Checkering metal

[Jebus35745]

Have a 25-2 at Andy Horvath to have the bbl cut to 3 1/2". He does a great job with the crown. It will have a Weigand sight base installed. I may round butt the gun, not sure yet. If I remove the grooves on the backstrap, how hard it to checker it for a custom look? Who sells the files to checker metal? Anyone have pics of checkered metal you had done? Thanks, Larry

 

[Hapworth]

Brave to take your first go at checkering on your custom revolver. I'd take some practice runs on scrap first. Here's the best online how-to I've found:

Blindhogg custom gunworks

 

[oldman10mm]

METAL CHECKERING FILES | Brownells

 

[Leonard]

Why not have Andy do the checkering?

 

[Derosa]

I agree with Hapworth. If you have no experience, and the post does not reflect that you do, I would think again and then measure twice. It is hard to replace custom work. After several decades of working with metal & machines & bloody fingers, I have learned to experiment on less than prime material. Good luck, sir.

 

[Goblin]

I checkered my custom competition 1911 and while it was a good first effort, I'm glad I didn't try it on a 25-2. I'd let Andy do it unless you take at least two practice runs on scrap. The fact that you're considering it must mean that you're good with handwork, as some people are. You still need some practice.

 

[rhmc24]

I've checkered several small steel areas such as hammer spurs using a graver rather than a file. If you intend to DIY I recco you do plenty of practice & develop your skill, whether by engraving or filing.

 

[Tom S.]

I believe most checkering done today, whether wood or metal, is done by machine. While someone with a lot of experience can do a great looking job by hand, it's very difficult and you would be hard pressed to beat a machine cut job.

 

[les.b]

I don't know who did the checkering on my 1925 Colt Army Special, but I like the look and feel. The hammer was also modified, and the front strap is checkered as well. Gun has a Colt modification stamp on it, so these might be factory work.



But, the best way to do it is probably with a mill. It would be really difficult to put in the required time with a file without at least a few missed strokes, and even a few flaws would be noticible.

Best Regards, Les

 

[Jebus35745]

It sounds harder then I originally thought but I figured it would take some skill and patients. I did body work on cars before I retired and some panels took time and patience to repair. I'm trying to keep costs down on this project, not sure what I'll do with the frame yet. Want to shoot it first, it will be a heavy barrel 3 1/2" version of the 27 and I like the look of them. Have access to a machine shop if needed. I'm hoping to reblue it myself also.

When I was there I gave Andy a model 15, a 22 cyl and a .32 PPC barrel. He'll make a .32 PPC gun with a 5" barrel for me. No rib on it, want the original rear sight and a Weigand front interchangeable sight base. He'll do the job completely. He made one for me in the past from a K-22, nice shooter. Larry

 

[gdogs]

A cross pattern like the example above would be much easier to accomplish then a 90 degree cut with straight lines down the backstrap. Generally speaking, the longer the line - the harder to keep straight. I've checkered some 1911's, all with the Marvel jig and they've come out good. Get a good work place magnifying lens. Take your time, and when you get tired or your eyes start having difficulty focusing - STOP. I found that about 30-45 minutes at a time was all I could do. The second you stop paying attention to what you're doing, you will screw up.

 

[Watchdog]

I don't know who did the checkering on my 1925 Colt Army Special, but I like the look and feel.

That's some beautiful work, and really makes those grips stand out even more. I like that a lot.

A question, if you know the answer. When the checkering was done, did the gun have to be reblued?

 

[bgrafsr]

Larry:
This photo shows the back of my 645 slide, that I hand checkered, just to modify it somewhat, and I liked the results.

 

[les.b]

That's some beautiful work, and really makes those grips stand out even more. I like that a lot.

A question, if you know the answer. When the checkering was done, did the gun have to be reblued?

WATCHDOG: I really don't know. I picked up the gun from a young man who inherited it from his grandfather. He said that his grandfather had bought it from a retired Baltimore Police Officer. No other information. It came with a set of Jay Scott imitation pearl stocks. I supplied the ivory, as I thought they would compliment each other. Note the custom hammer. Same kind of checkering. It must have been reblued after the custom checkering. Some day I'll letter it.



Also has the front sight subtly reconfigured. The Don Hume "Jordan" holster is not period, but I had several in my holster box, and it is a perfect fit. The gun must have also had a custom action job. Very accurate, and a sweet trigger pull. It is pretty, but gets shot, but well cared for.

Best Regards, Les

 

[les.b]

Larry:
This photo shows the back of my 645 slide, that I hand checkered, just to modify it somewhat, and I liked the results.

Bill: that is absolutely a fantastic job to have done by hand. Good workmanship. Really stunning.

Best Regars, Les

 

[Big Cholla]

Doing a good looking job of metal checkering by hand requires lot of practice effort, sharp checkering files, a vise that can be rotated both horizontally and vertically. The surface you are checkering should be at an optimum height for your arm/hand position. Good light and at least for me a head mounted magnifying device. My prior experience at gunsmithing was on custom rifles so I never learned to metal checker. When I switched to handgun (Colt 1911) I had to teach myself how to checker by hand on curved surfaces. I got a couple of de-milled frames of 1911's and a couple of revolver frames. I read several written articles on metal checkering and went to work. I spent far more time perfecting my skill than I could imagine, but I wanted to be able to do acceptable work before I offered the service to customers.

As stated, metal checkering takes concentration and patience. The second you become tired or irritated, quit for the day. I also found that I couldn't have pop music on the background radio as it is too distracting. I had to have classical music.

Two other items you need; a file brush and common white chalk. The brush will help keep your files clean and sharp and the chalk prevents the file from filling with fillings.

Layout the pattern with dykem and scratched guide lines. If you are on a long straight run put a steel straight edge along a start line and use that as a guide to your file to get the pattern started. I also found that frequent use of compressed air gave me a clean surface to work on. If you are checkering a place on a handgun that a hand surface will come in contact with, don't use too extreme of lines per inch. I found that 20 lpi were far too damaging to the human hand. I used 30 lpi on most of my work and sometimes went down to 40 lpi.

About all I do today in the use of checkering files is to resurface front and rear sights on certain handguns.