Can I reduce the weight?

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I have a snubby model 317 that has a trigger pull weight that is really heavy. I have it on good authority that the reason it came from the factory like this is because a rimfire in a light host needs a strong hammer strike to be reliable.
Has anyone refuted that wisdom and gotten a decent trigger pull with reliability with this platform?
 
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Springs

There are several suppliers of springs Wolfe being one. You can order spring kits of different spring weights. I'm sure you could find a qualified Smith to install if your not sure about changing out the springs. Hope this helps
 
Changing the trigger rebound spring is easy; Wolff makes the good ones. Here is a longer than necessary video where Jerry Miculek is changing several springs. I would just focus on the trigger rebound spring and you'll be very happy.... p.s. I usually do this kind of spring work INSIDE a clear plastic bag that's big enough for my hands, the gun and some small tools that are necessary.... the bag protects my eyes AND helps me to stop losing all those small springs.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9gn7zE5b3g[/ame]

J.
 
Do a trigger pull test first. Double action and single action, record it. Open up the side cover and lube all the moving parts with moly. I lube the sears, the cylinder stud, swing out, arm, Star on the rear of the cylinder. Next I cycle the revolver 50 to 100 times to burnish the moly into the pores of the metal. Then do the same trigger pull test again.

Note. I lose weight by skipping lunch but that's another post. Lol
 
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Trigger pulls typically get smoother and a little lighter with plenty of use, so how much has this revolver been used?
Proper lubrication can also help, but the inside of that revolver might also contain hardened and/or dirty lubricant and perhaps even debris from the factory. If you are going to take the time and trouble of removing the side plate, clean, then lubricate.
 
Years ago, I had a PPC gun made out of a M15-3. One of the things the gunsmith did was lube the cylinder assembly, and spun it about 25K revolutions using compressed air. The cylinder rotates like it is on ball bearings. Every little bit of resistance helps
 
The short answer is yes - you can reduce pull weight by replacing the Trigger Rebound spring and slightly shortening the Strain Screw on the Main Spring (do not just leave original length screw loose). I have spare Strain Screws that I use to make shorter ones and leave the original alone to restore Factory spec's if I want to sell it. If you choose to do this I would suggest using a non original screw and go slowly - a little goes a long way!

That said, a Rimfire's trigger pull can not be made as light as a center fire Revolver's can as it does need more force to set off the rimfire primer.

I've done this so many times I don't even bother with a trigger pull scale anymore -I just know what feels right.
 
I have a snubby model 617 that has a trigger pull weight that is really heavy. I have it on good authority that the reason it came from the factory like this is because a rimfire in a light host needs a strong hammer strike to be reliable.
Has anyone refuted that wisdom and gotten a decent trigger pull with reliability with this platform?
I'd like to see a picture of that as I think the shortest barrel on a 617 was 4"
If you are talking about the 317 I agree, it does have a heavy double action trigger. I do not find either it or the 317-1 objectionable in single action
I have both the 317 (snubby) and the 317-1 (kit gun). I think a LOT of the perceived heaviness in single action cocking is due to the hammer geometry. The snubby uses a bodyguard hammer while the kit gun uses the regular J frame spurred hammer. The 317-1 has a MUCH easier cocking in single action. As far as the trigger pull in double action, I find both heavier than my 1982 model 63
 
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I'd like to see a picture of that as I think the shortest barrel on a 617 was 4"
If you are talking about the 317 I agree, it does have a heavy double action trigger. I do not find either it or the 317-1 objectionable in single action
I have both the 317 (snubby) and the 317-1 (kit gun). I think a LOT of the perceived heaviness in single action cocking is due to the hammer geometry. The snubby uses a bodyguard hammer while the kit gun uses the regular J frame spurred hammer. The 317-1 has a MUCH easier cocking in single action. As far as the trigger pull in double action, I find both heavier than my 1982 model 63

You're right, I meant 317.
 
Ralph, you have a great gunsmith near you, Teddy Jacobson, in Sugar Land,TX. He does amazing trigger jobs and you can call him to see what wolf springs he recommends for you. I know for a rimfire revolver, he would use a 1 pound heavier trigger return spring than what he would use in a center fire revolver, for reliability. I just got back a gun I sent him, that i will post about, and the trigger is now amazing.
 

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