Chainsaw advice please

[Capt Steve]

I've decided my toy chest isn't full enough and it (and I), need a chainsaw. I have an old electric model that has very little power and a very dull chain....pretty close to worthless at this point. My immediate need is to take down a 20' Willow tree in my front yard that failed to survive the big freeze last February. Second, with all the camping we do the ability to turn long chunks of firewood into shorter logs will probably pay for it in a short period of time.

I think something small, light and hopefully around or under $100 will meet my needs, or am I dreaming? What brands, size, features etc., should I be looking for and where (probably the internet), should I shop? Also having only used the old electric a few times many years ago what sort of operating/safety tips do you folks have for me? Frankly they scare me to death and will be very conservative and careful in my use. I know good gloves, boots and eye protection are a must but would love some tips from you chainsaw vets.

 

[bobelk99]

I own 5 chainsaws, and have cut hundreds of trees into 'little pieces'.

My advice is hire someone to cut the dead tree, and buy a bow saw for shortening the 'long' pieces of firewood.

A decent chainsaw is not $100. Lowes, Home Depot and such have Poulans that will last you a lifetime, if you can keep them in condition that they will start. Stihl is about the cheapest brand that will start dependably, and costs closer to $250. Then there is oil, gas can, file and a case.

It is my understanding that the average cut from a chain saw requires 40 sutures to close.

 

[OKFC05]

If all you have is a dull chain, get the chain sharpened for a few bucks.
(I sharpen my own)
Otherwise, see the post above.

 

[Damn Yankee]

I Second bobelk99.

 

[HCD]

I've decided my toy chest isn't full enough and it (and I), need a chainsaw. I have an old electric model that has very little power and a very dull chain....pretty close to worthless at this point. My immediate need is to take down a 20' Willow tree in my front yard that failed to survive the big freeze last February. Second, with all the camping we do the ability to turn long chunks of firewood into shorter logs will probably pay for it in a short period of time.

I think something small, light and hopefully around or under $100 will meet my needs, or am I dreaming? What brands, size, features etc., should I be looking for and where (probably the internet), should I shop? Also having only used the old electric a few times many years ago what sort of operating/safety tips do you folks have for me? Frankly they scare me to death and will be very conservative and careful in my use. I know good gloves, boots and eye protection are a must but would love some tips from you chainsaw vets.

OK a Tip, take your hunert bucks and pay someone else to do the work and leave you the "what you are calling fire wood" willow is the worst wood to burn on the planet. You would be better off paying someone the hunert bucks to take down the tree and haul away the junk and then spend another 30 bucks on good fire wood. Problem solved.---- Safe, and you are going to spend the money anyway, clean, and you got real wood for camping. If you don’t have the time to learn to use a saw then the best advice is not to use one at all. Is your welfare or a close friend or worse yet a child or wife's safety worth a hunert bucks?? I didn't think so. If your saw is dull, you don’t got a clue, spend the hunert bucks like I said. Good Luck to ya.


Edit to add:I see a lot of folks got posted before I made it in, but one other thing. And I know you did not mean it this way, but any one that would refer to a chainsaw or gun as a toy in real terms "as in useing it" does not have the right mind set to be useing one or the other. Again good luck to ya.

 

[writerinmo]

I have a McCulloch 16" gas model that I bought at Walmart four years ago. Not too expensive, and a lot of people talk bad about them but I've had a few over the years and they generally kept working fine until I did something to screw them up. I still have one that I somehow smashed the oil tank on, runs fine, just won't hold oil for the chain and I'm too challenged to rig something up. Thinking about givin the dang thing to the step son, he can put the motor on a bicycle or somethin...

Anywho, I digress... I've cut wood for three winters with this little yellow bugger. No massive redwoods or anything, just oak and hickory and some cedar to keep my shop warm when I work in it every day. The only thing I've done is sharpen the chains (Always keep a few on hand so you can just change them out if they dull while you are cutting, sure beats sharpening one on the fly!) and I mix a bit of Stabile in the last bit of mix that goes into it when its going to get stored. I pour out that gas (Maybe not now, with it near $4 a gallon here!) and fill with fresh mix, hit the primer bulb six times, choke it and it starts second pull most times, long as I give it a good pull and don't halfway do it.

Lots of peeps will talk bad about them, consider them the Hi Point of chainsaws, but thats ok with me. I aint a lumberjack, if they cut me a cord of wood a year and last me five-six years I got my money outta it many times over!

 

[ridewv]

My preference is Stihl, I believe they start around $190. Were I looking for a light use but good quality saw the other two brands I may consider are Husgvarna and Echo.
The fact you say "they scare me to death and will be very conservative and careful in my use. I know good gloves, boots and eye protection are a must" tells me you should have no problem using one responsibility.

Tips? The closest I came to an accident with my saws was backing away from a tree as it was falling and almost tripping (in a hole covered with leaves). The chain was still spinning when the bar came within a few inches of my leg. So I always look closely at the footing conditions.
Don't allow the chain oil reservoir to run out and don't ever let the spinning chain contact any dirt and it'll last a long time.

 

[m657]

We had a huge wind blow down a large locust tree one year. I had a brand new Sears Best electric chain saw, and 40 years cutting experience.

The little electric saw was amazing, and handled all but the largest trunk. I did wear out 2 chains. Locust is a VERY hard wood.

They must be kept sharp.

Santa had brought the electric model because I had taken a health-related hiatus for a few years, from cutting our fire wood.

Willow is similar to cotton wood, in that if you keep it dry it will burn. However, it would take a LARGE pile to make it worth $100 for firewood, IMHO.

If you're going to cut more firewood, get a decent gas saw, such as the Stihl 'Ranch Boss'. Way better than an electric and will last a LOT of seasons with proper care.

With proper care, my electric model wore out in 2 years easy use AFTER the Big Cut on the locust tree.

And take time to learn how to run one properly, including the safety gear.

$100 will get a decent set of accessories. It will be hard to find a decent multi-season saw for under $250-350 new.

 

[Capt Steve]

OK, lots of good advice coming in here as I knew it would. My bad for the toy box reference but please give me a break, I know they are not toys. I have operated just about every power tool known to man without serious mishap and since no one is born with the knowledge am confident that I too can master running one safely. This will be the second (and last), willow tree I've lost and the last one burned just fine once it dried out. This one wont be much of a wood source, not all that big, but at the price of firewood I'll burn it.

Often while camping there is almost unlimited wood, nice dry seasoned, to be had for free if you can just cut it down to manageable lengths. Nothing large mind you mostly 4 - 6" in diameter. This would be the primary use for the saw, won't be using it often or doing a lot volume - just enough to keep the campfire blazing every night. In the past I've used my 19 volt skill saw but it doesn't last very long between charges and the bow saw works fine but is slow and frankly a lot of work. Been looking on the net and yes they are a tad pricier than I thought, but then what isn't. Hope this clarifies what I'm looking for, keep that good advice/info coming and thank you! (o;

 

[Rule 303]

The Wildland Fire Crew where I was a National Park Ranger always used Stihl Chain Saws. Outstanding saws and keeping the blade sharp is a must for safety.

Jungle Work

 

[BEARMAN]

Stihl and Husqvarna....the two best chainsaws on the planet.

Go small, for your needs and you'll be fine.

 

[chief38]

I have had two chainsaws over the years. The first one was a Homelite which was nothing more than a "boat anchor". I could never get the damn thing started. I got rid of that piece of junk and bought a Stihl. The Stihl performed absolutely flawlessly for the 15 years that I owned it, and the only reason I sold it was because I no longer had any trees left to cut down or trim. I sold it to my Landscaper 15 years after purchasing it for just about what I paid for it. I had kept it in immaculate condition and we were both very happy! I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND a Stihl, and if I ever was in the market for a new one, it would be a Stihl.

Regards,
Chief38

 

[k22fan]

I only have experience with Stihl chain saws. I've stuck with Stihl because I trust them and figure $100 saved buying an inexpensive brand would just get eaten up in repair bills. Besides I don't have patience for a PITA power tool that won't start. I have a 27" which is the size I'd keep if I could only have one. However, my 16" gets used 10 times as much because I'm mostly gathering odd ball fire wood like you describe.

I had guidance from older men learning to use one and that may be the best way, but I learned to shoot from books and there's no reason you can't learn saws from books as well.

For starters, sharpen the chain you have. You have to touch up a chain every now and then in use and its not that big of a deal.

Tree farming, making plywood, lumber mills and logging are about a third of the economy in the county I live in. I've not worked in the woods, but I've met a couple of men who lost use of one arm using chain saws to earn a living. I mention them as a caution. If profesionals get bit you need to take safe operation seriously. Getting trees to fall in the direction you want is an art. I wouldn't start out falling one that could hit your house. To empasize that, I'll also mention that long before chain saws existed, my grandfather died under a tree as it came down. Despite all that, your automobile will remain more dangerous than any saw.

Best Regards,
Gil

 

[peyton]

I have a Husqvarna, starts right up and I like it. Stihl is very good also, spend the money now, and you won't regret it later when the POULAN (my friends call it a pulled on and never starts) or other cheap brand fails.

 

[srgvaz]

I haven't seen anything good in that price range, and the new quality Chinese, American assembled models are not comparable to what they were a few years ago.
I had four trees that barley made the freeze of 2010 and after spending time and money on them all year it seemed like they were going to make it, but the 2011 freeze took care of that idea. Since my chainsaw was taken a few years back I decided to use my AX's on them and it went great. If you have a saw you could maintenance it or sell it to fund the purchase of a new one. If a new saw is something you will use regularly then spend the money on a good one if you keep the maintenance up on it should last.

 

[zercool]

I've got a Stihl MS180 (now called the MS181, I believe) with a 14" bar, and it handles 90% of anything I'm likely to throw at it. For clearing brush and small-to-middlin' blowdowns and limbs, it's wonderful. Most dealers have them new around $200. Buy a couple extra chains, files for sharpening, eye/ear/hand protection, and CHAPS. Labonville is reputedly the best out there, but even the $50 Stihl or Husqvarna chaps from your local dealer are going to work well - certainly better than denim.

I keep all my saw stuff in a milk crate - chaps, helmet, gloves, a bottle of bar oil, a spare chain, spare plug, scrench, two bottles of fuel, a couple plastic wedges, and a round file. I can grab the saw and the crate and know I have everything I need for a half-day of sawing (then I'd have to re-fill the fuel bottles).

 

[26Ford]

Capt. Steve, thanks for your service. IMHO, a saw in your price range $100 or less, is best classified as one that is used or pre-owned. The good names have already been mentioned, but I would like to add, some of us have had very good luck with the Poulan saws. Also, believe it or not the Craftsman brand is worth looking at. Sears continues to sell them, simply because they are a good saw, not a Stihl, not a Husky, but a good saw. My neigbhor came over last year with a Sears Craftsman saw he found, yes found. By the date code, it was from 1979. Case, saw, instructions, everything just left for the sanitation people to pick up. Long story short, a new spark plug, I cleaned the air filter, some fresh gas-n-oil mix, some initial carb adjustments, and it started in 2 pulls. He then replaced the chain, and continues to cut Florida Palms with that old saw almost daily. That in and of itself is no easy feat. Any parts needed are readily available at any Sears parts center.

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

Well they ARE big boy "toys" and everybody knows precisely what you meant. A good Poulan for $150-160 at Lowes will be just the ticket. Regarding sharpening the chains-I tried and to tell you the truth, it made more sense just to buy another chain. My chain saw is used for the occasional work on a tree branch, but it really shines after a hurricane.
Other big boy toys include, but are not limited to:
Pressure Washers,
String trimmers,
SCAG mowers cause they give you a cool liscense plate that says "SCAG" to put on the front of your wife's Toyota,
Yelow Power tools of all types.
Wet tile cutting saws (from the tool rental store).
Your own Welding machine (electric is OK-diesel posered is MUCH better)
Bead blasting cabinet.


Mastery of tools that can seriously maim the user is how you earn your various "man" merit badges. Bonus Points are added if you can figure out how to use them on your own without reasing the instructions.
If this is not possible, then you can still get style points by throwing away the directions in front of your wife and then retrieving them later under cover of darkness.

 

[m657]

....also for increasing the electric saw use gambit: There's been times I put my Honda generator in the lawn tractor trailer and moved out of range of the power cords, still running the electric saw....which works well with small stuff and has all the advantages of electric power....

Sharpening chains is a true skill. Even at best despite years of attempts, I can barely manage to touch them up enough to make it worth the effort. Multiple chains are easy to change and I take 'em to the shop for their ministrations @ about $2 per chain.

 

[venomballistics]

I grew up with logging.
keep it out of your leg
(ya wanted chainsaw advice ... right?)
seriously though we have a long list of brand names out there many of them are sworn by blindly like car brands.
In all honesty, Ive rarely seen those usual brands used in a commercial capacity.
they dont hold up.
Now I doubt your going to spend the summer clear cutting an 80 acre plot for sub divisions ... the housing market sucks anyhow so it isnt going to happen for a while.
So look at all brands to include a few "Oddballs" like Partner/ Pioneer and Alpina ... actualy pick the things up and hold em like your using them to cut things down or knocking limbs off your latest victim.
take home the one that kicks your butt the least since you'll be swinging that beast around no matter who made it, and its your back that might pay to have that coveted johnsred.
Look for a comfortable, wieldey saw and stay away from Poulan and craftsman since they are the same cheap saw.

 

[bitstream]

Lots of good suggestions here, let me just add this: Don't get rid of your electric saw. Get a new chain for it (they are pretty cheap, why waste all that time sharpening one?) and keep it on your shelf. I couldn't figure out why anyone would ever want an electric until the first time I had to cut a 5" thick branch that was sticking out over my house. I had to climb up an extension ladder 20' in the air while holding a running chain saw and then maneuver it around to cut above my head with my arm fully extended. I suddenly realized exactly why an electric would be a good idea. I could have just had one of my kids plug it in as soon as I was in position and unplug it the second I was done.

 

[venomballistics]

The adds by google function reminded me of something else I took for-granted.
Chainsaw safety chaps.... the bullet proof vest of the log enforcement community.
As I stated I grew up with logging.
As a result Ive seen what saws can do to things other than trees, as well as the logistical nightmare of getting a felled man to medical care from a remote location without any way of communicating a dire situation.... Never saw anyone lost to such an accident but I have seen "real freaking close".
Safety chaps were, and remain a godsend.
they are lightweight articles of clothing filled with strands of kevlar, and or ballistic nylon.
When you try to cut your leg off (while the chaps are installed of course) these long fibers get pulled out by the saw teeth to bind up the saw. A fraction of a second worth of progress results in a saw locked up like a bank vault.
Ive seen them work.
The result is greatly preferred.
The inventor thereof should get a Nobel prize.
Get some and use them

 

[truckemup97]

Steve, I've gotten good service for several years out of my Craftsman. I think it was about $140 OTD on sale. 16" with a hard plastic case. I used it for several weeks cutting other people's trees after our giant ice storm, and a few hours or a day here and there over the last three years. For fairly light use, it's been great. I try to start and run it at least every six months, and put fresh gas in it once a year. My weedeater also uses gas/oil mix, and there's usually a quart or so left over from a mixed gallon each year. I just put it in the car, fill up the car, then re-fill the mix can.

All that said, I got really good use out of my electric for years. I would have stuck with it had it not been for the ice storm. Can you run that electric off your generator? That might work around the campsite....

 

[cass]

Everybody needs a chainsaw in their toy collection. I keep a cheap electric (Remington) for use around the shop. My local small engine dealer handles both Stihl and Echo. Last Spring I wanted to get rid of my useless Poulan and get one that would actually start. I asked the dealer for his recommendation, and he surprised me. His recommendation was the Echo (which I purchased). He said that until about four years ago, Stihl was the best, but they changed their manufacturing process, and they are a lesser quality saw than before. The Echo kicks ***. One thing he suggested was to remove the spark resister screen - it will run longer and stronger without it. He's right. Don't buy too much saw.

 

[Pasifikawv]

I might crank my saw up 3 or 4 times per year. I have it just for the occasional tree that falls around the house or needs to come down. With big trees or tricky fells, I call the pros. I didn't want to spend big dollars on a Stil/Husq for such little use. I settled on a 16" Snapper from Wally World because it was cheap and I was poor. To my surprise, the thing starts with ease. I have had it almost 10 years now and it still runs like a champ. Had it out this past Sunday for pine that fell in the back yard. Prime, choke, 3rd pull: start. I think I paid around $150 for it.

The local pawn shop occasionally gets some used, but good condition Stil/Husq's quite regularly. You might want to check your neighborhood pawn shop to see if you can snag a quality brand, lightly used, and not too expensive chainsaw.

 

[Rangerpat]

Capt Steve,
If you really want a chainsaw, buy from a local dealer who sells and SERVICES chainsaws. I have been using Stihl powersaws for over 25 years and have also used Husqvarna saws on the job. They are both excellent saws, find out which brand is most available in your area and buy that brand. Remember, you get what you pay for, so pay the extra money and get a good one. Always wear all of your personal protection equipment when cutting.

 

[Jst1mr]

You can't go wrong with Stihl, Husqvarna, or Jonsered. Something you haven't heard yet: I advise buying it at a chainsaw dealer, NOT a big box. They will be happy to advise you on the proper and safe use of your new saw and even demonstrate proper cutting technique. AND they will have all the proper safety equipment: hardhat w/face shield and hearing protection, good gloves, and safety chaps...YES, get and use the chaps, they can save your life- it does NOT count for man-points to not use the proper safety equipment (the pros DO). And, oh, by the way, please read the manual, including all those "obvious" safety warnings.

 

[cussedemgun]

The first 4 rules in maintaining a chainsaw:

1) check the spark plug & if it doesn't say Bosch or NGK, throw it away & get one that does. This is true of a new saw also. (always carry a spare plug & change after the 3rd or 4th pull).

2) mix your gas with a proper measure & pay close attention to the oil ratio. "That looks about right" won't do for a good running saw.

3) mix small amounts (1 gal.) of gas & keep it fresh.

4) Buy & use "bar & chain oil". Pay attention to bar oil use & if it slows down, clean the bar & oil delivery holes.

I have 5 saws & cut 10+/- cords of wood each year. They very from a Makita elec. to a Husky 4 foot model with 2 Stihl & a Mac in there too.

The Makita elec. is 12" bar, 1350 watts & a serious tool. If you have a generator, I would reccomend sticking with a good quality electric. You will get simpler maintenance, easier starts, & it will do for the stuff you are cutting.

Jim

Edit to add; To clean a spark plug, use a fine bristle wire brush & your bore cleaner. Flush with solvent & blow dry.

 

[k22fan]

[...] I had to cut a 5" thick branch that was sticking out over my house. I had to climb up an extension ladder 20' in the air while holding a running chain saw and then maneuver it around to cut above my head with my arm fully extended. [...]

I was taught to never saw above my head like that because if the saw kicks back you can't stop it from coming back into you. One of the men I met who had lost partial use of an arm said this happened to him after half a lifetime using chain saws and much of that professionally. The saw cut into his shoulder and scapula.

Chain saws very seldom kick back and I'm sure you could get away with it quite a few times but If I could not get into a safer position than what you describe I'd call a tree topper. I'll leave taking manly risks to CajanLawyer. I'm sure he can afford excelent medical insurance so he's mostly risking someone else's money.

Gil

 

[Capt Steve]

Plan "B"

I appreciate all the good info. Most of you folks obviously do some serious cutting, way beyond what my needs will dictate. I've decided to go to Plan "B": I am going to take the electric into a shop and have them install a new chain and sharpen the old one for a spare. It cut pretty well when it was new and I am sure with a sharper chain it will git er done. Out camping I can just take one of my Honda's along in the back of the truck and the heavy duty 12 gauge extension cord to shorten up the long pieces. With the money I'm saving I'm headed down to Harbor Freight to buy a decent axe/maul and a splitter for the bigger chunks. Thanks again for all of the good advice and concern for my safety. You guys are the best!