Cleaning Old Revolvers With Surface Rust and Light Pitting

[Worn_Holster]

I just ordered the Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner. For $5 including shipping, you can't go wrong. I was holding off ordering some brass wool from Brownells which would have cost close to $20 including shipping. The reviews sound like it is a good product and safe to use on an old valuable gun.

 

[Chase]

Metal wools work because their edges are sharp.

However, depending upon how much rust needs to be removed and how it's done, keep in mind that the bits of wool as well as the bits of rust that accumulate are abrasives themselves especially as they build up in any oil used.

If using oil to reduce the amount of abrasion/suspend the debris, frequent flushing and changes of the oil are needed in my experience.

For light rust haze, I have used metal wools and turpentine.

The chalk idea is new to me but should work well so I will try it.

I have not tried some of the chemical removers and would not on any rust-blued gun.

 

[tango-papa]

Chalk?

...Something else that works very well is some Kroil and a stick of white chalk to rub off the rust. That is what I use to remove rust from Damascus barrels with out damaging the original delicate pattern.

These barrels were completely covered in a layer of rust. This is how they look after the Kroil and chalk treatment.

Bill,

Please advise what type/brand of chalk you use.

Thank you,
tp

 

[PJGP]

I use 0000 steel wool and nitro-solvent. My understanding, which seems to born out in practice, is that the solvent neutralises the rust. Whatever you do, don't use rust killer/remover - it removes the bluing just like that!

Peter

 

[gripper]

I have had great luck with CorrosionX to get surface rust and pitting to a manageble level. CorrosionX responds to heat very well, actually speeds up the process. Here is what I do.

1. Take grips off and soak with CorrosionX
2. Soak inside of Ziploc bag and put gun inside
3. Place in a Borestore
4.On a hot day place in the back window of a car (Where applicable)

After about 4 or 5 hours (gun maybe too hot to handle with bare hands) I pull the gun out blast it off with more CorrosionX. After about the 4th time I will wipe it down with a microfiber rag. Once again this gets the rust to a manageble level. After that you can use some of the methods suggested above to fine tune things.

Chad Gripp

 

[John F.]

All-copper pennies...

"When using a penny to scrape larger sections of rust, be sure it is a "copper" penny, I believe you have to get back to the 50's to get one that is all copper."

The cut-off date for the 95% copper pennies is 1981 and before.

Hope this helps!

John

 

[Bill Bates]

Bill,

Please advise what type/brand of chalk you use.

Thank you,
tp

I use a plain old stick of white chalkboard type of chalk.

 

[DHENRY]

Soapstone works very well, like chalk.
+1 on CorrosionX.
Don

 

[tango-papa]

I use a plain old stick of white chalkboard type of chalk.

Thank you sir.

tp

 

[Frank46]

Believe me when someone mentions 4/0 steel wool and either kroil or break free to clean rust off a firearm I know exactly what he is talking about. Bought one of the police turn in rem 870 12 guage shotguns. This thing had rust every where. disassemblled the shotgun and went to work. In about an hours time you would not believe its the same shotgun. Rust was on the receiver, mag tube, mag tube extension and all over the bbl.Well I'm here to tell you it ain't there anymore. Its been wiped down with a fine cloth sprayed with some oil. I still get some rust color on the rag but gets less each time. I squirt the oil on and rub the steel wool in a circular motion. Could not believe how much rust was getting removed. There are a few pits but for $210 before taxes I'm not the one to complain. Ok yeah the wood needs sanding and refinishing no biggie so bring on the zombies. Frank

 

[Joe in SC]

Another vote for RIG. I have been using RIG for many years also and have never had a gun rust when treated. I don't use the wool applicator because over time it can pick up grit that will scratch the surface. I use a synthetic fabric like a lady's slip is made of. I cut a square (12X12) and apply a few dabs here and there on the fabric. Then I fold it up and heat it a bit on low with the blow hair dryer. I then work it around in my freshly washed hands to evenly distribute the RIG throughout the cloth. I do 3 or 4 at a time and store them in a zip lock.

Generally I have a bag of RIG "rags" for my range bag and one for the bench. There's one in the safe too. The thin fabric releases the RIG and does not pick up grit like the wool or even a cotton blend cloth will. The rig dosen't soak into the synthetic as it will the other stuff. It will have to be recharged a little more often.

I have used 0000 steel wool for years but would be hesitant to use it on an expensive collectable unless the rust was already to the point of ruining the finish. I always rinse the surface well with solvent and dry when using 4 ought and oil or solvent. I have never had a gun re-rust when treated with rig afterward.

 

[tango-papa]

Rig? Kroil? CorrosionX? Chalk? Etc...

Is the Rig commonly referred to just the Rig grease in a tube or jar or is there an oil version as well?
Trying to figure out how one would "reload" the Rig-rag/applicator with grease?

Please excuse the ignorance as I'm still attempting to figure out the subtleties in properly maintaining my blued S&W revolvers.

Also, and I know everyone's opinion is, well, different...
But, is it...

First Kroil, then CorrosionX, then Rig or Renaissance Wax and into the safe

or...

First CorrosionX, then Kroil, then Rig or Renaissance Wax and into the safe?

Again, still working through my education of custody and care of these beautiful pieces and want to get it right the first time.
Hoppes and Break Free have always been my choice for Sig's, Hk's and Glocks. But those don't have the same maintenance requirements either.

Gotta remember to get some chalk too.


tp