Cleaning M and P

Jdubchoi

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New to firearms. How far down do I have to take apart this weapon to properly clean it. Past field stripping?
 
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Field stripping is fine to clean it. If you didn't get a manual with it, you can view it here. See the "field stripping disassembly" section. It's followed by a lubrication section, then assembly.
 
Field stripping is all that is required for normal cleaning. If you happen to submerge the gun in liquid mud or something, aerosol products like GunBlaster do a good job of getting in to the nooks and crannies that may need cleaning out. Some folks use various products like brake cleaner or carb cleaner for this, but beware -- some of them eat plastic. Gun-specific products will not harm gun plastics.
 
I've been following the instructions in the S&W manual, it's on their web site.

I just field strip down to the frame, slide, recoil spring and barrel.

I use Froglube CLP. Plus a 9mm bore snake, Allen Co. Patches, an Outers brass pistol rod, Dixie cup, old tooth brush and old wash cloths.
 
My brothers favorite words. "follow the manufactures instructions"

Ditto. Field stripping is as far as you have to go.

As far as cleaning it, I currently use Mpro7, an organic cleaner, and lube it with Slip 2000. I would avoid getting cleaning solvent or lube inside the firing pin channel of the slide as over time, it will provide a sticky place for carbon to build up where you can't easily get to it and turn into gunk, causing light strikes from the firing pin and failures to fire. I haven't looked at the manual for a while, but I like to put a drop of lube at the point where the trigger bar engages the sear(?) to aid in a soother trigger pull.

Hope you enjoy the M&P!
 
Solvents like Gun Scrubber do a great job but they also remove any protective oil film. When at home, I like to use compressed air to blow out residual Gun Scrubber and then spray with a light oil (like Rem Oil) and then blow out any excess oil. A THIN layer of oil helps prevent corrosion but excess oil in places that don't require lubrication only serves to collect dirt.
 
Field stripping is all that needs to be done 99% of the time. I do wipe down my striker about once every 2k rd.s
 
I've been following the instructions in the S&W manual, it's on their web site.

I just field strip down to the frame, slide, recoil spring and barrel.

I use Froglube CLP. Plus a 9mm bore snake, Allen Co. Patches, an Outers brass pistol rod, Dixie cup, old tooth brush and old wash cloths.

+1 on the Froglube CLP. Just started using it after EVERYONE in my tactical training class told me how much they love it. I switched from Mpro7 and have been very impressed so far.
 
... it is actually a bad idea for a person who has not been through the armorer's training, to attempt to disassemble any further than a basic field strip as shown in the manual.
While I agree that it would be unusual to have to do more than a field strip, I think saying it's a bad idea to do more without the armorers course is a little over the top.

The M&P is one of the easiest guns to work on I've ever seen. Anyone with some mechanical inclination can do it without too much trouble.
 
Seal 1 CLP

I was using Balistol to clean my Shield 9mm and Gen 4 Glock 19 9mm, but switched to Seal 1 CLP. Similar to Frog Lube. I agree with all above that field stripping is all that is required. When applying Seal 1 I use a heat gun rather than hair dryer to heat up the metal parts. If you are going to try Seal 1...or Frog Lube...make sure you thoroughly clean the weapon first and then thoroughly wipe it down with a clean cloth and rubbing alcohol to remove any excess oils and cleaners. And microfiber towels are fairly cheap at WalMart. And as a retired AF pilot, when it comes to doing something, RTFC...read the f#@%ing checklist...or user manual in this case
 
I use Powder Blaster on/in the barrel, and Break Free CLP on everything else (including the barrel after I use the Powder Blast). I also apply a light coating of Wilson Combat Grease onto the rails so when I rack the slide and shoot it, the slide moves VERY smoothly like it is on ball bearings.
 
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