CCW revolver? Model 19, 66… I’m just not sure. Ditching the SP101 idea…

I believe that any carry gun will need frequent maintenance and up keep. Even stainless will corrode though not as quickly as carbon steel. In my opinion what is most important in a carry gun is mechanical correctness. I think the suggestion made above to buy a used revolver that already shows wear is an excellent one. You will save money on the purchase price and you won't depreciate the gun so long as you properly care for it. Then too, I would much rather own a 19-3 or a 66-1 than S&W's current products.
 
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I have carried this 19-4 for over 20 years...rain / shine... cold /hot.
I use a Roy"s Lobo enhanced pancake and speed loader pouch on a Comtac Kevlar lined belt at 3:30. I carry all my side arms OWB

It is no longer blue...it has character.

I much prefer blued revolvers and actually hate stainless. The above 19 looks terrific!

I used to live in a very humid environment, and carried a blue steel 36 in an ankle holster for many years. Stepped in rain puddles, snow drifts etc frequently and am not at all fussy about gun maintenance- the blue herald up very well, and I won’t ever have a stainless gun if a blue version is available

They hold up much better than you think

I do have one friend who has ridiculously acidic sweat, and if he even touches his guns metal surface and doesn’t wipe it down in short order in a couple days he will get a rust spot on it. That is pretty rare however.
 
I have a 2 1/2 inch SP101 with the bobbed hammer and the trigger is very nice. Maybe mine is the exception, but I’d carry it any day if I were carrying a revolver. Also have a GP100 3” that is excellent. I love my Smiths absolutely but very much enjoy the Rugers also. EDC is a smith 3914.
 
Have you considered having a trigger job done on your Ruger?

Have you considered a spring kit? I have a 2.25" DAO SP101 and the trigger on it is on par with my 696 that I sent into S&W for their Master Trigger Package.

This SP101's trigger is very smooth with no stacking from start to "bang." I measured it years ago and it averages 8#, 1oz. (Unlike my .22 SP101 I just shot at the range. It takes BOTH hands to pull that double action trigger. :D)
 
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If you are looking for an M66 for carry, any prelock M66 will serve you well. I would also consider a M65 with a 3 inch barrel. IMO it is one of the best carry revolver’s S&W ever created.
 
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You will not have to worry about sweat on a a blued gun if you apply some car wax to the side of the gun that will be closest to your body, or if you oil it very lightly every week.
 
Being dead serious here: Get a Taurus. That way, you won't be out a small fortune when the cops have to confiscate it.

It will also be less likely you will have to send it back to the manufacturer for warranty work after firing a few rounds and you notice the barrel is not screwed on right, or the barrel/cylinder gap measures .008” on one side and .030” on the other.
 
Long time ago I got this 65-2 'Ladysmith' someone dragged behind a car.. or whatever.. I had it bead blasted ($30!) and added a orange insert to the front sight. Yea I got it cheap back then.

Now since it has been altered I guess I could pack it... hmmm I might get it out and do an action job on it and slicken it up like I just did my 66-4 2.5 inch snub.

It is the one at the top of the photo..
 

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Having carried a blued gun nearly daily for a long period of time in Florida, I agree that it is just about impossible to keep rust off. I prefer either a hard chrome finish or stainless steel. The 2 1/2 inch revolvers only minor drawback is the short extractor rod that makes emptying the cylinder more difficult than a 3" or 4" revolver with a full length extractor. For double action shooting, a smooth trigger face tops one with grooves. I carried a model 66 2 1/2" in an IWB holster for years. I carried it in a front semi-crossdraw holster. It was easy to access and keep track of, but was very uncomfortable when seated, as in a car. I wore a t-shirt with a Guayabera shirt. It concealed the revolver well and the single pouch speed loader and case. I used what is now, formally Bill Rogers, Safariland Split Six Single Speedloader pouch.
 
S&W developed the Chiefs Special with concealed carry in mind. My Baby Chiefs gets the nod for glove box/console carry, then gets stuck in my pocket in a suede pocket holster when I need it on my person. If it were for constant, on the person carry, the Model 60 with its rust resistant properties would get the nod. My Model 60-4 has a lugged 3” barrel and an adjustable sights, so I need to be a little more picky about a holster. I’m nowhere near as big as Shaquille, so for concealment, size does matter! ;)
Froggie
 
I have several Ruger revolvers and didn't like the triggers in any of them so I worked on them. Wolff Gunsprings, and some 1600 grit emery cloth did wonders for the triggers. They all are not awesome shooters both single and double action. I even worked on all of my Smith & Wessons and Dan Wessons to make shoot them much smoother. I have way too much time on my hands.
 
I’ve decided to get my CCW for numerous reasons I didn’t have until recently (not to mention the world going to hell lately). I bough a new SP101 to fill my revolver slot on my CCW, but I just cannot stand the trigger.

I have a 19-7 snubnose that is only 5 oz heavier than the SP101, and I’m pretty large, so I’m not concerned about the extra weight. I’m thinking OWB at 4 oclock for carry purposes, but honestly will only use it as a glovebox and trail gun, so holster and position aren’t my biggest concerns right now.

I’m mainly worried about body sweat vs the blueing, so I am thinking that a 66 snubnose might be a better choice due to the stainless construction.

I’m looking for input from guys that carry, or have some wisdom to impart. Also, I may just put the 19-7 on my cert for now and swap out to a 66 if / when I find one.

What might be a good version of the 66 to look for where I won’t destroy a collectible by carrying it but will still have a great gun without MIM parts?

Could some S&W .357 snub other than the 66 also serve the same purpose?

The 66 would take less maintenance to protect the metal. I give this advice to new ccw guys, even guys who can shoot. Under stress, people can get sloppy and small errors add up. Buy a gun with high capacity and a decent barrel length like a g19. Also if your g19 drops, you won’t care.
 
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Given that a number of issues have been covered in this thread, I will offer some opinions (opinions = YMMV) based on uniform and plain clothes duty carry, and off duty/retirement carry, revolvers to semi-autos.

My career was spent in a jurisdiction located on the pacific coast, which means salt water and air. Thus, when stainless steel came along it was a revolutionary step. Stainless of course is not rust proof, but it is sufficiently corrosion resistant, so with reasonable care that is no longer a concern.

Size/weight is a major issue. Bigger, heavier means more capacity and more comfortable (thus accurate) shooting. But that weight and bulk also means less comfort carrying and more challenge to conceal. Obviously a J frame S&W (especially an air weight) is going to be more comfortable to carry, but at the cost of limited capacity in a firearm that is difficult and uncomfortable to shoot relative to heavier, bulkier options.

My department issued 2 1/2" S&W model 66s for plain clothes and command personnel carry. Many allied agencies did the same. Those who were exposed to this firearm concluded that a short barrel K frame was the ideal compromise of capacity, power, handling and concealability. I agreed. Our department had experienced a lack of reliability with our S&W 66s, which lasted until we transitioned to the S&W 686 for patrol division carry. At least then there were then fewer K frames to be problematic. I wanted to buy a revolver of this configuration but without the problems. so I bought a stainless 2 3/4" Ruger Security Six. This was the solution I was seeking. Great revolver that I still have.

Time passes. Before we transitioned to semi-auto pistols, we went through a period where members could purchase and carry their own semi-autos, with a fairly wide choice being allowed. I was given the opportunity to carry a second generation S&W 9mm pistol that the courts had awarded to the department. IIRC it was a model 467. This was a compact 3 1/2" pistol with an 12 round magazine capacity via a double stack magazine. The action was terrible. But that double stack grip fit my large hand perfectly, so even though I could never own it, I paid a gunsmith to give it an action job. The result was perfection. With that compact high capacity pistol with the large grip frame and smooth action I really chewed up the center of the targets during department shoots. I don't know how that pistol would have shot from a Ransom rest relative to any of the revolvers I used, but in my hands at our 25 yard maximum distance it grouped tighter, more easily and quicker.

The transition to Glocks, the full size 40 cal (can't recall the model number) meant the S&W went back to evidence. But it was too good to just give up, so I bought the then-current third generation iteration, the 6906. I had the same gunsmith do the same action job, and I got the same results.

I carried that pistol into retirement until I bought a Glock 26. The Glock was even more compact and lighter, albeit with slightly less capacity, and probably even tougher, although I never abuse my firearms. The double stack grip and relatively light, though different, trigger gave me similar handling characteristics to my 6906.

I still carry that Glock. I have not found anything more suitable, but I have not been looking either. The 6906 is now a very enjoyable range pistol. I still believe S&W hit it out of the ball park with that design.

So, to wrap up all this. Here are my thoughts: If I were to return to carrying a revolver, I think the K frame size/weight is the ideal compromise between capability and bulk. If one chooses a revolver, any revolver, the issue of capacity has to addressed. During my career I lived and worked in an area with a lot of gang activity, so I carried one, and sometimes two, speed loaders. If I were going to carry a S&W J frame, I would put a Hogue Monogrip on it so my large hands could hang on to it when shooting, or I would go with a Ruger SP 101. As much as I like the S&W L frames, and I have one (albeit customized so for paper punching only) we are getting into size/weight creep relative to the K frames.

But unless one simply can't abide a semi-auto, a compact semi-auto, like the Glock 26/27, or other similar since numerous are available, seems the ideal combination of fire power, weight and concealability.

The challenge that each individual must resolve is the contradiction between shooting ability, comfort and concealability, weighed against too much gun and thus the easy rationalization to not carry it.

It is of no benefit if one's EDC is left at home, so that must dictate the final decision.
 
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RetCapt.

Tried the Glock 26..... twice.... just didn't fit my hand as well as a 6906 or 3913 w/ Hogue wood grips (arched back straps on both). So I've continued to stick with the Smiths for the past 26 years or so since my last 26!

EDC guns are carried a lot .... but I've never had to shoot mine in anger in my 43 years of concealed carry...... the "Goldilocks" gun after shooting every revolver from a 12oz. 2" 337PD to a 6" N-frame is the 3" K-frame Model 65 or 66.
Along with one or two Safariland Comp II speedloaders..... in a "Split-six" belt pouch(s).
 
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