Concealed carry and fast draw.

I just spent a week in the Happiest Place on Earth, and never carried the whole week, something I only do about every three or four years. I decided a long time ago that your carry gun should be so automatic that you forget you're wearing it, except when you're not and you freak for a second and wonder where you left it . . .
 
[Sidebar] Lobo...you commented on a different thread that storing a gun in a leather holster allowed moisture from the holster to rust the gun. Does that apply to "rough exterior" (Galco) type as well? Thanks.

All leather articles have a tendency to absorb and retain moisture, whether it be from the atmosphere or from perspiration. Oxidation (rust) is a function of moisture and temperature, with higher moisture content and higher temperatures resulting in greater oxidation.

Whether a holster has a "rough exterior" or smooth exterior means nothing. Assuming both holsters are leather they will behave similarly; i.e.: collect and retain moisture.

There are several different types of leather, depending on the method of tanning. Leather used for holsters is usually vegetable tanned, using the tannins of bark from trees in water solution to cure the hide. Other methods include brain tanning (each critter's brain is assumed to contain sufficient material to cure its own hide), chrome tanning (metallic chemical salts), and old fashioned dung and urine tanning (earliest known recycling programs were in towns with tanneries, crews went around collecting everyone's "night soil" for use at the tannery).

Some of these leather types are worse than others for holster use. I personally wouldn't want to wear anything next to my body produced with "night soil". All soft leathers, including suede, are chrome-tanned and contain residual chemical salts that can be very corrosive (even "stainless steel" can be etched and eroded by these salts).

I will stand by my advice in other posts. Remove your handgun from the holster at the end of each day's use, wipe it down with an oily rag or silicone treated cloth, and store the holster away from the handgun in an area with sufficient airflow to allow residual moisture to evaporate away naturally.

Best regards.
 
All leather articles have a tendency to absorb and retain moisture, whether it be from the atmosphere or from perspiration. Oxidation (rust) is a function of moisture and temperature, with higher moisture content and higher temperatures resulting in greater oxidation.

Whether a holster has a "rough exterior" or smooth exterior means nothing. Assuming both holsters are leather they will behave similarly; i.e.: collect and retain moisture.

There are several different types of leather, depending on the method of tanning. Leather used for holsters is usually vegetable tanned, using the tannins of bark from trees in water solution to cure the hide. Other methods include brain tanning (each critter's brain is assumed to contain sufficient material to cure its own hide), chrome tanning (metallic chemical salts), and old fashioned dung and urine tanning (earliest known recycling programs were in towns with tanneries, crews went around collecting everyone's "night soil" for use at the tannery).

Some of these leather types are worse than others for holster use. I personally wouldn't want to wear anything next to my body produced with "night soil". All soft leathers, including suede, are chrome-tanned and contain residual chemical salts that can be very corrosive (even "stainless steel" can be etched and eroded by these salts).

I will stand by my advice in other posts. Remove your handgun from the holster at the end of each day's use, wipe it down with an oily rag or silicone treated cloth, and store the holster away from the handgun in an area with sufficient airflow to allow residual moisture to evaporate away naturally.

Best regards.
I use both chrome tan and veg. tan leather. I don't like to keep the chrome tan even in the same room as the veg tan for that very reason.
 
Settle on one CCW and stick with it. You can't develop muscle memory and instinctive handling of your weapon if you keep switching.
 
Settle on one CCW and stick with it. You can't develop muscle memory and instinctive handling of your weapon if you keep switching.

Disagree, if you stay within the same platform you shouldn't have a problem.

I don't notice any difference between my 2 third gens.
 
For the majority of my LEO career I carried a Government Model Colt in 45 ACP. My off-duty weapon was a Commander (the original alloy version) set up exactly like the duty gun. Only difference in carry was the GM was carried in field gear while the Commander was carried IWB, but both were in the same position and at the same angle.

When I retired and didn't carry the GM any more I still competed in practical shooting matches with a GM and still carried the Commander. That went on for over 10 years.

Because of arthritis I can no longer consistently operate the thumb safety or handle the frame pounding my swollen knuckle. I've switched to Glocks and follow much the same idea as before. I have a G30 for carry and a new G41 for range. Same trigger, same operating system and same basic grip with both.

Dave
 
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Several here have mentioned, "drawing by the numbers" but none have said what those numbers are. So, here's a tutorial:
  1. Shooting hand gets a good firing grip on the gun. Support hand goes to mid section.
  2. Gun is drawn straight up until the muzzle just clears the holster.
  3. Shooting hand elbow is pivoted down which rotates the gun muzzle toward bad guy. Shot may be taken from here if necessary.
  4. Gun moves straight forward toward target, safety off. Support hand meets shooting hand getting the proper support grip.
  5. Gun is pressed straight out toward target. Finger on trigger with slack out. Sight alignment and sight picture are obtained.
This is how I do it and how I teach it. Some may do it differently and I welcome the discussion.

The goal here is not a fast draw. Rather, it's about precision and being able to ensure a good grip witch means good hits.
 
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Not a big fan of fast draw. More a fan of deliberate draw. Less chance of a hole in my leg. Like Wyatt Earp said, "Fast is fine, but accurate's final."
 
Numbers question....

Several here have mentioned, "drawing by the numbers" but none have said what those numbers are. So, here's a tutorial:

1. Shooting hand gets a good firing grip on the gun. Support hand goes to mid section.

2. Gun is drawn straight up until the muzzle just clears the holster.

3. Shooting hand elbow is pivoted down which rotates the gun muzzle toward bad guy. Shot may be taken from here if necessary.

4. Gun moves straight forward toward target, safety off. Support hand meets shooting hand getting the proper support grip.


Just out of curiosity....if wearing a light cover garment (button up shirt, etc...) where does that fit on the number line?

Lad
 
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Several here have mentioned, "drawing by the numbers" but none have said what those numbers are. So, here's a tutorial:

1. Shooting hand gets a good firing grip on the gun. Support hand goes to mid section.

2. Gun is drawn straight up until the muzzle just clears the holster.

3. Shooting hand elbow is pivoted down which rotates the gun muzzle toward bad guy. Shot may be taken from here if necessary.

4. Gun moves straight forward toward target, safety off. Support hand meets shooting hand getting the proper support grip.


Just out of curiosity....if wearing a light cover garment (button up shirt, etc...) where does that fit on the number line?


Lad

Sweeping away the cover garment is a part of 1. Normally taught as the hand in a "knife" fingers together and thumb touching the base of the index with no gaps.

The "fun" is different garments may require a different approach to consistent clearing. Best done by starting with a "red gun" or heavy plastic, non-firing, training tool in the shape of your carry.

Practice is precise and at one quarter normal speed to begin. Trying not to look as much as paying attention to the feel of as perfect a draw possible.

Remember to breath, acquire sight picture and squeeze the shot, perhaps again or three. This should vary to avoid ingraining the one shot and pause and moving to shooting till your world is safe.

Access your world post shots in lower ready during practice. Check 360 and again. Then practice the moves to reload and precisely reverse the steps and return the "topped off" firearm to the holster.

Adding lights in hand. 90 degree turns, use of cover, low light, etc. is all the benefit of solid training from well researched instructors.

In the basic training only the arms should be in movement. People who drop their head to the firearm, cant their head, lower themselves by bending forward, or worse back or bend one or both knees are just adding more factors that add to a miss.

Once this is solid then add dynamics to shooting. A great set of instructors in a great facility is much more important than buying 6 or 20 more handguns or burning ammo without improvement in mind.

Keep a log, at least for the first year of training and practice on weaknesses. Most tend to play to their strengths while shooting. Relaxed, fun, recreational shooting is also important but it should be in addition to training if you plan on the potential defensive use of a handgun. Train thoughtfully and precisely. Safe and smooth.

I am no Wyatt Earp…but I lived in the same town he did (Nome, Alaska - my high school). Still a privilege to live in our great state.

This is only a bit more personal view to a lot of core and important thoughts already shared.
 
OK OP , hats off for thinking about the subject , and practicing your draws.

That said you comparison exercise of testing several pistols at a particular moment in time gave you results for that particular moment in time. A few thousand practice repetitions with a particular gun ( or holster ) could alter the results. If there is a particular gun that you feel is particularily suitable ( or is issued/ required ) , then it is incumbent on you to train yourself to become suficently fast with it.

My highly simplified Number System = 1. Obtain a firing grip on the gun while it is still in the holster 2. Move it smoothly into firing position w/o any wasted or extrainous motion. And practice both ending in two handed and one handed firing positions. As far as exact combination of arm/ wrist/ elbow movements , it depends. Within a broad catagory such as * strongside belt holster * differences in ride height and angle ( FBI tilt vs true vertical vs reverse tilt ) make subtle differences in drawstrokes.
 
And yes , short bbl revolvers do draw nicely. Everything else being equal , they require 2 inches less movement to clear the holster.
Now in looking at the total picture I don't know if that would tip the scales for a 2in J frame as a primary/ only gun. ( A 2 or 2.5 or 2.75 inch medimum frame revolver works for me though. )

Plenty fast enough is a good thing , but after a point incrementaly a couple thousandths faster must be balanced overall.
 
On leather rusting guns. I was a door shaker forever. We carried company guns that were handed off to our reliefs 24-7. I never seen a rusted one. Some of our guns were colt official polices from the early 1950s. I tried to always find one. Most of them though were stainless speed sixs and 586`s. I started out in burbank but spent most of my years in palmdale on the hot mohave desert. Still, with uncountable people handeling the guns I just never seen one with rust! And I know for a fact it was very rare to see one that had oil on it. How do you explain that? Not many of the guards were gun people.
 
On leather rusting guns. I was a door shaker forever. We carried company guns that were handed off to our reliefs 24-7. I never seen a rusted one. Some of our guns were colt official polices from the early 1950s. I tried to always find one. Most of them though were stainless speed sixs and 586`s. I started out in burbank but spent most of my years in palmdale on the hot mohave desert. Still, with uncountable people handeling the guns I just never seen one with rust! And I know for a fact it was very rare to see one that had oil on it. How do you explain that? Not many of the guards were gun people.

But you were in a very dry climate
 
...Trying to (fast draw) with 10 different handguns is silly.

Pick your handgun and learn to use it.

Folks who 'rotate' lots of handguns can't be competent with all, or most, or probably any.

Just my opinion, of course.

I wholeheartedly agree...
 
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Any gun carried in "deep concealment" is going to take longer to draw.
IF one's primary goal is to somehow "outdraw" the thug who walks in the door with his gun in hand, then the primary goal is ridiculously flawed.
Those who carry "deep" understand the delay factor but do so KNOWING that most clown-heads won't be expecting what happens next...
 
1. Dry climate.

2. Those guns were Carried 24/7 , not stored. Even when straped in to the holster , body movement and flexing of the leather provides movement over the surface of the gun. The same forces that cause the proverbial Holster Wear upon blued finishes , also slow the formation of rust.


But trust me , in more humid climates they will rust without at least minimal care.
 

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