growr]

I must be the odd man out again on this topic. I shoot thousands of .38 spl in SASS and even after several two day shoots with no cleaning at all, my revolvers will readily accept a .357 casing.

You usually clean the gun after a session anyway.....what is the problem?

I don't do anything extra in my clean up just because I shot .38's.
Actually a couple of passes with my bore snake and all is well. Doesn't get much easier than that!


Randy