can i skip case trimming on .38spl

[happymech1]

Ok im going off memory. And its been 5years since I have reloaded.

If I remember correctly I have to trim all cases to the same legth so I can set crimp die once. and their is no skipping this step or can I get away with out crimping and triming?

 

[Paul5388]

I don't think I've ever met a trimmed .38 Special. I know I certainly don't trim them and seem to get a decent taper crimp. I don't know about a roll crimp, since I never use a roll crimp.

 

[sjmjax]

You can skip it but it tends to produce erratic crimping.

I trim mine once in the life of the case after the first firing and it seem to serve me well.

You can also add the step of using a Lee Factory crimp die. Use the original seat & crimp die to seat only and maybe minimally reduce the case mouth flare. Then final crimp in the Lee die. This gives a very consistent crimp and resizes the loaded cartridge as well.

 

[cp1969]

I don't think I've ever met a trimmed .38 Special. I know I certainly don't trim them and seem to get a decent taper crimp. I don't know about a roll crimp, since I never use a roll crimp.

I've never trimmed one either, and I have the most motley collection of .38 brass in existence.

I roll crimp and it doesn't seem to make any difference. I know there is a point where it HAS to make a difference but I apparently haven't reached it yet and almost all of my brass has been either picked up from others leaving it behind or bought used at gun shows.

 

[cjw3]

I trim them as needed. It is not necessary if you stick with a taper crimp, but I only use that with WC bullets. SWC's get a roll crimp and uniform case length is essential for consistent results.

I used to try to keep non-trimmed cases for use with WC's segregated from trimmed ones, but that is too much hassle. If they all get trimmed I know they will work for whatever I am trying to do.

 

[oldRoger]

Most straight wall cases do not grow after firing they tend to shrink a bit. There may be exceptions with magnum loads but I don't shoot and reload many magnum loads repeatedly.
So once trimmed as sjmjax says they tend to be fine for a long time. I expect the major difference is the original length.
I have been using a taper crimp in my .357 & .38 target loads for a long time, with a taper crimp you will never notice a difference.

 

[Jellybean]

their is no skipping this step or can I get away with out crimping and triming?

You should crimp. If you are loading light bullets with light powder charges you can use taper crimping, with which trimming isn't really needed. If you are using hotter loads with heavier bullets I prefer to roll crimp. .38 spl. loads don't stretch brass very much and won't need trimmed very often, if ever. If you are concerned about extreme accuracy the key is to get everything as close to exactly the same as possible so you might want to keep them all the same length in that case. But for most of your ammo needs just make sure the brass isn't over max. case length and set the roll crimp off the shortest brass you have.

 

[Skip Sackett]

Don't trim but I have grouped. Measured by calipers and separated by length. When batches were changed, adjustment was made to the bullet seating and crimping dies.

Can't say I have never trimmed. Once maybe. Then adopted the above plan.

 

[happymech1]

thanks

Thanks I will skip the trimming. And will roll crimp.

I have about about bullets left over to load really having a hard time justifing single stage loading pistol round seem like i could work equal amount over time and over compinsated for savings. I keep track of my time but this maybe my ;ast load for blasting ammo.

As for lee factory crimp I have it for all my rifles just so I dont have to trim.

many thanks you all save me some time
michael

 

[Dan Cash]

I have never trimmed a pistol cartridge. They wear out, i.e. crack, before they grow.

 

[JohnnyMM]

The sole reason for crimping is to hold the bullet in place during recoil. If you load your firearm and fire a round the remaining rounds in the cylinder or magazine must not move else the firearm may jam. Problem is using a roll crimp on cases that are not the same length will case the crimp to vary and will affect accuracy and excessive crimp can make the round difficult or impossible to chamber. The best, simplest, and most common alternative to roll crimping is a taper crimp. I and most target shooters I know don't trim their cases and use a taper crimp. If I were shooting P+ or 357 magnum ammunition I might consider a roll crimp, but I doubt it.

 

[TSQUARED]

I have never trimmed a straight walled pistol cartridge case including bullseye pistol loads in 32 S&W Long, 38 special and 45 ACP. Work hardening of the brass from repeated sizing and crimping wears out the case by either fraying at the case mouth or case splits.

 

[H Richard]

If you use a roll crimp (which you should if you are loading up to factory velocity or greater) then you should trim (as needed). A fresh batch of cases should be checked for length and trimmed to minimum stated length. Any "growth" in excess of a couple thousandths of an inch you should trim again. If not it will change the consistency in the release of the bullet and accuracy will be affected. I did a test one time years ago. I loaded some .38's with random fired brass of unknown origin. Didn't measure case length, but hand weighed each powder charge, and hand primed every case and checked overall length for consistency. Then I loaded a batch of all the same brand once fired cases, carefully trimmed to exactly the same length, and loaded exactly as I had the previous batch. I fired each batch separately in a custom tuned Mod 19, 6", mounted in a Ransom Rest at 50 ft. The carefully trimmed batch turned in a 10 shot group of under a half inch. The non trimmed batch 10 shot group was 1 1/4".

So, If you are satisfied with the level of accuracy you get with not trimming, don't trim. If you want the best accuracy trim.

 

[jlynch34]

I have never trimmed a pistol cartridge. They wear out, i.e. crack, before they grow.

I agree with Dan, I've never trimmed a pistol cartridge either. I have been reloading 357 mag, 38 spl, 41 mag and 44 mag for years.

Jerry

 

[Bloodhound]

I have never trimmed a straight wall pistol case...and my 38s are so light that case stretching is not an issue.

 

[David Sinko]

I had some problems yesterday at a match with my Model 64 snub. I grabbed some ammo that I had loaded years ago for my Model 66 .357 Magnum. I used mixed .38 Special brass and plated 158 gr. bullets. These bullets actually have a crimping groove, albeit a shallow groove. Experience has taught me to not roll crimp too hard, as I'll cut through the plating and have all kinds of problems. Well, I didn't crimp enough and some of the rounds didn't want to seat in the chambers. At first I thought the gun was getting dirty but upon further inspection I learned that I was not crimping enough to remove the flair from the shorter cases. Only two rounds were problematic enough that the cylinder was a little tight when closed. I had never experienced this problem in the .357 chamber. So you learn something new every day. I learned that I no longer want to bother with plated bullets in revolver cartridges. I still won't take the time to trim revolver cases; I'll just use cast bullets from now on where I can apply heavier crimp and not worry about plating.

Dave Sinko

Dave Sinko

 

[Paul5388]

I shoot some pretty heavy .357 Mag loads and never use a roll crimp. If I don't have a problem with rifle ammunition that doesn't have a crimp, why would I think it would be a problem in a hand gun? I shot some 2200 fps Golden Sabers yesterday that only had a taper crimp, which will also provide the best accuracy in a rifle shooting hand gun ammunition.

 

[Yurko]

Been reloading the same ones for over a year (5-7 reloadings) & have only trimmed one box - just once - to see if there's a difference.

I did not notice a difference.

 

[acl864]

I trim 38 Sp and 357 Mag before I use it the first time. Then spot check every once in a while, trimming if needed. I start culling them out when they shrink to .004" below my trim length. When the majority of my brass has been culled due to shrinkage I'll adjust my trim length down .005" and start over. Not sure how long that will take but probably a good while. I'm not sure I'm a good enough shot to notice the difference in accuracy but I like a consistent roll crimp so I trim my brass.

 

[SMSgt]

Other than trimming 9mm Luger (9x19) cases down to 9MM Mak (9x18), I've never had to trim a handgun case (.38, .357, .41 Mag, 9mm Mak, 45 auto) The .38 headspaces on the rim, so length is not critical as in one that headspaces on the mouth. It won't hurt to do it, but not necessary.