Cleaning stainless revolvers after shooting

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What do you guys use to clean the business-end of cylinders after a range date? I normally just use nitro gun solvent, a rag, and elbow grease. But I'm curious if there is any type of cloth/rag/whatever that's made specifically to help get powder residue off the cylinders?

Thanks.
 
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jerrydm60

is absolutely correct. Lead-Away cloth will make you gun look unfired, but yes, it will remove bluing so use it only on stainless steel guns.
 
Believe it or not. I found that that when I put a few coats of ren wax polish on my 629s and I take them to the range, that the black residue clean up easier often times even w/o the need to use much of a bronze brush.
 
I use fine bronze wool and solvent but removing the burn rings is anal. The doughnuts will be back every time you shoot. Removing them benefits no one, but with all the time many have to kill, what the heck. Bronze wool is better than lead-a-way cloth because the cloth contains a metal polish that will eventually alter the surface appearance the factory created. Most collectors want the surface to look as close to original as practical so any metal polish reduces value.

Can you use it on titanium alloy cylinders?
I do not know but I'd be cautious. S&W applies a surface coat to protect the titanium from powder gasses eroding pits in the titanium. Not all lead-a-way cloth enthusiasts who reply will be aware of that. I'd ask S&W.
 
I second the use of Lead Away cloth for stainless revolver cylinder face. Usually I first apply a brass brush and Hoppes #9 to get most of it off, and then use the Lead Away cloth for getting the stubborn remainder. I can usually do it in a couple of minutes. I am quite confident that this approach, for a stainless revolver, does no harm whatever.
 
Many years ago found out about Scotch Bright grey pads. They will take off all the stuff on the front of the cylinder. I also have a cylinder blank with a hole through the middle. You remove the cylinder put the pad in between the cylinders with the ejector rod running through the pad and into the hole in the cylinder blank. Spin it around a couple of times and presto, all staining on the face of the cylinder is gone.
 
Many years ago found out about Scotch Bright grey pads. They will take off all the stuff on the front of the cylinder. I also have a cylinder blank with a hole through the middle. You remove the cylinder put the pad in between the cylinders with the ejector rod running through the pad and into the hole in the cylinder blank. Spin it around a couple of times and presto, all staining on the face of the cylinder is gone.

Scotch Bright pads are an abrasive the same as sand paper. You could do the same thing with a similar grit sand paper. Either will increase you barrel cylinder gap.
 
Breakfree CLP and a bronze brush. A minute or two of scrubbing, and you have to play with the angle and lighting to see a trace of burn ring.

I should add that I don't typically shoot a lot of rounds through my gun, a 642, at the range. Probably around 75 rounds max, and I clean after every range session. Higher round counts might require a different approach.
 
The easiest way to clean the front of the cylinder is to use Blue Magic - a stainless steel cleaner. A rag and some elbow grease and it looks unfired. There are other products that do the same thing but Blue Magic is my favorite. DO NOT use it on blued guns!

One last thing that I do that you might consider: I remove the cylinder before I polish off the residue because it makes it much easier to clean while off the revolver. Others might disagree.
 
LEWIS LEAD REMOVAL CLOTH IS THE ONLY WAY TO GO. PROBABLY HAVE TO BUY IT ON LINE.
 
What do you guys use to clean the business-end of cylinders after a range date? I normally just use nitro gun solvent, a rag, and elbow grease. But I'm curious if there is any type of cloth/rag/whatever that's made specifically to help get powder residue off the cylinders?

Thanks.
I use #400 steel wool it works with cleaning solvent
 
M Pro7 gun cleaner and a bronze tooth brush will bring the cylinder face back to brand new.

FWIW, I ran out of Breakfree CLP and switched to MPro7. Don't know when I'll be able to get to a range and see how it'll work on burn rings, but I recently cleaned my 1911s with it. I had gotten the bores clean with CLP some time back, and they stay in storage. After spraying some MPro7 in the bore and letting it soak a bit, patches were coming out black. :eek: I'll probably be cleaning the rest of my guns this weekend. It'll be interesting to see how they turn out.
 
lead away cloth just don't use it on blued firearms it will remove the blueing

Jerry et.al.,

I've got a 327 R8 which has a Scandium frame. Currently I am using G96, which I am very pleased with. Was told by many to keep Hoppe's #9 for my stainless, not Scandium.

Is the lead away cloth another good solution for Scandium frames?
 
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