Changing main spring on L Frame revolver.
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It is really hard to hook the stirup without removing the side plate. It really isn't THAT HARD to remove the side plate if you have a decent set of screwdrivers and a non-marring hammer or even a wooden hammer handle to whack it with.
You can do it, but yes it is much more difficult especially if you've never had the plate off the gun so you know how everything fits.
Depends. I never removed the side plate on old K and L frames if all I was doing was putting a strutted mainspring and associated screw for competition. I just removed the grips and then switched the springs.
If I had more to do, then I removed the side plate.
I guess it depends on how hard and time consuming you find the two techniques.
Added: All my revolvers (except one 646) are from 1970 to 1990, and the springs are MUCH easier to get on and off than current manufacture. My 686-4 was easy!
If I had more to do, then I removed the side plate.
I guess it depends on how hard and time consuming you find the two techniques.
Added: All my revolvers (except one 646) are from 1970 to 1990, and the springs are MUCH easier to get on and off than current manufacture. My 686-4 was easy!
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The new MIM hammer stirrup is almost impossible to get the spring off of without taking the sideplate off. The forged and machined hammers are pretty easy because they have a much different stirrup.
The gun is from 1980's. Hope it's easier
Mine is from same time period. I will give it a try. I really like the smooth custom tunned action on that gun , just would like it a little heavier.Depends. I never removed the side plate on old K and L frames if all I was doing was putting a strutted mainspring and associated screw for competition. I just removed the grips and then switched the springs.
If I had more to do, then I removed the side plate.
I guess it depends on how hard and time consuming you find the two techniques.
Added: All my revolvers (except one 646) are from 1970 to 1990, and the springs are MUCH easier to get on and off than current manufacture. My 686-4 was easy!
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gnappi
Member
Taking the side plate off and putting it back on has never been an issue for me.
As somewhat of an aside, those who've never removed the sideplate from your guns for cleaning and lubrication are doing yourselves and your gun a great disservice-----that according to me, AND the folks who built your gun.
You can make it up to them by continuing to do nothing---and then buying a new gun. They'll love you for that!
Ralph Tremaine
It occurs to me somewhat belatedly, the only schedule for such ever published by the factory that I know of goes like this: "If a revolver is used daily, it should be oiled every month, and this is best accomplished by removing the side plate on the right hand side of the arm." They go on to tell you how "To do this without marring the frame, proceed as follows:"
I reckon we all know how to do this, and if not, then these few of their words should suffice: "Do not attempt to pry the sideplate off, as the frame will certainly be marred."
For those who do not use their revolver every day, a little extrapolation will make for a custom made to order schedule for your gun.
You can make it up to them by continuing to do nothing---and then buying a new gun. They'll love you for that!
Ralph Tremaine
It occurs to me somewhat belatedly, the only schedule for such ever published by the factory that I know of goes like this: "If a revolver is used daily, it should be oiled every month, and this is best accomplished by removing the side plate on the right hand side of the arm." They go on to tell you how "To do this without marring the frame, proceed as follows:"
I reckon we all know how to do this, and if not, then these few of their words should suffice: "Do not attempt to pry the sideplate off, as the frame will certainly be marred."
For those who do not use their revolver every day, a little extrapolation will make for a custom made to order schedule for your gun.
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3rdgeargrndrr
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Just do it right. Side plate needs to come off. The only hard part is sourcing the right screwdriver. Use the right screwdriver for this job.
gnappi
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There used to be a nice cased set of screwdrivers made especially for firearms. I still have mine.
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Do not get intimidated about removing the Side Plate. It is easy and not a big deal to do. DO NOT pry it off! Hit the grip Frame with a wooden hammer handle if you do not have a rubber or plastic mallet, it will just pop off.
John Patrick
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The wooden handle of a screwdriver works fine as well.
That's close enough for government work, but a little refinement might help:
Let's try this: Instead of "hit", let's say "tap"---more than once----tap-tap-tap. If nothing's happening, like you can't see the sideplate moving away from the frame a little bit, then TAP-TAP-TAP!!!
Next, yes it will "just pop off", but best it pops off under control----like so: Hold the gun, sideplate UP with your holding hand-----and tap-tap-tap with your tapping hand. Then, when it pops off, it'll be between the gun and your holding hand----instead of heading for the floor. Then you can lift it off, instead of hoping it doesn't get dinged when it hits whatever's down by your feet.
The next little problem is the hammer block in later guns (post-war): It's a loose piece, which is to say it isn't held in place by anything besides the sideplate; so when the sideplate pops off, it's free to go flying across the room and land underneath some very heavy, essentially unmovable object---just to make your life interesting. The gun will work fine without it, but it's there for a pretty good reason. You'll get the hang of putting it back where it belongs when the sideplate won't go back in place unless you do.
I reckon there's more than a few videos on the how-to on You Tube, so have a look at one. It'll make your life easier than mine was---way back when there was no You Tube, no internet, and no nothing else except for the realization the gun ain't going back together until you get it right. The good news is, if you do getting the sideplate off right (gently), the hammer block will still be sitting where it belongs---and where it needs to be put back----without any video.
Ralph Tremaine
ColumbusJBR
Member
I actually just tore apart my 686-6 for a little cleaning, and agree with what others have mentioned. With the new MIM stirrup, I can’t imagine how difficult, if even possible, it would be to remove and reinstall the hammer spring with the plate installed. It’s a pretty finite angle in which you can wiggle it in there. Even the older ones like yours would still be more hassle than it’s worth. I’d advise taking the 2 minutes to remove the plate.
Brownells sells a screwdriver set specifically to work on S&Ws. All the bits conveniently fit in the hollow handle. IMO, if you own more than 1 S&W revolver, that driver set (along with their rebound spring tool) is a small and well worth it investment. I’ve already forgotten what I paid for them, so it couldn’t have been that much, and I’ve used them dozens of times.
Brownells sells a screwdriver set specifically to work on S&Ws. All the bits conveniently fit in the hollow handle. IMO, if you own more than 1 S&W revolver, that driver set (along with their rebound spring tool) is a small and well worth it investment. I’ve already forgotten what I paid for them, so it couldn’t have been that much, and I’ve used them dozens of times.
I had forgotten about Brownells rebound spring tool. I had one for a good long time, but hadn't used it ever since the "Smithmaster" tool came along----see Smithmaster Tools.
I started off a looooooooooooong time ago using a S&W screwdriver with a little notch cut in the blade---worked fine. Then the Brownells tool came along, and I had to have one of those. It worked okay, if rather awkwardly. Then here comes the Smithmaster, and I've never looked back!!
Ralph Tremaine
I started off a looooooooooooong time ago using a S&W screwdriver with a little notch cut in the blade---worked fine. Then the Brownells tool came along, and I had to have one of those. It worked okay, if rather awkwardly. Then here comes the Smithmaster, and I've never looked back!!
Ralph Tremaine
ColumbusJBR
Member
I had forgotten about Brownells rebound spring tool. I had one for a good long time, but hadn't used it ever since the "Smithmaster" tool came along----see Smithmaster Tools.
I started off a looooooooooooong time ago using a S&W screwdriver with a little notch cut in the blade---worked fine. Then the Brownells tool came along, and I had to have one of those. It worked okay, if rather awkwardly. Then here comes theSmithmaster, and I've never looked back!!
Ralph Tremaine
Thanks for the info, I’ll have to check that out! I’ll be the 1st to admit the Brownells tool is certainly not perfect. It doesn’t work on modern J frames, and it’s still a little awkward to use - but much better than my previous method (dental pick, finger nails, lost springs and LOTS of cursing).
Three screws. Tap tap tap. The only parts that are slightly tricky are the hammer as it needs to be back far enough for the nose to clear the frame, you have to push thr hand back to clear the frame to pull the trigger, rebound slide spring takes a bit of practice to reinstall, the bolt spring is a bit tricky if you take the bolt out. If you take the hand out of the trigger or the DA sear off the hammer gettinh them back with their springs tight can be tricky. The thing about the hammer block is the loop has to be on rebound slide pin and dhoved then shoved all the way up, line the side plate slot up and slide the side plate up it and in place a light tap and put the screws in.
But there is usually no need to remove the bolt, the cylinder stop, the hand can be left on the trigger and the DA sear on the hammer 99% of the time.
Every true S&W revolver person really need to learn to disassemble and reassemble one. Once you have done it a couple times it becomes pretty easy. Revolver smiths are harder and harder to find.
You can find a working clunker 38 for under $300 and tear it apart, study it, dink with it, change springs, loose spring, curse it, love it. LEARN WITH IT
But there is usually no need to remove the bolt, the cylinder stop, the hand can be left on the trigger and the DA sear on the hammer 99% of the time.
Every true S&W revolver person really need to learn to disassemble and reassemble one. Once you have done it a couple times it becomes pretty easy. Revolver smiths are harder and harder to find.
You can find a working clunker 38 for under $300 and tear it apart, study it, dink with it, change springs, loose spring, curse it, love it. LEARN WITH IT
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Smith master tool . I made something similar, turned down the end of a screw drive until it fit in the hole of a rebound slide, then cut a slot in it wide enough to go over the pin, then I heated and put a double bend in mine. But mostly just hangs in a loop on my bench as I usually already have the screw driver out.
