Cleaning M&P semi autos

i clean mine before i shoot, after i shoot, and sometimes just for fun.
i like my guns just like my woman - clean and lubed.

as far as cleaners and lube goes. darn near anything will work.
 
I usually clean them everytime I shoot but occasionally every other time. Went to the range today because it's been to cold to go out back and shoot and cleaned all 4 pistols when I got home.

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the video you provided showed one method of removing slide without depressing sear lever....it shows locking back the slide, pull back on slide to release, turn down turndown lever, pull the trigger which allows slide to be removed forward. If this is correct, it would eliminate having to pull down the sear lever. Do any of you use this?
 
the video you provided showed one method of removing slide without depressing sear lever....it shows locking back the slide, pull back on slide to release, turn down turndown lever, pull the trigger which allows slide to be removed forward. If this is correct, it would eliminate having to pull down the sear lever. Do any of you use this?

I've done it both ways, they both work.
 
the video you provided showed one method of removing slide without depressing sear lever....it shows locking back the slide, pull back on slide to release, turn down turndown lever, pull the trigger which allows slide to be removed forward. If this is correct, it would eliminate having to pull down the sear lever. Do any of you use this?
Perhaps someone will come up with a technical reason for one method over the other. Until then, I don't think you can go wrong following the owners manual.

Shield_Lever.jpg
 
the video you provided showed one method of removing slide without depressing sear lever....it shows locking back the slide, pull back on slide to release, turn down turndown lever, pull the trigger which allows slide to be removed forward. If this is correct, it would eliminate having to pull down the sear lever. Do any of you use this?
That's how I do mine

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Whenever handling a gun, a negligent discharge (ND) is possible.

...it would eliminate having to pull down the sear lever. Do any of you use this?
In order to remove the slide, the sear must be moved out of the way. There are two ways to do that.

The first is to use the sear deactivation lever as suggested in the manual. By using this method it is impossible to have an ND while field stripping the gun.

The second method is to just press the trigger after turning the take down lever. This also moves the sear out of the way just as it would when firing the gun. If there is a round in the chamber, the gun will discharge. Proper due diligence makes an ND unlikely.

If you're doing the proper due diligence, there won't be any ammo nearby as the gun is field stripped. If that's true, either method will work.

So, which method do you want to use? The one where it's impossible to have a negligent discharge or the one that's unlikely to have a negligent discharge? I prefer making it impossible to have an ND so, I follow the book method.

Which will you use?
 
I clean mine every time I shoot it, too. Also, if I have not fired one of my guns for a while, (a few months), I get it out and inspect it and give it a wipe down.

I want my guns to work for me. I can't expect that, if I do not take care of them. :)

So happy to read that I am in a large majority here who do clean their guns after each use! Because I have been reading elsewhere on 'the net' guys who seem to be bragging about how infrequently they clean their guns. 1000s of rounds, for example.

Plus, I like my guns, so no problem taking care of them.
 
the video you provided showed one method of removing slide without depressing sear lever....it shows locking back the slide, pull back on slide to release, turn down turndown lever, pull the trigger which allows slide to be removed forward. If this is correct, it would eliminate having to pull down the sear lever. Do any of you use this?

If you are diligent about clearing the weapon and inspecting the chamber (visually and tacitly) to insure it is empty before pulling the trigger in order to remove the slide flipping the sear disconnect down seems akin to wearing a belt with suspenders. However, when we are discussing the possibility of launching a chunk of lead God knows where at 1200+ f/s a"belt & suspenders" approach doesn't seem like an unreasonable idea to me.
 
The whole idea of the sear lever was to remove "pulling the trigger" out of the field stripping procedure . The trigger pushes the sear down as well as the sear lever to enable the slide to go forward provided the take down lever is also in the down position . If you forget and leave a round in the chamber and pull the trigger it will go boom . Apparently this has happened before . Firearms like Glock you have no choice but to pull the trigger when field stripping if the gun has been re cocked ie slide re racked .
 
So, which method do you want to use? The one where it's impossible to have a negligent discharge or the one that's unlikely to have a negligent discharge?

That's fine as long as all of your pistols have a sear deactivation lever. For those that don't, you have to make sure there isn't a round in the chamber...of course, some pistols don't require you to pull the trigger...like a 1911, for example...whereas others (like a Glock) do require it, to field strip the pistol. So, I always, ALWAYS check any pistol I am handling three times before I do anything else to it. I remove the magazine, rack the slide (locking it back), and actually put my finger in the chamber to manually and visually verify that it's empty. Only then will I proceed.

Right after I got out of the Navy, and started buying handguns, I had an ND with a revolver I just KNEW was unloaded. It was especially stupid, because revolvers are extremely easy to check. I have never wanted to have another ND!
 
Just follow the manual. Had worked for me. Over lube is not good. More oil doesn't mean More function.
 
Well,I field stripped and cleaned my m&P shield 2.0 today...no problems except a little trouble getting spring back in correctly...Hurray! One thing occurred to me - I don't see anything about cleaning the bore in the manual?? I use Ballistol sprayed in bore..let it sit, then run bore snake through about 5 times everytime I shoot- as well as wiping gun down with Ballistol.
thanks to all of you who encouraged me to field strip...you were right.
Creekman
 
If you are diligent about clearing the weapon and inspecting the chamber...
This is the phrase that gets everyone sometimes. We all get complacent sometime. Anyone who says that's impossible for them is only fooling themselves.

There are many holes in places where they shouldn't be because someone thought they were too careful to have an ND happen to them.
 
Well,I field stripped and cleaned my m&P shield 2.0 today...no problems except a little trouble getting spring back in correctly...Hurray! One thing occurred to me - I don't see anything about cleaning the bore in the manual?? I use Ballistol sprayed in bore..let it sit, then run bore snake through about 5 times everytime I shoot- as well as wiping gun down with Ballistol.
thanks to all of you who encouraged me to field strip...you were right.
Creekman
Good for you [emoji106] well done

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I run patches thru the bore with a cleaning rod as well as a bore snake . Also use a gun grease for rails , parts of the barrel , parts of the slide . I use minimal amounts . Congrats on field stripping . You want to make sure on the slide the breech face and under the extractor get clean . Always clean with the firing pin pointing down / muzzle down so you do not get stuff down the firing pin hole . A clean cloth and polymer pic works good .
 
I believe every carry gun should always be cleaned after shooting, range session etc. It allows you to check for any damage, excessive wear, or brass shavings that may have been left behind. Once every two weeks I clear the mag and chamber and run a dry toothbrush through the magwell breechface, chamber etc. with the slide locked back.

M&P's, Glocks, etc. have a lot of clearance between the slide and frame, and at the rear of the slide for dirt, lint, and dust to fall into the inside of the trigger/sear and moving parts area. This is a another reason to use "minimal" lube. Grease and heavy oil will cause debris, fuzz from clothing, and dust to stick. I use a little more lube than what the manual recommends, and after 30 years of using all kinds of "wonder oils" I just use synthentic motor oil now, but use whatever you like as long as it's slippery and doesn't evaporate like w-d 40.

I use bore solvent in the bore, let it soak, brush, patch, then spray plain old cheap carb cleaner through it. Dry patch again, then light oil patch and wipe down with oil on a clean rag. If you can, have a little workbench with a bright light and always visually inspect the moving parts. You don't even have to know what you are looking at, but with common sense, you should be able to tell a peice of organic matter, lint, brass shavings or a part that does not look right. Look for hairline cracks and gouging on steel parts, pins not lined up, and polymer damage/wear.

Reassemble, then rack slide a few times and dry fire a dozen times or so, make sure everything FEELS right, and you will FEEL confident carrying a clean and visually inspected pistol that you checked yourself.
 
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