I am going out today to shoot my, new to me, Model 29. I have no experience cleaning blued firearms. All my pistols and revolvers are either stainless or Polimer. The 29 is perfect in every way so I am a more than a bit worried about removing the blueing. On stainless revolvers I used a solvents and brushes on the cylinder face and lead off to finish off the cylinder line etc. I plan on just using CLP on the Model 29 until I can find good instructions on cleaning the finish. Could anyone help me out. Thanks, Michael
Cleaning Blued Firearms
- Thread starter B/STOCK
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Use a good cleaning solvent like Hoppes and then after running a bore brush or bore snake down the barrel and cylinders and drying them off with patches put a light coat of gun oil like Remington gun oil and you will be good to go.
had3nuf
Member
I agree with fyimo says about Hoppes, I started using a product on my guns about a year ago its called never dull you can get it at any auto parts store, even Walmart carries it, it cleans the hard to get material of your cylinder and won't hurt the finish on your gun.
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Waywatcher
Member
Here's what I use on my blued guns, after doing a lot of research.
I use:
Breakfree CLP (it's an inexpensive, effective cleaner/lubricant/protectant*)
Flannel patches cut to size (bought in yards at a fabric store.)
An old toothbrush (for places like the ratchet, top strap, etc.)
Q-tips (for places like cylinder notches, barrel extension, etc.)
Toothpicks (for places like cylinder notches, recessed cylinders, etc.)
0000 steel wool heavily laden with CLP and rubbed gently (only ever used for rust-which means only new-to-me guns
)
A bronze bristled toothbrush (for lead buildup on cylinder and barrel extension and used very sparingly.)
Brass cleaning rod.
Nylon "multi-cal" bore brush (Christmas tree shape) for bore and chambers.
Never needed anything more aggressive than CLP with these methods.
*Breakfree CLP because it meets a standard for gun oil. Most gun oils are whatever the manufacturer decides; there are no industry standards or laws regulating the use of the term "gun oil." A firm could literally market repackaged olive oil as gun oil if they wanted to. Breakfree CLP at least meets a military standard of what a gun oil should be. It also does very well in corrosion torture tests, and lubricates grueling environments like an AR15 very well. Just remember in the back of your mind that more guns are ruined by improper cleaning than are worn out from shooting.
I use:
Breakfree CLP (it's an inexpensive, effective cleaner/lubricant/protectant*)
Flannel patches cut to size (bought in yards at a fabric store.)
An old toothbrush (for places like the ratchet, top strap, etc.)
Q-tips (for places like cylinder notches, barrel extension, etc.)
Toothpicks (for places like cylinder notches, recessed cylinders, etc.)
0000 steel wool heavily laden with CLP and rubbed gently (only ever used for rust-which means only new-to-me guns
)A bronze bristled toothbrush (for lead buildup on cylinder and barrel extension and used very sparingly.)
Brass cleaning rod.
Nylon "multi-cal" bore brush (Christmas tree shape) for bore and chambers.
Never needed anything more aggressive than CLP with these methods.
*Breakfree CLP because it meets a standard for gun oil. Most gun oils are whatever the manufacturer decides; there are no industry standards or laws regulating the use of the term "gun oil." A firm could literally market repackaged olive oil as gun oil if they wanted to. Breakfree CLP at least meets a military standard of what a gun oil should be. It also does very well in corrosion torture tests, and lubricates grueling environments like an AR15 very well. Just remember in the back of your mind that more guns are ruined by improper cleaning than are worn out from shooting.
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LedFowl
Member
What about a brass brush on the cylinder face of a blued revolver? I've wondered if this was a good idea, myself.
jsfricks
Member
0000 steel wool heavily laden with CLP and rubbed gently (only ever used for rust-which means only new-to-me guns
I would use mild Bronze wool with oil before I would use steel wool. The bronze wool is softer than the metal and bluing so it won't harm the bluing. Steel wool can leave scratches. It does wonders for rust spots.
05CarbonDRZ
Member
Can someone elaborate on Never Dull? I looked online and seen a couple of different brands sell it(eagle one,Basch) witch one do you use and it does not remove blueing? Any metal polish I use takes the blue right off the cylinder face.
Everybody feels differently, but I just clean the cylinder face with a soft toothbrush and Hoppes. It doesn't get all the discoloration off, but I don't care. Some people feel otherwise, and that's okay by me.
A cylinder line is just proof that you like shooting more than looking
After everything's clean, a shot of RemOil here and there, and my guns are ready for the next time.
A cylinder line is just proof that you like shooting more than looking
After everything's clean, a shot of RemOil here and there, and my guns are ready for the next time.
had3nuf
Member
The eagle one product is the one that I use, like I said when I shoot my guns sometimes I will have what appears to be a hot mark on the outside of the cylinder that doesn't always come of very easy with Hoppes, nevr dull will take them right off.
BJoe
Member
Everybody feels differently, but I just clean the cylinder face with a soft toothbrush and Hoppes. It doesn't get all the discoloration off, but I don't care. Some people feel otherwise, and that's okay by me.
A cylinder line is just proof that you like shooting more than looking
After everything's clean, a shot of RemOil here and there, and my guns are ready for the next time.
+1. EVERYTHING that removes carbon also removes a little blue. Don't worry about getting it 'picture clean' till/if you sell it.
66Park
Member
And you have no problems at all using this on a blued gun? I would really love to find something that makes removing the fouling off the cylinder on a high polish blue gun easier. It always freaks me out using a bronze toothbrush, and I can't always get it all off with a nylon toothbrush, even after soaking overnight in Kroil and Hoppe's #9. I'm less worried about scratching the front than the sides of the cylinder.
had3nuf
Member
66park I wouldn't recomend something that I didn't feel was a good working product here are some pics of guns that have all been cleaned with nevrdull. Also as fyimo stated it is a good idea to use ren wax after cleaning, it also helps with finger prints. every one of these guns are shooters, they all get shot at least once a month.
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66Park
Member
Great! Thanks. I'm a big fan of Renaissance Wax as well. Maybe some Nevrdull will make me a little more comfortable shooting my collector grade guns.
had3nuf
Member
Peter it's only about $6 dollars a can I don't think you will be disappointed.
jsfricks
Member
I have a can of Never Dull but haven't used it on a pistol. Will it cause a matte blue finish to be shinier?
had3nuf
Member
I dont believe it will make it shinier, it's not as aggressive as mothers polish, it just works very well on the build up you get from shooting.
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