Can't take it any more.....

[dipperdave]

I also just received my M&P 9 with 4.25 inch barrel and no safety. The trigger is pretty bad, full of grit. It is the worst striker fired trigger I have ever owned from any manufacturer. This is only my second M&P. I bought the first one , a full size .45 ACP about 4 years ago and it came with a very good trigger straight out of the box. From what I have read on this and other forums, Smith has gradually improved the M&P trigger since they first brought it out. That may be true, but my older one has a much better trigger to the new one. Maybe you just have to get lucky to get a good trigger.

I do love the feel of an M&P so I guess I will take the Apek route. Although I have owned several Glocks, and still have three of them, it has taken a lot of handling and dry firing for a Glock to begin to feel okay (not good but just okay) in my hand. The Smith M&P in any size feels just right for me so I'll shell out the money to improve the trigger on this one.

 

[BrianE]

I think S&W should come with Apex triggers. They started producing collaborations with that lame-o Wyatt, why not with Randy. [emoji4]

 

[motorcyclejoe]

Called S&W customer support today to see if I could make arrangements for the pistol action package. Greeting said they are only handling police and military emergencies this week, so I'll need to call next week. I'm also going to see if they will install the True Glo sights I order last week. Hoping that won't cost much since they need to remove the rear sight anyway.

 

[Prasko]

I just wish apex would produce a standard flat faced trigger that doesn't require the FSS kit be installed

 

[WilliamB]

Called S&W customer support today to see if I could make arrangements for the pistol action package. Greeting said they are only handling police and military emergencies this week, so I'll need to call next week. I'm also going to see if they will install the True Glo sights I order last week. Hoping that won't cost much since they need to remove the rear sight anyway.

You may want to evaluate the costs of going with S&W plus postage both ways and comparing it to APEX. You can also send your pistol to APEX and they will install it for a service fee. Alternatively there are some very excellent vids on YOUTUBE instructing about the install. That's what I did.

I followed the vids step by step. Each step I followed I put the vid on pause. The first pistol took about 1/2 hour and the second one without the vid took me only 15 minutes or so when I did it months latter. Also the rear sight is very easy to install. There are lots of vids on this also.

The most important thing is just make sure you use the proper size roll pin punch. Very difficult to do any permanent damage. Go slow and you should be fine.

It seemed to me to be intimidating at first but it really was very easy. If you get in trouble you can always take it to a local gunsmith.

If you are undecided take a look at the APEX install vids. Actually there are some better ones on other YouTube channels.

No matter what you decide you have chosen wisely to improve the trigger.

 

[marine6680]

I have seen many who prefer the Apex kit over the M&P Pro trigger. If the enhancement package from SW is similar, then I would say the Apex is a better deal.

Similar cost... But potentially cheaper as well.

I got the FFS with poly trigger kit. Others like the AEK and then add the separate trigger.

The install is pretty easy with a set of standard and roll punches, a small vice or other method to hold the slide when driving out the rear sight. (mine was pretty easy to remove, not a lot of force, I used a rag to prevent marks, took it slow) A block of wood with a hole drilled in it to help with driving out the pins.

 

[Steyr Man 146]

There is tons of info on you tube about doing inexpensive trigger work.....On any hand gun made you might be out tools but if you have patients and love of gunsmithing you can bring it down to 5.15 on the trigger

 

[hardluk1]

I did the straight trigger fss kit. Glad I did as it turns a below average trigger pull into the class of the field , really . Very smooth 4lb pull . For me its worth it. I have done the DIY trigger jobs and 5lbs is possible BUT not like what some apex parts can do.

 

[triggerb]

If you're confident in removing the rear sights, you can remove the striker safety plunger to polish it lightly and evenly with 1000-2000 grit sandpaper. You can round it off as well if you'd like.
Then you can lightly polish the striker block itself where it makes contact with the sear.

If you're not confident in removing the rear sights, you can still noticeably remove the gritty feel by looking at the trigger bar and noticing where the bar meets the striker blocker and sear, the metal has horizontal lines extruding from the bar. This is from machining and on more expensive guns this will have been polished out at the factory. You can similarly use 1000-2000 grit sandpaper going against the grain to evenly polish this out. You don't need to remove the trigger assembly to do this but I would, and it's simple enough. Make sure to clean everything well afterwards.

You can go further by removing the sear block housing and lightly polishing the contact points on the sear.

They key to everything I've mentioned is- lightly. You can always remove more material but if you remove too much on the first go, you're buying new parts. Less is more. I've done the Apex install on my own M&P and wasn't floored by the results so I took my old parts and did these polishing techniques. After installing the factory parts and going to the range I regret dropping $90 on the Apex kit, though I respect their engineering efforts and many others swear by the parts.

 

[touchoneoff]

How is your shooting while using the distal joint of your trigger finger? I have large hands, so on most of my pistols, I use the distal joint of my finger, instead of the "pad" of the finger tip.