cleaning excess lead from reloads

pssman308

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What do you guys use to clean excess lead from reloaded prior to shooting?
 
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Lewis lead remover. Copper wool strands wrapped around bronze brush. Lead specific bore scrubbing solvents (be sure to follow the directions to a T). Swab with Kroil or other quality penetrating oil, allow to soak, then bronze brush. There are several more ways if none of those appeal to you.

I would spend more effort on figuring why you are getting such bad leading. Not enough or too soft lube? Under sized bullets? Cylinder swagging down bullets before they enter forcing cone? Improper forcing cone diameter? Lee Carbide Pistol FCD swagging down bullet? Not sizing bullets to .001" or .002" over standard bore diameter? Pushing too soft an alloy under too much pressure? There are many more issues to read up on to prevent this.
 
I've not shot any of my reloads. I'm talking about the little slivers of lead remaining after you press the bullet in the case.
 
Little slivers of lead? Excess lube often gets on the case, which isn't an issue, but shaving lead off the bullet might indicate improper case expansion. What are you loading, how much are you expanding, and what bullets are you using?
 
As Dragon88 already stated, you shouldn't be getting little lead slivers if you're expanding the case mouth enough. Another possibility is that your seating punch nose may not be a very good match to the shape of your bullet noses.

Either way, you should work on getting rid of the slivers while loading, not after the bullets are already seated.
 
I think it's just lube. I'm loading 158 grain semi wadcutter.
 
Bell a case mouth, close your eyes and slide your thumb and forefinger down the case and across the case mouth. Belled properly you should just barely feel the expansion. Now take a bullet and set it on top of the case, it should set there without falling off.

Side note, bell just enough to seat the bullet but not too much, too much work hardens the brass.

Des
 
If all else fails, a Lyman M-Expander die should help. Instead of just belling the first 1/16" of the case mouth, there's a stem that goes a little way into the case and then has a step to flare the case mouth opening.
 
Depending on how much crimp you are using you may want to start seating and crimping in separate steps. I have some bullets that shave a little if I do both as a single step.

Chubbs
 
Even with proper [minimual] case belling you'll get an occasional cartridge [1-2/100] with a lead burr. I use a Lee FCD to catch them.
 
If my cases are of the same length so that they are expanded the same amount, I NEVER get leading.
 
I started using a Lee universal case expander. But the Powderfunnel.com universal PTX works even better used in the Hornady LNL AP. I'm curious if it also works in any other case activated powder measures. I set either one to expand just enough to not shave lead.
 
Pssman308: try belling a bit more your cases. I had a similar problem last year and "Harrison" and "shovel wrench" put me on the right track. It is true that reloading books always insist on not expanding/belling too much to preserve case life...but By Jove, a certain amount is needed! Try this, I'm sure it will help.
Regards,
Guy-
 
pssman Her is tricks to eliminate slivers.

Bell the case mouth enough to start the base of lead bullet into case about 1/16 th inch. Back the seating/crimping die out so no crimp is applied when seating bullet. I use a thick washer as a spacer between press body and lock ring of die so after seating all the bullets I remove spacer and screw die down to crimp the bullets in place. Don't forget to back out ( or remove ) the seating stem.

Important- when you insert the lead bullet into the belled case mouth make sure it is straight. If the bullet is tilted to one side it's going to shave lead from that side. If the bullet is straight no lead shaved.

Important #2 - After seating all bullets , before crimping, inspect each and wipe away any lube/slivers from around the bullet crimp groove. It's easy to remove before crimping.

Now crimp all the bullets as the final step. If your bullets were not seated quite deep enough during the seating step its ok to seat them a little deeper now, no lead will be shaved. Getting the seating depth just right on a belled case is hard so get close and save the final depth adjustment for the crimping stage

I know this adds another step to the process but its worth it.

Good luck Gary
 
Depending on how much crimp you are using you may want to start seating and crimping in separate steps. I have some bullets that shave a little if I do both as a single step.

Chubbs

+1. Definitely seat and crimp in separate operations. It does require an extra step, also means that you're changing die adjustments, but it's far better than seating and crimping at the same time.

Agree completely w/ comments about expanding the mouth of the case. No lead should be shaved. Don't sweat a little lube, if that's the case.
 
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