BUYING A NEW (OR NEW TO YOU) REVOLVER TIPS

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I have posted similar commentary about purchasing a new or used gun before, however for the sake of the new guys here I'd like to post it once again. There are many here who might be bored reading this but judging from all the issues and problems I read about lately, there are still many who need to learn. While sometimes you get a brand new gun Factory fresh that's a "stinker", at least you have some recourse because of the Factory Warranty - assuming they Factory is having a "good day". :rolleyes: I have always opted to purchase older versions as that is my personal preference. When doing so, thorough and knowledgable inspections are an absolute must! If you are new to this game or not a mechanical type of person - bring someone with you that is a "pro" at it.

Buying a new gun is an exiting event and just as when buying other items it can make you overlook the obvious. I constantly read posts here on this Forum about how many have just bought a new gun or a vintage model new to them. Then we start to hear all the issue with them. Loose parts, excessive Barrel Cylinder gaps, canted barrels, broken sights, bent ejector rods, cracked or chipped grips, cracked forcing cones, Revolvers out of time, failures to carry up properly, gritty actions, and on and on and on. Some have bought guns with known issues such as poor finishes, worn grips etc. that they think is an easy & inexpensive fix. NOTE: I'm not referring to knowledgable guys here looking for a donor for a project gun.

I am not going to list every single item that needs to be checked (even when buying a brand new gun from a Dealer) as the list is long, but I will mention some of he more important and easy to check items on Revolvers.

Timing, Barrel Cylinder Gap (I always carry a feeler gauge when in the market for a vintage Revolver) action - smooth or gritty, carry up, straightness of the Ejector Rod, end shake, Forcing Cone, condition of Hammer Nose (if applicable) excessive Cylinder play, excessive turn line, chips in the frame where the Hammer fits, modifications done by previous owners, after market parts, scratched up or nicked muzzle Crown, Excessively light or heavy trigger pull, buggered up screws (a tell tale sign Bubba has been in there), re-blued or refinished parts, and very important are the stories and excuses that sellers give you. Original box, paperwork and accoutrements if applicable when purchasing a Revolver. There are more items but at least these are the major ones.

These are GUNS and with all the rules, restrictions & expenses with returns, shipping, repairs, etc. it's certainly not like getting a pair of shoes repaired and refurbished. To find competent Gunsmiths these days is extremely difficult, expensive and all the top notch GS's have long long wait times. Firearm finished are NOT the same as they used to be due to more stringent rules and environmental concerns so don't think you can just have it retouched or spot finished. Refinishing is a long and expensive process with high shipping costs. More than likely, finishes will be different and almost never look exactly like Factory.

My intent here is not to scare Newbies away from purchasing vintage Revolvers but it is to purchase them with knowledge, foresight and the reality of what is an easy fix and what is a major issue. You are way better off most of the time just walking away from a Revolver with any major issues or excuses rather than to save $100 bucks thinking you can fix it back up on the cheap. Maybe the "pro's" and old timers here can, but this commentary is main geared towards new guys. IMHO you're better to have walked away from a "cursed" gun and continue the hunt - just like in the Maltese Falcon - LOL! There are still plenty out there and there is a constant supply of vintage Revolvers that are becoming available as the older folks pass on or just give them up.

Well, sorry if I bored the older more experienced crowd here, but hopefully I have helped some new-comers to the hobby. Enjoyment of your newly purchased Revolver is what to strive for - you don't want a boat anchor around your neck and wallet.

Regards and happy & successful purchasing!!
 
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I have been guilty of this , bought a revolver when I’d forgotten my glasses at home one day
Wasn’t as well built as I thought once I got its home , sold it at a loss
Actually did the same thing with my current truck . after I got it home I realized it had been painted �� not as nice as I thought
I make sure I can see before buying anything now lol
 
Yes chief, thank you. I too dont think this info can be over-posted. Buying a used revol er without an inspection by you of some sort is plain and simple a gamble. I know Im guilty of precisely what you are talking about but thankfully I was able to lean on you guys for guidance for which I am very grateful. I learned my lesson though after bad purchase number 1. I wouldnt have been such a disappointment had the seller at least attempted to be partialy open and honest but hey, why would he right? He wanted my money. It was so bad though he took it back and gave me a complete refund.
Someone here posted a link, or maybe I even found it myself to a S&W inspection checklist that I read learned and took with me to every revolver purchase since aling with the small collection of tools to perform it. I mean I gave it my best effort to learn what to look at and for BEFORE leaving the store. My ffl lets me sit in his office and do my checks, I think he was as interested as I was.

No, nothing is more of a let down. So I dont get excited until Ive looked at least at the basics for solid function or weigh what its gonna cost to make any needed corrections.
The tools are relatively cheap and small to take with you. I e since added a borescope to my tools too. Pics and a video of the chambers and bore can be pretty persuasive.
Yoke alignment rods, feeler gauges, knowing HOW a revolver works though is the most powerful tool you can have though and the S&W forum and its members have helped me immensely and Ive had some really good experiences since.
 
I usually refer people to this video, which I've found fairly helpful.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1_1n6u7gW8o[/ame]
 
Good info above. One thing I look at on blued guns is the ejector rod. When trying to determine round count, often a blued revolver that has not been carried, but has a lot of range time will have an almost flawless finish, "hardly ever shot". But finish wear on the ejector rod will tell the tale. It is a good indicator the gun has been shot a lot more than the rest of the finish may indicate. Posted a pic of my model 28-2 as an example.

Larry

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Thanks for posting this Chief, good info. Youtube (yeah, I know . . .) has some good videos on this topic but like anything else you have to be careful which “expert” you choose to follow.
 
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