Cleaning Old Revolvers With Surface Rust and Light Pitting

[PMRet]

Most of my revolvers are stainless, except for a couple that are blued and in excellent condition. However, recently I have started to take an interest in older blued guns that have seen a lot of use and may have some surface rust and light pitting. After researching the Forum, this seems to sum up the process for dealing with these problems:

Use 0000 brass wool with Kroil or Break Free to remove the rust, then apply a coat of Renaissance wax.

Anybody got anything to add? I would appreciate any and all advice and/or information on this subject.

 

[gjamison]

sounds like you got it covered.

i use LSA oil 0000 steel wool and Renaissance wax
seems to work for me....

 

[4-Screw]

The steel wool does not scratch or remove any blue?

 

[Maximumbob54]

I found a badly pitted Marlin 336 that came with a very cheap price tag. I found some 000 steel wool and used some of Hoppes brand oil I have and gave it a good scrubbing. I expected the little remaining bluing to come right off and I was just going to give it a cold bluing to coat it again. None of the bluing came off from the steel wool that I could tell. I figured it would clean up to the bare steel. I didn’t really lay into it that hard but then again I don’t know the differences in bluing used or how it is applied. I have no doubt some if it came off but it was very minimal. So if you use some bronze or copper wool that is softer than steel and some good oil then you should be safe.

 

[Pisgah]

The steel wool does not scratch or remove any blue?

It will remove bluing, but it takes a lot of work! Go easy, and you will have no problem. If you encounter spots that are a bit too tough for the steel wool, put a drop of oil on it and use the edge of a copper penny to scrape the rust spot away.

 

[fyimo]

I suppose brass wool is better but I've used steel wool (0000) for years and have not seen any bad effects from it. I was told by a local gunsmith in the 80's to do this and it sure works for me. You don't have to rub all that hard and it pops the bluing back to life. If I had rust spots I would add gun oil to the steel wool and rub lightly.

 

[Vulcan Bob]

If you want an eye opener at times, take a strong white light and take a look at the blue of an otherwise good looking old revolver. Now and again you will see a brown tint, thats rust folks. Used in moderation the 0000 steel wool and oil works just fine.

 

[Cooter Brown]

For what it's worth, brass or bronze wool is definitely easier on the finish, and should last a long time. It also has the added advantage of not rusting. Any little pieces of steel wool that break and get in the action etc. of WILL rust.

Bronze/brass wool can be obtained from furniture and cabinet finishing supply store.

 

[4-Screw]

Anyone ever use Ballistol to coat/penetrate.lube/oil their guns to protect against rust?

I usually just store mine with a light coating of oil in the bore and chambers, and then I keep the outside of the gun clean and dry...wiped with a soft, clean, and dry towel.

I did notice on a blued gun the other day that there was a brown tint to the towel when I lightly used some Flitz on it. That worried me a bit.

 

[handejector]

Never use steel wool coarser than 4/0.
I have almost entirely abandoned the use of ANY steel wool.
It WILL scratch the pre-war carbona blue on highly polished guns. Look at one with a 5X magnifier BEFORE and after using 4/0 steel wool. You will see fine scratches from 4/0 steel wool.

I use only the fine bronze wool from Brownell's with any good oil. 'CorrosionX' seems to dissolve rust as well as or better than anything else. Time and a warm environment help.

I do not wax guns, but I seldom display either.
RIG is my favorite. A super thin coat applied with the sheepskin "RIG-Rag" is the least obnoxious coating there is EXCEPT for wax. The coating is so thin it does not make hands and objects the gun lays on oily.

Some of the 'brown tint' seen on a gun is rust, some is merely dried oil.

 

[H Richard]

When using a penny to scrape larger sections of rust, be sure it is a "copper" penny, I believe you have to get back to the 50's to get one that is all copper.

 

[Bill Bates]

Steel wool of 0000 will work. There is one minor issue and that is it can leave small particles embedded in the surface. They can rust and cause issues if you decide to refinish. Copper wool doesn't have the same issues.

Something else that works very well is some Kroil and a stick of white chalk to rub off the rust. That is what I use to remove rust from Damascus barrels with out damaging the original delicate pattern.

These barrels were completely covered in a layer of rust. This is how they look after the Kroil and chalk treatment.

 

[mikepriwer]

Bill

I think, but am not absolutely certain, that chalk is very much like
pumice, or even sandstone, that is used for highly polishing wood.
The chalk should be a very very fine abrasive, and you'd want to
use oil, as you did, of course. Its finer than 0000 steel wool, so
perhaps is even better.

As to another tip, for stuck screws, and even rust, Oil of Wintergreen
is suppossed to be the finest molecular structure oil in existence.
It has a unique scent to it ( to say the least ), but with a bit of
soaking time, it really gets into tight places.

Regards, Mike Priwer

 

[bmcgilvray]

"Look at one with a 5X magnifier BEFORE and after using 4/0 steel wool. You will see fine scratches from 4/0 steel wool."

Lee's right. One is fooling himself to think that 4/0 steel wool won't impair a surface finish.

I'm also another happy RIG fan for 30-something years. Never any rust. I also think that long term use of RIG improves the appearance of the patina of antique guns with less than perfect finishes.

 

[mikepriwer]

Bruce

I think exactly the same thing happens when using Rig Grease. After
the passes of some months, the blue seems to look better. Its
almost as through there is something in the grease that is reacting
with the blue.

Regards, Mike Priwer

 

[maxbnc]

I have found that the brass strip from a 5.56 stripper clip works well for the removal of rust also.

 

[sw282]

si--------

 

[chuck17]

Big 45 Frontier Metal cleaner

I read about this stuff on the 1911 Forum. I ordered it for $5 and it works very well compared to steel wool. It looks like the by-product of some kind of industrial process that someone discovered would be good for guns. I have used it on rust spots and also to delead barrels.

Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner

Has anyone else tried it?
-Chuck

 

[gaucho1]

I just ordered a pad. I recently acquired a rough 1917 with a bulged barrel that is in good functional condition and will try the rust removal feature.

I will post pics, before and after as well as side by side,rubbed
next to un-rubbed.

Seems like it would remove or scratch the blue at least to some degree.

I read about this stuff on the 1911 Forum. I ordered it for $5 and it works very well compared to steel wool. It looks like the by-product of some kind of industrial process that someone discovered would be good for guns. I have used it on rust spots and also to delead barrels.

Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner

Has anyone else tried it?
-Chuck

 

[kennyb]

Bruce

I think exactly the same thing happens when using Rig Grease. After
the passes of some months, the blue seems to look better. Its
almost as through there is something in the grease that is reacting
with the blue.

Regards, Mike Priwer

i am a newcomer to RIG....i have the lambskin applicator..so far i have been impressed