Can't find local ammo for a 32 top-break, what's best to order?

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Hello everyone! I was researching online and stumbled across this older post here, and thought that I might as well just ask the experts.

I've been going over my father's estate and stumbled across his grandfather's old lemon squeezer. I don't know much of it past that he used to hide it in his boot when he was a police officer.

My local gun shop isn't familiar with too much on it, so I've been looking around online for information. It's serial # is in the 225,000s, so I'm thinking it's a "5th" model made around 1909 to 1919.

All sites I've looked at although warn about the ammunition it takes, commenting that it needs to be S&W short with a low grain.

My local shop doesn't know how to find that. They did have 32 S&W 88gr with muzzle velocity 680 fps.

Is the stuff they have in inventory safe to fire in this gun?

To be clear - I'm not interested in ever actively using the gun. But I do want to keep it in clean condition with the correct ammunition beside it. I've been spending most of the past few months meticulously labeling and cataloging and researching things from his estate in hope's that if something happens to me, those who inherit my stuff won't go and ruin anything by firing whatever ammo fits the chamber.

Thanks for any help!
 
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You can find .32 S & W on Gunbroker, and also on Buffalo Arms Web site, and also sgammo...

I have an old Iver Johnson "Bicycle Gun" which uses it, I got my Ammo from Buffalo Arms, but the other places would do just fine too.

Post us some pictures of the old S & W?

Oil it up good! Might have been a long time sine it was last Lubed.
 
Welcome! What you describe from your local shop 'may' be the correct ammunition. The box should be labeled .32 S & W, not .32 S & W Long. The latter will not seat fully in a .32 Safety Hammerless (the action will not close), so it would be impossible to fire the gun with them.

Modern factory .32 S & W is safe to use in a mechanically sound gun. Hope this is helpful.
 
Welcome to the Forum. Commercially manufactured 32 S&W is very low pressure ammo. Be careful what you use as a backstop, since the bullet will bounce off wood.

You might find some foreign ammo labeled 32 Corto or boxes stating 32 Short (which is a misnomer), but all those will fit a 32 S&W chamber. Do a search on ammoseek.com and it should point you to several suppliers that stock this caliber.
 
I have multiple top breaks in 32 S&W. I also load for this caliber. First, I suggest that you have a qualified gunsmith check out your gun to make sure it is shape to fire. Looks can be decieving. I have examined very nice looking older guns that were out of time and would hae been dangerous to fire. After that follow the above advice.
 
Welcome aboard, Midway has it listed, you have to enter it in the "Search". Never had any problems whatsoever with Midway, not the cheapest but great shipping and handling, no questions asked if returning anything.
 
Welcome to the forum ! I have seen 32 S&W at Cabela's, also your local firearms dealer should be able to order it for you. As others have said any modern brand will work and be safe as long as your Smith is in good shape
 
My local shop doesn't know how to find that. They did have 32 S&W 88gr with muzzle velocity 680 fps.

Is the stuff they have in inventory safe to fire in this gun?

Sorry I missed this in first reading.

If it is "32 S & W" then it is the right one...see if it chambers alright, and if so, then you are good to go!

.32 S & W Long, is a different/longer Cartridge from the ".32 S & W" as such, even if same diameter.
 
A friend has an Iver Johnson 32 revolver. The cartridges for it are rim fire and black powder. He found a source for a few rounds, we attached it to a tree and fired it from about ten yards away with a string.
 
Pulled the string?

So Chief ?
What happened when you pulled the string? For some reason this reminds me of something I did in a Bar in the Philippines.

Murph
 
The string was attached to the trigger. He was being cautious firing the gun the first times. He didn't want to be injured if it blew up.
 
The string was attached to the trigger. He was being cautious firing the gun the first times. He didn't want to be injured if it blew up.

Hey, even the factory test fired most of their production line with high power loads before selling them. I used to buy and shoot original muzzleloaders and old hammer shotguns, so the first thing I did after inspecting and cleaning, I tied them to an old car tire and pulled the string from a substantial distance behind the shed. Loaded them way above what I would shoot them at, but never blew up any of them. Actually, if you ever followed Sherman Bell's articles in Double Gun Journal named "Finding Out for Myself". He tested dozens of old walhanger shotguns much more severely than I ever did and still could not blow up any of them. He eventually cracked stocks, froze actions, and stretched the breech blocks, but no movie type failures occurred.
 
I've built a few rifles out of Mauser actions, and have a tire on a rim staked to the ground with ratchet straps to hold the rifle. I have a berm to get behind while pulling a string tied to the trigger never had a problem with any of them, but made me feel better about putting the rifle to my shoulder, and pulling the trigger.
 
safety first

I'm all for safety first. If you feel the need to use the string test go for it.

The only time I've ever used a string was to let a pet Alligator out of its cage to scare a mean lady that use to host a bar called "The Brown Fox" on Magsaysay St. in Olongapo, PI.

She'd yell at everyone for nothing. Walking into the bar you'd walk past a street stand, guy selling barbeque dog, etc. Had a pet Alligator in a cage about 4 feet long normally tied to his stand. It would actually "hiss" at this lady when she walked in and she would yell at it also. Screamed at the guy to move his stand but he never would.

One day a couple buddies were sitting at a table behind the stand, I reached down to the cage and tied a string to the door release and we waited for her to show up. The guy would put the gator into the cage when he knew she was coming. Anyway, When I pulled the string the Alligator actually chased her. It was hilarious. I had to leave that Bar (got kicked out by that lady). "Don't ever come back JOE", and hang out at the cork room after that but it was worth it.

Murph
 
Hey, even the factory test fired most of their production line with high power loads before selling them. I used to buy and shoot original muzzleloaders and old hammer shotguns, so the first thing I did after inspecting and cleaning, I tied them to an old car tire and pulled the string from a substantial distance behind the shed. Loaded them way above what I would shoot them at, but never blew up any of them. Actually, if you ever followed Sherman Bell's articles in Double Gun Journal named "Finding Out for Myself". He tested dozens of old walhanger shotguns much more severely than I ever did and still could not blow up any of them. He eventually cracked stocks, froze actions, and stretched the breech blocks, but no movie type failures occurred.

Gary, That is exactly the method I was taught and just for safety's sake we always tested them "Loaded for Bear" which in our vernacular meant a double powder charge with two seperately patched balls firmly loaded on top. Never lost a piece but never tested any old shotguns, some of those are scary at best in my opinion. Never was a shotgun guy...You put 180 grains of 2F under a pair of patched .535 balls and fire that off hand and see what your made of.
 

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