Changing Barrels??

[Coloradoluckydog]

I just got a Model 629-4 in trade. It came with a new 3 inch barrel. I was wondering how hard it is to switch out the barrels. Do I need special tools? Or is this something a gun smith should be doing? I posted this on other sites and my answers were all over the place. If it's to hard for me to switch back and forth, I'll probably just sell the 3inch.

 

[diamonback68]

It's not that simple and it's not something you should try on your own with say a hammer handle and a vice. That's a good way to warp a frame. I would get a competent gunsmith to do it.

 

[buckspen]

Sell the three inch barrel. S&W revolver barrels are not "quick change". The work requires specialized tools and there is always the risk of damaging the revolver's frame.
- Buckspen

 

[captainjohnsofd]

The frames without the barrel retaining pin are pressure fit with their barrels at the factory. Without the proper machinery the frame will be sprung. I did manage to bend the frame of an old Model 28 not too many years ago. This little mistake cost me a frame. Sell the 3" and be happy with the 4" barrel. A word to the wise- don't try it yourself.

 

[valkyriekl]

the barrels are torqued in pretty tight. You'd need a good bench-mounted vise, a special frame-wrench (DO NOT put something through the frame window; you'll likely end up bending the frame and ruining the gun), and a LOT of force. Also, in installing the barrel, the B/C gap must be set correctly, and the threads must be trimmed so that the barrel is 'clocked' correctly (so that the front sight is vertical).

I'd say it's not a job for just anyone to do - definitely for a good gunsmith.

Then there's the matter of swapping out the ejection rods and center pins - this isn't that difficult to do, but it should be done right, with the appropriate tools and techniques (a special clamp/wrench for the ejection rod, spent shell casings in at least three chambers to brace the extractor star, clockwise to loosen/counter-clockwise to tighten).

And finally, you'll need to move the locking pin, spring, and cross-pin from the 4" barrel to the 3" barrel, again requiring the correct tools (namely, a pin-punch and a mallet).

All in all, I'd recommend that if you really want this done, it would be best to send the gun back and have Smith & Wesson do the work.

 

[JRahal]

well

I'd say take into account if you plan on using for CCW, if so, then I would say PAY A good REVOLVERSMITH to change everything out and then sell the 4" barrel. seems you can't much beat a 3" barrel for CCW

Best
Jordan

 

[Coloradoluckydog]

Thanks for the info. I was hoping it would be something I could switch at will but obviously it's not. I'm just going to sell the 3 inch barrel and keep the 4 inch.

 

[diamonback68]

I was hoping it would be something I could switch at will.

If you want to swith barrels at will, oh forgive me lord, buy a Dan Wesson.

 

[Coloradoluckydog]

If you want to swith barrels at will, oh forgive me lord, buy a Dan Wesson.

....but I also wanted a quality weapon. Just saying....

 

[David Sinko]

Here is an example of some complicated barrel work. This 2" barrel was originally made for a short cylinder and was installed on my 625-4. You'll also need to be aware of front sight height. I don't know how the .44 Magnum behaves with 1" less barrel but you might need a taller front sight. You can see how tall mine needs to be with the adjustable rear. But I have a unique revolver that's a great shooter, so it was worth it to me. If you want the 3" barrel, I suggest you go for it. You'll definitely want to use a good gunsmith who knows what he is doing.

Dave Sinko

 

[153]

Thanks for the info. I was hoping it would be something I could switch at will but obviously it's not. I'm just going to sell the 3 inch barrel and keep the 4 inch.

You have chosen well!!!!