Can't open Mdl 28 cylinder

B

Beemer-mark

Member
Joined
May 12, 2009
Messages
1,055
Reaction score
730
Location
Wilmington, NC
I have a Mdl 28 no dash that I cannot get the cylinder to release and swing out. I'm assuming that the ejector rod has un-screwed binding the cylinder in the frame. I've tried to re-screw the rod to no avail. Any suggestions on how to get the cylinder out of the frame??
 
Register to hide this ad
I hope the revolver is un loaded. My opinion is to remove the grips, side plate, mainspring and all the internal parts including the cylinder stop. With the cylinder latch out you should be able to use a pin punch to trip the center pin enough to so that the cylinder will swing out- it may bind in which case you may have to GENTLY tap the cylinder with a non marring hammer. Careful! if you horse it you can spring the crane! If it still won't budge then drive out the ejector rod latch retaining pin, put some penetrating oil in the latch area and then try again with the drift pin. If it still won't budge then you'l need to use more force at the risk of bending something. My advice is to take it to an experienced gunsmith. Good luck!
 
you might try a to carefully use a eyeglass screwdriver to retract the locking bolt at the far end of the ejector rod. I had to do that with my m-19 once when the rod had unscrewed. Insert the screwdriver between the bolt and the ejector rod, The taper on the bolt should enable you to do so. That part isn't blued, jus be careful. I would try this before dismantling the entire revolver.
 
Agreed that dismantling is a last resort. If I am not mistaken, the threads should be left handed on a Model numbered revolver after around 1960. If you are trying to tighten it thinking it has standard right handed threads you may actually be making things worse?

Other options are spent cases have primers pushed out binding the cylinder or more problematic having live rounds with the same issues? . Worse case scenario would be that the gun has been grossly over-pressured, compromising the action???
 
Pending the locking bolt is not frozen (being won't move) due to age or corrosion/crud, use a .004 or .005 feeler gauge and slide it in between the locking bolt and the end of the ejector rod. Then you will be able to open the cylinder.
This is if the ejector rod has screwed out being the actual problem.
 
If it is a M28 no dash, the extractor rod threads are right hand. The change to left hand came with the dash-1 in 1960. There's not much that can prevent the cylinder from unlocking except for the extractor rod backing out. When you press the latch release forward, can you see the latch pin at the front of the extractor shroud move forward? Normally, it should be just barely past flush, but will move about 3 mm when you press the latch to unlock the cylinder. The forward end of the knurled extractor rod should have a few mm of space between it and the forward edge of the shroud cutout. If it looks pressed to the end of the cutout, it has probably started backing out of the cylinder threads, and the forward latch can't move enough to release.

Try holding the extractor rod so it can't easily turn. (easier said than done, you can wedge something made of wood or plastic, but nothing metal) between the rod and shroud where the knurling is. With your strong hand (shooting hand) grip the gun and pull the hammer back far enough to retract the cylinder lock pin so the cylinder can be rotated. NO NOT COCK THE GUN. With the cylinder free to rotate, turn it clockwise as seen from the rear of the gun, which is opposite of its functional direction. Make sure the extractor rod is not turning with the cylinder. If the cylinder seems difficult to turn, it should become easier almost immediately if the rod is threading back in. Don't force it if it refuses to turn at all.

This should cause the extractor rod to screw far enough back in to allow the cylinder to open. Once open, you can finish screwing the extractor rod back in. There is a tool available that clamps to the knurled end to provide torque to tighten the rod, but you can use a drill chuck, HAND TURN ONLY. Don't use thread locker, and before trying to tighten the rod, place at least three empty cases seated into the cylinder, which will absorb the torque and not damage the slot in the extractor or the pins on the back side of the extractor star. Also be careful not to place side loads on the extractor rod, as it is easily bent.

I have done this procedure a couple of times on one of my revolvers which has some difficulty keeping the rod threaded in after a long range session. Go slow, be patient.
 
Take the sideplate off, remove the main spring and hammer which will expose the locking bolt - it is held by a small spring in the rear but you should be able to pull it back and up to remove it from the frame.
 
Hair Trigger said:
If it is a M28 no dash, the extractor rod threads are right hand. The change to left hand came with the dash-1 in 1960. There's not much that can prevent the cylinder from unlocking except for the extractor rod backing out. When you press the latch release forward, can you see the latch pin at the front of the extractor shroud move forward? Normally, it should be just barely past flush, but will move about 3 mm when you press the latch to unlock the cylinder. The forward end of the knurled extractor rod should have a few mm of space between it and the forward edge of the shroud cutout. If it looks pressed to the end of the cutout, it has probably started backing out of the cylinder threads, and the forward latch can't move enough to release.

Try holding the extractor rod so it can't easily turn. (easier said than done, you can wedge something made of wood or plastic, but nothing metal) between the rod and shroud where the knurling is. With your strong hand (shooting hand) grip the gun and pull the hammer back far enough to retract the cylinder lock pin so the cylinder can be rotated. NO NOT COCK THE GUN. With the cylinder free to rotate, turn it clockwise as seen from the rear of the gun, which is opposite of its functional direction. Make sure the extractor rod is not turning with the cylinder. If the cylinder seems difficult to turn, it should become easier almost immediately if the rod is threading back in. Don't force it if it refuses to turn at all.

This should cause the extractor rod to screw far enough back in to allow the cylinder to open. Once open, you can finish screwing the extractor rod back in. There is a tool available that clamps to the knurled end to provide torque to tighten the rod, but you can use a drill chuck, HAND TURN ONLY. Don't use thread locker, and before trying to tighten the rod, place at least three empty cases seated into the cylinder, which will absorb the torque and not damage the slot in the extractor or the pins on the back side of the extractor star. Also be careful not to place side loads on the extractor rod, as it is easily bent.

I have done this procedure a couple of times on one of my revolvers which has some difficulty keeping the rod threaded in after a long range session. Go slow, be patient.
Click to expand...

The road I've taken but good explanation. I can't budge the thumb / cylinder release.
 
ken158 said:
Take the sideplate off, remove the main spring and hammer which will expose the locking bolt - it is held by a small spring in the rear but you should be able to pull it back and up to remove it from the frame.
Click to expand...

Does this work if the ejector rod has threaded out? I may have jumped to the ejector rod unscrewing too quickly. The issue is I cannot budge the thumb release. The last time I fired this gun was over a year ago and it's sat in safe since then. when I took it out of the safe a couple of weeks ago I could not move the cylinder release.

UPDATE I've taken the internals out and I cannot move the cylinder locking pin (the part that the thumb release pushes). Tried a drift pin and tapped it with a hammer to no avail. What next?
 
Last edited:
Possibly a bit of rust/crud has set-up during the time is was stored. Try applying some penetrating oil, such as Kroil, and letting it sit overnight. When a bit of rust forms within an area with a tight clearance, it can cause a part to stick very solidly.
 
OutWest50 said:
Possibly a bit of rust/crud has set-up during the time is was stored. Try applying some penetrating oil, such as Kroil, and letting it sit overnight. When a bit of rust forms within an area with a tight clearance, it can cause a part to stick very solidly.
Click to expand...

I have in mounted barrel down and soaking with Kroil right now. Will see how that works. I'm going to leave it for a week or more. I have a far nicer 27 that I shoot and this has been in the safe for at least a year, maybe more.
 
I once had a model 29 where the locking bolt backed up/out of the hole in recoil shield. I had the thumb release off which probably allowed enough rearward travel to come out of the hole. If this is your case. Take the side plate off and remove internal parts. If it is out of the hole, jiggle the locking bolt till it falls back into hole. Then reinstall thumb piece and it won't pop out again unless the pivot stem is damaged.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

DoubleH
CM Cylinder won't swing out
Replies
10
Views
583
S&W revolverman
S
R
cylinder not always opening
Replies
8
Views
543
bigggbbruce
bigggbbruce
D
Fitting a yoke?
Replies
3
Views
514
duman444
D
H
Cylinder Stuck in Model 64-5
Replies
8
Views
469
jframesj
J
R
S&W Mod 65-2 -> Cylinder difficult to open sometimes
Replies
8
Views
325
Vtgw938
Vtgw938

Latest posts

Back
Top