Cleaning a revolver

[BlueLineNYPD]

Please forgive me if this is a stupid question, but can you clean the inside of the barrel and cylinders with a bore brush or will the brush damage the gun?

 

[shamuscull]

Yes you can. No it won't.

 

[hyena]

I've been doing it for 45 years. So far, so good.

 

[robertrwalsh]

However, do NOT use a stainless steel brush on a carbon steel bore. That can scratch up the bore. Use bronze, or even nylon, on carbon (blue) steel.

 

[BlueLineNYPD]

Thank you everyone, I appreciate it.

 

[BlueLineNYPD]

However, do NOT use a stainless steel brush on a carbon steel bore. That can scratch up the bore. Use bronze, or even nylon, on carbon (blue) steel.

Thank you Robert, I've been using the brush that comes with the cleaning kit.

 

[ContinentalOp]

I'll add a tip. Use a slightly larger brush to clean the chambers in the cylinder. For example, if you have a .38, use a .38-caliber brush for the bore and a .40/.41-caliber brush for the chambers. They also make brushes specifically for chambers that are slightly larger than bore brushes.

 

[gwpercle]

Please forgive me if this is a stupid question, but can you clean the inside of the barrel and cylinders with a bore brush or will the brush damage the gun?

ATTABOY for asking !
Not dumb question... if you don't know...asking is smart !
Brass bore brushes are made to clean inside barrel and cylinder , just add a little solvent , CLP , WD40 or oil depending on how dirty / fouled the barrel is . Cleaner and lubricants make the cleaning job easier .
Don't use stainless steel brushes , if they still make them ... I think the harder SS brush might do damage so I never tried them ... brass brushes are fine .
Gary

 

[BlueLineNYPD]

Thanks Gary!

 

[mikerjf]

Just cause no one else has said, if we're talking an aluminum cylinder you want to stick to nylon brushes.

S&W's like the 317 Airlite 22 have aluminum cylinders.

 

[BlueLineNYPD]

Just cause no one else has said, if we're talking an aluminum cylinder you want to stick to nylon brushes.

S&W's like the 317 Airlite 22 have aluminum cylinders.

Thanks. I have a 640 centennial and a 642 airweight.

 

[mikerjf]

Both steel cylinders, so you're good to go.

 

[Benchrest1]

Not a problem, but I would never use a stainless steel brush.

 

[dmy]

In addition to lots of good info in this and other forums, you can learn a lot by watching YouTube vidros. You should view several as many techniques and opinions vary.

 

[Racer X]

I'll add a tip. Use a slightly larger brush to clean the chambers in the cylinder. For example, if you have a .38, use a .38-caliber brush for the bore and a .40/.41-caliber brush for the chambers. They also make brushes specifically for chambers that are slightly larger than bore brushes.

Absolutely. A .243 rifle brush is perfect for a .22LR chamber.

 

[lihpster]

Not a stupid question at all. We all start someplace. You were smart enough to ask the question now. We love to answer those. We hate answering the same question after someone has done something that has damaged their handgun or, God forbid, rendered it unsafe. Welcome to the wonderful world of revolver shooting!

 

[AzShooter]

Mine get pretty dirty depending on what ammo I've loaded up for that day.

I get home and take out my MPro-7 and spray the gun down. I wipe it dry with a clean rag and then use a nylon brush to scrub the barrel and cylinders.

I do not go further than this until after about 2500 round, then I take the side plate off, clean out everywhere under the plate and reassemble the weapon.

 

[CCantu357]

You cannot go wrong with a bronze bore brush. I prefer Brownells brand; they seem to be made the best. Nylon brushes are softer if you want a softer touch. I have only used stainless steel brushes on stainless steel revolvers, and then only when heavy duty cleaning is required.

Some time ago, I saw a tool that was made for cleaning revolver cylinders. I think it was from Brownells, but I cannot remember at the moment. It was a device that looked like a speedloader, but had six bore brushes on it. Seems like a speedier way to clean the cylinder.

 

[chief38]

Bronze Bore Brushes will never harm the inside of your barrel. NEVER use a "cyclone type"or bristle type Steel Brush - they will!

HINT: I use Brownell's standard bronze bore Rifle brush line for Pistol barrels and Revolver Cylinders where the brush is able to be completely pushed all the way through. I buy Rifle sized brushes in all the appropriate calibers. The rifle brushes are longer and give double the cleaning effect with each push through. They shouldn't be used on Revolver barrels simply because they will not go all the way through and you will have to reverse directions while the brush is still in the barrel. This in turn breaks and tears out the bristles of the brush. For revolver cylinders and pistol barrels they work terrific and clean better than Pistol sized brushes for a few cents per brush more.

 

[kbm6893]

My guns get thoroughly cleaned after every range session, regardless of amount of rounds fired. 6 rounds or 600, makes no difference to me.

I only take the side plate off new used revolvers I buy. I've seen some nasty stuff in there. hrfunk on YouTube has a great video of a seemingly barely used Model 66 that was so gunned up in there he could barely pull the trigger or operate the gun in any way.

I use an oversized bore brush on my chambers, chucked into a drill on low speed. Gets them spotless every time.

My guns look new. I enjoy keeping them looking that way.

 

[D Brown]

ATTABOY for asking !
Not dumb question... if you don't know...asking is smart !
Brass bore brushes are made to clean inside barrel and cylinder , just add a little solvent , CLP , WD40 or oil depending on how dirty / fouled the barrel is . Cleaner and lubricants make the cleaning job easier .
Don't use stainless steel brushes , if they still make them ... I think the harder SS brush might do damage so I never tried them ... brass brushes are fine .
Gary

I think bronze bore brushes are a much better approach to gun cleaning. A brass brush would leave tracks all over the blue finish.

 

[Telecaster]

I had to learn to be patient, and let the cleaning fluid soak for 5-10 minutes before proceeding. Less brushing, that way.

 

[Rolex28]

I clean after each firing... I do not use a bore brush. I just run 3-4 cleaning cloths with cleaning fluid, ONEWAY through the bore. Then 2-3 runs of clean cloths... all one way. I don't like the idea of running a dirty bore brush back and forth through each cleaning or the next cleaning..

 

[glenwolde]

I'll add a tip. Use a slightly larger brush to clean the chambers in the cylinder. For example, if you have a .38, use a .38-caliber brush for the bore and a .40/.41-caliber brush for the chambers. They also make brushes specifically for chambers that are slightly larger than bore brushes.

On .38/.357 cylinders I use a .375 rifle brush. It's just about a perfect fit and they are like 3x longer than a pistol brush so you gets lots o' scrubbing in a single pass.

 

[chief38]

For stubborn Lead but not quite bad enough for the Lewis Lead Remover I use Bronze Chamber Brushes in the appropriate caliber. They are a few thousandths oversized and a little more aggressive - but still safe.

 

[ContinentalOp]

Some time ago, I saw a tool that was made for cleaning revolver cylinders. I think it was from Brownells, but I cannot remember at the moment. It was a device that looked like a speedloader, but had six bore brushes on it. Seems like a speedier way to clean the cylinder.

I've used that. I think I still have it. I think I had two, one for 5-shot cylinders and one for 6-shot cylinders. IIRC, they had nylon bristles and I found it a bit awkward to use so I went back to cleaning each chamber individually. I may have to see if I can dig it out and try it again.

 

[kbm6893]

I clean after each firing... I do not use a bore brush. I just run 3-4 cleaning cloths with cleaning fluid, ONEWAY through the bore. Then 2-3 runs of clean cloths... all one way. I don't like the idea of running a dirty bore brush back and forth through each cleaning or the next cleaning..

I soak the chambers and hire with a solvent soaked patch, let sit while I do the rest of the gun, the. Scrub with a bronze brush in bore 10-15 swipes. Use a brass brush on a cleaning rod in a drill for chambers. Then follow up with another solvent soaked patch which gets out any residue from the brushes. When it comes out clean I follow with one more clean patch to cover all the chambers and bore. It comes out completely free of black. Then follow with a dry shotgun patch through all the chambers and hole to make sure it's completely dry and clean. Takes me maybe 20 minutes to clean the revolver.

 

[ContinentalOp]

I soak the chambers and hire with a solvent soaked patch, let sit while I do the rest of the gun, the. Scrub with a bronze brush in bore 10-15 swipes. Use a brass brush on a cleaning rod in a drill for chambers. Then follow up with another solvent soaked patch which gets out any residue from the brushes. When it comes out clean I follow with one more clean patch to cover all the chambers and bore. It comes out completely free of black. Then follow with a dry shotgun patch through all the chambers and hole to make sure it's completely dry and clean. Takes me maybe 20 minutes to clean the revolver.

Except for the drill and the shotgun patch (I just use a regular patch) I use pretty much the same method. Works well for me.

 

[kbm6893]

Except for the drill and the shotgun patch (I just use a regular patch) I use pretty much the same method. Works well for me.

Shotgun patch is just a tighter fit so more thoroughly dried.

 

[pasound]

Many years and many guns ago, I jumped on the "new" stainless brushes. Scarred the bore on my stainless 6" Ruger Redhawk after a session of cleaning out too-soft 240gr lead SWC handloads. Tossed them, and told all my friends to do the same.