Chief’s Special vs. Centennial THINKING HELP NEEDED

[JamesD]

Greetings to All,

Background: My yin and yang are out of balance. Or maybe it’s my feng and my shui.
I am well armed (courtesy of the SIG Sauer semi-automatic pistol), but incomplete.
A man needs some wheelguns.
It’s in our DNA I think.

I have some wheelguns that were my Daddy’s (some of which I’ve posted about here).
But I sort of want to leave them retired.
And get me my own to train with, drag around, etc.

If I’m looking for something to carry...
And to supplement my SIGs...
My natural entry point, I’ve decided, is the j-frame.
(...in particular, in the .32 H&R Magnum caliber, which is a whole ‘nother story [and thread] )

Here is my QUESTION:

What are the pros and cons, the ins and outs of the Chief’s Special “style” vs. the Centennial “style.”

Here’s the areas it breaks down into for ME:

1- Aesthetics
They certainly look "different” but beyond that, it’s simply not worth talking about.
To each his own. De gustibus non est disputandum.

2- Use
a) the Chief’s can be fired DA or SA, whereas the shrouded Centennial is DAO
b) the Chief’s hammer could conceivably snag on the draw, whereas the Centennial has no hammer to snag.

Do you wise old heads go with Chief’s or Centennial because you like one “trigger” over the other?
Do you avoid the Chief for carry because of the hammer?
Or is your manual-of-arms just to put your thumb on the hammer on the draw, and... carry on?

3- Maintenance
My SIGs I can field strip in 15 seconds and get to everything I need to to clean and/or oil.
I have NO IDEA about the care and feeding of the j-frame revolver.
But I’m thinking...cylinder face, chambers, barrel the same on both the Chief’s and the Centennial.
But what about the Centennial hammer and other sundry parts UNDER THAT SHROUD?
Does daily shooting and proper cleaning need make the Centennial style more of an “issue” than the Chief’s style, with its direct access to the hammer, etc.
Or is everything copacetic to be just left alone under that shroud?
Or you need to be taking the side plate off regularly to clean under there?

4- Any other issues/differences I’ve overlooked between the Chief’s and the Centennial?

All comments, information and opinions much appreciated by this enthusiastic student !

James

 

[SweetKnuckles]

I had a chief's special, but since my J is always going to be pocket carried, I spun myself in circles about a possible (although admittedly remote) drawstroke hammer snag.

I considered bobbing my hammer, but found it easier to sell out of the hammered and go to Centennial.

I don't disparage those with hammers, but after really thinking about and carrying a hammered model, for me, I could never see myself needing to cock back a hammer and take a 'precision' shot. Hell, it's a snubby for cryin' out loud, and although I will NEVER be in a gunfight in my life...it's reeeeel difficult for me to imagine explaining to a jury how I was in imminent fear of death, but had the extra time and presence of mind to cock back my hammer for a 'William Tell' instead of beating feet out of the situation. (JMO of course)

The Bodyguard model 638 (shrouded hammer, humpback style) is something you might consider if you just HAVE to have that ability to go SA.

Cleaning and maintenance should be the same, although there is a school of thought that claims a Centennial will capture less pocket lint and debris in the mechanism due to being a more 'sealed' system. A rancher buddy of mine says all the hay he gets in his pockets really made a Centennial his best option.

There are many many owners of Smith revos who have never removed the sideplate, and truth be told, more damage has occurred to revos by removing a sideplate improperly or carelessly than has been prevented by it. Point being, you don't NEED to remove the side plate ever, but I can't help myself, and always do upon initial cleaning and then every few years.

Be advised, slideplate removal is not too difficult and shouldn't intimidate you, but you need to be really careful when removing it to prevent any screwdriver slips or chipping of the finish around the side plate seams. MPO is that the matte black ala 442 is a more durable finish than the matte silver which seems to wear quickly, especially on the backstrap and looks ratty in short order. (My experience with a recent production 642)

One thing I do like to do is remove the cylinder and crane from the frame, (which can be done w/o complete removal of the side plate...just the foremost screw) and flush that cylinder axis with BrakeCleen, let dry and then work in 2 drops of good lubricant like Weaponshield on those axis parts. Cylinder spins for days.

Hope that helps...good luck with your search.

 

[JamesD]

Thanks, Knucks

Knuckles,

Thanks for your post. I hope I get a lot more!
You said JMO and MPO and such all through your post, and that is, of course, what I'm looking for.
Then it's my job to sort through all the various ideas, comments, opinions and information, and figure out what makes the best sense for me.

Best regards,

James

P.S. I too use Weapon Shield. Just think it's the cat's pajamas.

 

[DC7]

James: Regarding the issues you mentioned above:

1) Aesthetics: I actually love the look of both styles. The Chief's Special is practically "THE" classic snub design, while the Centennial is streamlined, sleek, and beautiful. With that said...

2) Use: ...I only carry the Centennial. In a personal defense situation, there is no reason why I'd ever cock the hammer on a snub revolver. Police departments all over the country have mandated some variation of double-action-only (including semiauto actions like Sig's DAK and HK's LEM) for safety reasons, and I agree with their thinking. Also, the Centennial has nothing pointed or sharp that might tear clothing or catch during a draw, and it can be fired from a pocket without worrying that a hammer (or hammer-mounted firing pin) might catch on something and fail to fire.

3) Maintenance: With reasonable care, you could carry and shoot either model for a lifetime without ever having to remove the sideplate. A Model 640 Centennial that I bought 20 years ago this coming spring has never had the sideplate off since it left the factory, yet the action is still crisp, smooth, light, and perfectly reliable. Unless you drop the gun in sand, mud, or some other contaminant, it should be fine with just basic cleaning--no disassembly necessary. I use BreakFree CLP on my revolvers, and it keeps everything (barrel, cylinder, exterior, etc.) nicely clean and lubricated.

I did have a couple J-frames that came from the factory feeling like the actions were full of grit, so I took off the sideplates, brushed out and flushed out the actions with BreakFree, then closed them up again. If done correctly (removing the sideplate without prying or bending--I'm sure instructions can be found here on the forum), using the correct gunsmithing screwdrivers, it's a simple and harmless procedure.

4) The only other difference I can think of is something I read here on the forum--that the geometry of the hammer is different on the Centennial, which can make it feel smoother than exposed or shrouded hammer revolvers like the Chiefs or Bodyguard. I'm not a gunsmith so I can't confirm that, but I have definitely noticed a difference. Most of my revolvers are Centennials, and almost without exception I've found them to be smooth and easy to shoot right out of the box. Part of the reason might be that they're almost all from the early 1990's, when S&W was still hand-fitting forged parts, but even compared to Chiefs and Bodyguards from the same era, for me the Centennials have had an edge in overall smoothness and shootability.

What works for one person doesn't necessarily work for another, of course, so I'd suggest trying out both styles if possible, and choosing whichever you shoot best.

 

[Vulcan Bob]

Boy, hard to add to whats already been posted! I would lean towards the centennial for it's snag free profile and ability to fire out of a pocket without hang ups. However just to be a bit difficult may I add the Bodyguard to the mix? It's a little of both with it's shrouded hammer.

 

[jcelect]

Maintenance?

Another view of the maintenance of a revlover is, NONE! I have a rifle case full of revolvers that me and my wife shoot all summer long in bowling pin shoots and practice. This year was a little slow but other years the round count would be at least 5000+! Maybe once a week I run a brush thru the bore and cylinders other wise these guns get "cleaned" once, in the winter months. DO NOT soak the internals with oil! When dust and dirt collect in the oil it becomes lapping compound which produces wear on the internal parts! Again, once a year wash the internals with brake cleaner and one drop of oil on the pivot points and rebound slide!
jcelect

 

[TACC1]

JamesD;
SweetKnuckles is right, IMO, as to use of the gun. When I decided
to get a "snubbie", I got a 642, even though I considered it to be
ugly as sin. It grows on you. Had the same thoughts as to a Chief's,
but, since I've gotten one of each, I find that I only fire DA now,
unless I'm shooting a .22 for plinking. Accuracy with the DA trigger
will come in due course. I, too, have noticed that the DA pull on the
642 is at least as good, if not better than, the DA pull on my M36.
The only suitable gun I had for CCW course was the 642, so I
got pretty good/passable in a hurry.
Of course, a spare snub-nose lying around is not a bad thing.
JMHO, TACC1.

 

[29aholic]

I can only add that I have carried both as well as a Bodyguard (which I got rid of cuz I thought was butt ugly), and I have settled on the Centennial. At CQB distances I can shoot the gun very well. I would never go into an armed encounter with my revolver cocked (or my Sig for that matter) as it may not come to shooting and would not want to accidentally trip the trigger and open myself up to liability.

 

[srgvaz]

I had a chief's special, but since my J is always going to be pocket carried, I spun myself in circles about a possible (although admittedly remote) drawstroke hammer snag.

I considered bobbing my hammer, but found it easier to sell out of the hammered and go to Centennial.

I don't disparage those with hammers, but after really thinking about and carrying a hammered model, for me, I could never see myself needing to cock back a hammer and take a 'precision' shot. Hell, it's a snubby for cryin' out loud, and although I will NEVER be in a gunfight in my life...it's reeeeel difficult for me to imagine explaining to a jury how I was in imminent fear of death, but had the extra time and presence of mind to cock back my hammer for a 'William Tell' instead of beating feet out of the situation. (JMO of course)

The Bodyguard model 638 (shrouded hammer, humpback style) is something you might consider if you just HAVE to have that ability to go SA.

Cleaning and maintenance should be the same, although there is a school of thought that claims a Centennial will capture less pocket lint and debris in the mechanism due to being a more 'sealed' system. A rancher buddy of mine says all the hay he gets in his pockets really made a Centennial his best option.

There are many many owners of Smith revos who have never removed the sideplate, and truth be told, more damage has occurred to revos by removing a sideplate improperly or carelessly than has been prevented by it. Point being, you don't NEED to remove the side plate ever, but I can't help myself, and always do upon initial cleaning and then every few years.

Be advised, slideplate removal is not too difficult and shouldn't intimidate you, but you need to be really careful when removing it to prevent any screwdriver slips or chipping of the finish around the side plate seams. MPO is that the matte black ala 442 is a more durable finish than the matte silver which seems to wear quickly, especially on the backstrap and looks ratty in short order. (My experience with a recent production 642)

One thing I do like to do is remove the cylinder and crane from the frame, (which can be done w/o complete removal of the side plate...just the foremost screw) and flush that cylinder axis with BrakeCleen, let dry and then work in 2 drops of good lubricant like Weaponshield on those axis parts. Cylinder spins for days.

Hope that helps...good luck with your search.

I'm sure the BrakeCleen doesn't help your finish any.

 

[NE450No2]

Since I carry the 5 shot S&W in my front pocket, been doing so for 35+ years, why not split the difference and tet the "Bodyguard".

With its hammer shroud it is "slick" out of the pocket, and you can still thumb cock if necessary.

If my choice was the Chief or the Centennial I would pick the Centennial.

My wife carries the Centennial.

Also, you can always "bob" the hammer of a Chief.

 

[Brian41]

Buy them both and you'll have a choice. I have an early Bodyguard in excellent shape which I got guilty over and stopped carrying much as I didn't want to muck it up.
I do carry regular a model 36 with bobbed hammer and a model 37 DAO from factory. I carry all three in an Uncle Mikes pocket holster BTW and recommend them highly.
I like to keep it simple and always the same with my basicly DA J frames.

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

SweetKnuckles said it pretty well. I have a few things to add, but, in the end, I strongly favor the Centennial, although I really don't have a problem with a bobbed 36 or 37.

The Centennial is less likely to crud up in the first place. Although I am likely to have the sideplate off the first week I have the gun, it may not be off again for another ten years.

I still feel more comfortable having a gun capable of accurate aimed fire. However, for me, that does not eliminate the Centennial. At my present level, I can shoot DAO just as accurately as SA, although perhaps slightly slower (and more safely).

Since I would carry a J frame only bobbed, SA isn't an advantage I would count even if it really were an advantage.

It is much easier to holster a 36 or 37 safely than a 640 or even a 40 - just keep your thumb on the bobbed hammer, pushing it into the frame. With a Centennial, you have to be almost as careful as with a Glock, maybe even more so. When inserting a Centennial into a Renegade ankle holster, you should put your finger into the trigger guard BEHIND the trigger while forcing the gun most of the way into the holster. Remove your finger only when you have to. With a 37, all you have to do is keep your thumb firmly on the hammer, ready to slack off if something starts pushing against your thumb.

One LEO on this board recommended checking for free cylinder spin (hindered by high primers) after closing the cylinder. I agree with him, and do this with revolvers that have hammer spurs. Without a spur, and certainly without a visible hammer, this is something that you should not do except on the range, or out your back door in the country when you know where your wife and kids and neighbors are.

Despite the slight drawbacks, particularly the last, I still prefer a Centennial, especially a 40 or 42 with a grip safety. But a bobbed 37 is OK, too.

 

[NE450No2]

You can also check for high primers by placing you ammo on a flat surface or running the base of the cartridge over a ruler...

But I still always spin the cylinder...

If you are in the city you can use 8 to 10 inches of phone book at the muzzle while you do the spin test.

No defensive handgun round I know of will penetrate 10 inches of phone book.

 

[OLDFED]

I have them all, including some adj. sighted models. For defensive, everyday go-to-market carry, both my lady and I carry the centenniels. Maybe I got lucky, but both actions have what I call a two-stage trigger...move the cyl and lock up, then release. It's just like having a single action. My hammer wheel guns only go with me when I hit the "wilds" of the Pacific Northwest. However...whenever I'm headed to the Big Chitty, I've got a 1911 somewhere on my carcass, either with a Grip-clip or in a shoulder rig. You have to do what you have to do. Some folks like blondes, some redheads and me...I have a gorgeous brunette who looks simply wonderful with her cross-draw .38! Good luck and stay safe!

 

[oneminute]

I have carried centennials and chief specials. My current BUG is a 37-2 with the factory bobbed hammer. I shoot it better than the centennials.
My suggestion is try them both and get whichever one suits you best.

 

[J. Galt]

I've carried both and can't really see any major functional difference between them. I "retired" my Bodyguard when I got a 642 only because the 642 is +P rated. I think this is one case which can be decided by looks alone, and you will be well served by either choice.

 

[sipowicz]

I prefer the Centennial..yeah you can bob the hammer on a 60...but it still don't make it 100 percent reliable for firing in a coat pocket...and in the winter, I like to put it there with my hand on it for those late night walks to the car...

 

[Centenniel]

I have both the Chief's Special and the Centennial. I much prefer the Centennial.

 

[sipowicz]

I have both the Chief's Special and the Centennial. I much prefer the Centennial.

I would have thought you'd prefer the Centenniel...

 

[Robert B]

I prefer the Chief's Special

I pocket carry my M&P360 daily. I read an article in a gun magazine by Massaad Ayoob where he emphasized the importance of a cylinder check. That is pulling the hammer back slightly with muzzle pointed in a safe direction so that one can rotate the cylinder to verify no high primers etc. This article is why I chose the exposed hammer design. I'm difinitely in the minority, but I really am glad I chose this design. Drawing from my pocket is 100% snag free with my thumb over the hammer. It's second nature for me to draw this way. Go with the Chief's Special.