casting the 358156
- Thread starter Erv
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OFT
Member
It works just fine. The secret is getting the mold hot and keeping it that way or the shoulders will be rounded.
Skip Sackett
US Veteran
Erv,
I had one of these molds and had good success with it. I have been moving to Elmer Keith style bullets for most of my molds and have gotten rid of the mold you asked about.
If you are having trouble with the mold filling out, you might want to go to Lowes or Menards and get 1lb of solid lead free solder to throw into the alloy. It will help with fill out.
FWIW
p.s. Welcome to the forum!
I had one of these molds and had good success with it. I have been moving to Elmer Keith style bullets for most of my molds and have gotten rid of the mold you asked about.
If you are having trouble with the mold filling out, you might want to go to Lowes or Menards and get 1lb of solid lead free solder to throw into the alloy. It will help with fill out.
FWIW
p.s. Welcome to the forum!
Clip-on wheel weights contain only about 0.5% tin. Get some 50/50 lead/tin bar solder or buy 5 lb of tin from Rotometals and bring the tin up to 1-2% for perfect mould fill-out. FYI, the Los Angeles Silhouette Club website, http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm, has a lot of great articles and data on the art of the cast bullet.
BUFF
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
One time about 25 years ago, I cast and sized about 1,500 of this bullet in it's hollowpoint form, over the course of a week. As you know, the Lyman hollowpoint pistol bullet moulds are single cavity. Man, was THAT tedious!
I had luck with just plain wheelweight metal with the solid version in a 2 cavity mould if ran hot, just under frosty bullet heat, and kept going steady to keep the mould hot, like OFT said, but I needed to add tin to get good bullets with the hollowpoint mould. I used 50/50 plumbers solder.
It's a very accurate bullet when cast properly. I think the gascheck makes a big difference.
I had luck with just plain wheelweight metal with the solid version in a 2 cavity mould if ran hot, just under frosty bullet heat, and kept going steady to keep the mould hot, like OFT said, but I needed to add tin to get good bullets with the hollowpoint mould. I used 50/50 plumbers solder.
It's a very accurate bullet when cast properly. I think the gascheck makes a big difference.
fiveinch27
Member
There are reasons people don't like Marvellux, but the small problems it makes can be dealt with easily enough. You have to do a little more cleanup when you use this stuff, but it does not produce combustible fumes. Its best attribute, however, is that it makes alloy pour like water and you get perfect mold fillout. I don't/won't cast without it!
pps
Member
The advise to keep the mold hot is good advise. Here are two bullets of this design. The one on the left was hotter than the one on the right. Almost pure lead (range scrap) air cooled. Not pictured was what it looked like when tin was added (much sharper edges).
Even the duds shot well. The last picture is expansion from hollow pointing this bullet when fired into rubber mulch at 1250fpps. As you can see, when hollowpointed, this bullet fairs well against the jacketed counterparts.
Even the duds shot well. The last picture is expansion from hollow pointing this bullet when fired into rubber mulch at 1250fpps. As you can see, when hollowpointed, this bullet fairs well against the jacketed counterparts.
I have a 4 cavity version of this mold I use but to be honest I don't really like it that well. It shoots fine but it's a gas check design and I have no need or desire for a gas check.
I keep watching the auctions for a Lyman non GC variation but given the prices I'll probably just buy the Lee version.
I keep watching the auctions for a Lyman non GC variation but given the prices I'll probably just buy the Lee version.
scattershot
Member
I cast this bullet, and use it without a gas check, with good results.
Gatofeo
Member
I have cast the 358156 for about 30 years.
No problems if you:
Keep the mold hot.
Use an alloy with enough tin
and ...
Smoke the mold. Take an old candle and light it. Use its flame to put a good layer of carbon all over in the cavity. The first few bullets may not fill out completely but they'll take excess soot with them.
After a few bullets, the soot will be deposited evenly in the mold and casting will be simple.
Smoking a mold is an old trick. Lee still recommends it for all its moulds.
No problems if you:
Keep the mold hot.
Use an alloy with enough tin
and ...
Smoke the mold. Take an old candle and light it. Use its flame to put a good layer of carbon all over in the cavity. The first few bullets may not fill out completely but they'll take excess soot with them.
After a few bullets, the soot will be deposited evenly in the mold and casting will be simple.
Smoking a mold is an old trick. Lee still recommends it for all its moulds.
shadowrider
Member
I've got this mold. I personally think it's the best mold design out there for .38/.357. The two different crimp grooves are fantastic. If not loading hot just leave the GC off.
Like others have said make sure you have tin in your mix and keep it just under frosting temp and you're GTG.
Like others have said make sure you have tin in your mix and keep it just under frosting temp and you're GTG.
