Calipers

[mcnee229]

Dial calipers are nice, if you'll never get them dirty, drop them, or plan on replacing them as the gears wear out. The cheaper ones are nice in that there is enough play in the gear that it can skip a few teeth if you run it out a couple inches quickly.

I have a pair of Sherr-Tumico verniers for at home, and Mitutoyo digimatics for work. I've checked both against jo blocks and both are dead on through the entire range. Both are water proof and just need wiped down from time to time. Neither will skip a gear, because neither have any gears to skip. They both will read in inch and metric, though the verniers have the metric scale on the back side so you nearly need to be a lefty to read it in metric.

I'm a tool maker too, and use my Digimatics daily on the mill, lathe or at the press.

Scott

 

[rockquarry]

I've never seen a reason to go to digital models. I use calipers and micrometers a lot. Several years ago, I bought a new Brown & Sharpe dial caliper. Based on a sample of only one, I can tell no difference in use between it and a much cheaper model sold by Lee. A Craftsman dial caliper also worked as well as the B&S.

 

[JohnK]

Still using a dial Mitotoya (sp ?) that I bought nearly 50 years ago.

That rascal cost $ 50 then, quite an expenditure for a broke kid.

Glad I bit the bullet, they've been great.

 

[mkk41]

I've still got a few pr of Starrett No.123 Master Vernier Calipers. Started out with verniers. Probably why my eyes are so screwed up.

 

[dazlin]

Dial. Mine are Mitutoyo, mid 80's.

 

[rwsmith]

That's a great idea

I agree. Don't buy junk. Pawn shops often have used dial
calipers from quality manufacturers like Starrett at decent
prices.

That's one of the best ideas I have heard in a while.

 

[BlueOvalBandit]

What I did discover is that the most recent new, unopened box of Hornady 168 gr. BTHP National Match projectiles are not consistent in their length, mostly due to differences in their point profiles.
Ed

That's pretty normal. Tips are pretty inconsistent and why they make meplate uniformers and trimmers. If you want accurate readings you need to measure off the ogive, it is the only way.


In terms of cheap tools the vast majority are accurate enough to get the job done, even if its off 0.001" it isn't going to make a difference, your press will give bigger variances. What matters more is that they know how to use it correctly. You can give someone nice Starretts and another a HF and if the person with the starretts doesnt know what they're doing they'll be further off than the HF guy.

 

[mtgianni]

I use inexpensive calipers and the best micrometer I can afford.

 

[Ben_hutcherson]

I've never put much faith in any calipers, and tend to buy cheap ones. My preference is for verniers.

Micrometers are a different story, and as a watchmaker I they are my go-to measuring tool. My favorite and most-used micrometer is a bench model "Watchcraft" brand. Watchcraft was a private label for C&E Marshall out of Chicago-I'm not sure who made it for Marshall, but they always carried premium quality tools. I also use handheld Starrett micrometers for more routine(and on the lathe) work.

 

[mkk41]

I've never put much faith in any calipers, and tend to buy cheap ones. My preference is for verniers.

Micrometers are a different story, and as a watchmaker I they are my go-to measuring tool. My favorite and most-used micrometer is a bench model "Watchcraft" brand. Watchcraft was a private label for C&E Marshall out of Chicago-I'm not sure who made it for Marshall, but they always carried premium quality tools. I also use handheld Starrett micrometers for more routine(and on the lathe) work.

I use mics mainly on the lathe and surface/ID/OD grinders. I have mics made by Etalon , Starrett , Lufkin , Brown & Sharpe.

I have a boxed set of 6 metric mics made in Poland by VIS. Carbide faces , ground thread , really nice mics.

 

[tlay]

I was a maintenance supervisor for 20 years and a mechanic for the other 15 years. I always had the best measuring devises. One day while reloading I dropped my $120 calipers. I said bad words. I should of had a rubber rug or carpet under me. I bought a $30 digital caliper. I did a test with some of the expensive sets. Now they are not as accurate, they can vary 1 or 2 thousandths, but they will do for reloading.
After all we are not building rockets.

 

[mkk41]

Like anything , imported electronic gizmos and gadgets get better and cheaper as time goes on. First digital caliper I bought was a $69 Accu-Pro Gold from MSC. I liked it because it had a .050"dia depth rod. Worked well till I dropped it , then it wouldn't shut off till battery was removed , or died.

I've checked my $10 Harbor Freight cals with gage pins and Jo blocks and they were never off by more than .0005". The bezel on my old B&S dial I've used has gotten so scratched and fogged , I can barely see thru it. And they want $40 for a new one!

 

[CMD-KY]

I have a HF digital, pretty cheap. I can see the numbers, a real plus, the dial was becoming difficult. But it also will read out in fractions as well as decimals, other digitals may do the same, don't know. I have found that helpful off the hand load bench.

 

[chief38]

I've had a Starrett DIAL Caliper for over 30 years now - excellent!

 

[gwpercle]

I purchased a dial caliper from Cabela's, it has thier name on it. Wasn't too expensive, around twenty-five dollars, all stainless steel , easy to use, easy to read, and accurate. If it breaks or I have a problem I will simply bring it back. So far it has worked just fine and I like the quality.

Gary