Chamfer pistol cases

BennyS

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Is it a problem or no no to size and chamfer pistol brass( 45ACP, 9mm) than run them through the expander die?
 
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There is absolutely no need to chamfer (or deburr) 9mm or .45acp brass. Just size, then expand, insert primer, add powder, and seat/crimp. Crimping is really just removing the "flare" from the expander step.
 
Is it a problem or no no to size and chamfer pistol brass( 45ACP, 9mm) than run them through the expander die?
You can if you want to, personally I think it's a waste of time and effort. I load over 50K per year and never do. It won't hurt anything.
 
A waste of time, but if you are going to do it, do so after resizing the case not before.

So folks size, trim, chamfer and debur straight cases like 38 , 357, 45 Colt.
 
I only chamfer and deburr cases that are going to have cast bullets in them.
The acts of sizing, belling, crimping and firing will smooth out the mouth "naturally" along the way.
Length trimming (and then a slight deburr) is much more important IMHO.

===
Nemo
 
BennyS, I don't consider it a waste of time.

I resize all handgun cases, general after or before resizing, it makes no difference. It removes the sharp edge and helps prevent lead/copper shaving when seating the bullet. After they been flared, it will be harder to get a good chamfer in the mouth edges.

Chamfering also helps remove tiny nicks and such that can lead to mouth cracks. Ask any good machinist why they chamfer holes after they've been drilled. Ever seen cracks extending from one rivet to another? And where do the majority of cases crack? From the mouth down.
 
The only handgun brass I have ever trimmed/chamfered/deburred is my .44 special brass for my .44 special Blackhawk. I only did it so the brass was consistent. It's not really necessary.
 
BennyS, was your question about whether or not to expand and flare the case?
With jacketed bullets and a chamfer you probably wouldn't need to.
If you can seat the bullet without collapsing the case you are OK.
 
Instructions with my Lee dies warn against chamfering any cases. The de-burring tool is for de-burring not chamfering. Chamfering weakens the case mouth causing premature splitting at the case mouth. The flairing tool, if properly used, will prevent peeling lead or copper from bullets.
 
Instructions with my Lee dies warn against chamfering any cases. The de-burring tool is for de-burring not chamfering. Chamfering weakens the case mouth causing premature splitting at the case mouth. The flairing tool, if properly used, will prevent peeling lead or copper from bullets.

With close to 40 years of reloading behind me, all I can say is chamfering both rifle and handguns case has worked for me, and a split case mouth is a rarity. I suppose one could chamfer a case mouth to nothingness and make it split, but it hasn't happened to me.

Make your own choice, it's your cases. I know what works for me.
 
As a rule l dont chamfer, but the other day l was loading some 44 Speer 240gr lead swc bullets.. l noticed a bit of lead shaving during seating them..So l got my RCBS deburring tool out and gave each case a couple of spins..Problem solved.. No more lead shaving...
 
Thanks everyone for responses and opinions.
I don't load lead bullets so I should be fine just sizing and expanding.
 
Instructions with my Lee dies warn against chamfering any cases. The de-burring tool is for de-burring not chamfering. Chamfering weakens the case mouth causing premature splitting at the case mouth. The flairing tool, if properly used, will prevent peeling lead or copper from bullets.

Actually the funnel shaped LEE tool does both. Turn it over and it chamfers.:):)

Lee Chamfer Deburring Tool
 
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