Concealed carry revolver - need advice

[M.Cunningham]

Ankle holsters are indeed uncomfortable, even with a light weight gun. I had one made by Thad Rybka that had a sheath for a Gerber Guardian on it. That was fairly comfortable, considering it held a PPK.

Ridiculous? Yes, on a bare leg, but there are few options for carrying here at the nudist colony.

Gotcha, the nudist colony eh? LOL

 

[zzclancy]

I carry a S&W M&P 340 and load it with Gold Dot 38 special + p 135 grain short barrel ammo. Ammo was specifically designed for short barrel revolvers for the NYPD. I carry it everywhere, always in a pocket. Even if I carry a full size weapon it is always with me. Yes it's worth the extra money for the Xdot night sight. Nothing wrong with being stuck with a light weight J frame.

 

[Mister X]

The no-lock 642/442 are the best bang for the buck that fit your criteria. I prefer the 642 for the stainless. For pocket carry, I like Mika pocket holsters.

640's are nice, but fairly heavy for pocket carry and cost at least another $200+. There's the 340 M&P, but it's way too expensive for what you get IMO since you could buy two 642's(New York reload) for the price.

 

[P33v3]

So I'm in the market for a revolver that will be my primary (I only want to carry one) and only CCW. Obviously this means a few things:
1) I need to be very proficient with it. To include presentation from concealment and reloading, of course.
2) I need to actually carry it every day and hide it on my person. I hate IWB with a revolver, but OWB is not very hidden usually, especially in warm weather. I guess that leaves ankle or pocket carry.
3) I'd like it to have more than 5 shots but will concede this if it's not keeping in line with above (2).

I've heard the best carry revolvers were the 3" RB K-frames but they seem rather large for EDC in the real world. Probably not very comfortable either for all-day concealment.
So am I stuck with a J-frame? If so, which one? I like the heft of the all-steel vs alloy/poly types... and that should help with gaining proficiency, as it will be more shooter friendly. Of course, that means an extra 4-5 oz of weight to lug around.
What does the S&W lineup (to include obtainable discontinued models) have for me?

Let me give you some advice from someone who has spent a S***-ton of cash trying to find the perfect J-Frame. In the past 2 years I have bought the following:

442
642
M&P 340CT
Several others I don't remember.

The Airweights are uncomfortable for me to shoot. They are too light and any more than a couple of cylinder full is uncomfortable. I do not want to cringe trying to shoot.

So what is the best option?

Just get a Model 36 Chiefs Special which if I remember is right under 20oz. Throw on some Pachmayr SJ-C Compac grips and call it a day. You will have a perfect EDC. Throw a couple of speed strips or speed loaders in your pocket and you are well armed. It will last you forever and go bang every single time.

 

[fchretireddet]

I recently retired from LE and had carried Glock 26 or Glock 19. Now mostly S&W 640-3 .357 in Don Hume OWB (no thumb break) or S&W 686+ 3" in an ? OWB with thumb break (with 2 speed loaders for either being carried). Both around 3:30-4:00 carry location. Usually under a loose T-shirt or untucked sport shirt. Ammunition: Speer Gold Dot .38.
Best of luck with whatever you choose. Remember, Safety first and Practice...

 

[ContinentalOp]

I agree with those who said the ideal situation would be an airweight J-frame for carry and occasional practice and a steel J-frame for regular practice.

However, if you're only going to get one I'd suggest the 642-1. I think the airweight's are more versatile in terms of how many ways you can carry them. They're also relatively inexpensive and fairly easy to find in case a replacement (or a back-up) is needed.

I'll also add that most people can conceal carry bigger/heavier guns than they think they can, but it may require a little additional care and consideration when choosing clothing and/or holsters/belts. I've carried a 3" K-frame for 12+ hours/day and never had an issue, but I carried IWB on a good quality gun belt (I like Beltman).

 

[Brasky]

I never saw the value in a belt costing considerably more than a cheap Walmart belt but I may try one.

Does it hold your pants up any better?

I was thinking about getting suspenders.

A good belt is as important if not more important than a good holster. You dont need a $100 belt as I found a double-ply wrangler belt at a local farm store for $20.

Hold the edges of the belt, one side with your thumb and the other with your index finger. If you can pinch and the belt folds it is not stiff enough.

Another good tip is buy your pants 1-2 sizes bigger than you normally wear to accommodate the gun and holster

 

[wrangler5]

+1 for a solid belt IF you're going to be carrying OWB at any point. I carried IWB for many years and did just fine with a Wilderness Instructor 5-stitch belt - a stiff woven nylon belt that got worn with suits and jeans alike, everything but the tuxedo I have to wear once a year. But it wasn't quite stiff enough to keep a lightweight J frame in an OWB holster tucked tight against my body, and not nearly stiff enough to keep a K frame snubbie tucked tight. I now use a Lobo belt for all purposes (1.25") and it does the job, IWB or OWB.

Let me also give a +1 on the recommendation to get a Crimson Trace laser grip. You can zero it for whatever your carry ammo is, and you will know at all times where your shot is going, even if the gun isn't up at eye level. I do my most accurate shooting when I can use mine, and it is also the best dry fire training device ever invented. But mine is red so it's not much use in bright light. If you don't have one already I'd suggest waiting for the green lasers to be available in the extended J frame grip, which cushions the backstrap and has room for all your fingers. I had a chance to shoot a green CT-equipped gun last month and the experience in daylight was stunning - I could see the green dot on a black target face at 20 yards in direct sunlight. There was absolutely no doubt where the shot was going with that setup. As good as the red laser is on my 640 in dim light, I'm saving up to replace it with a green one.

 

[Atonal]

442!

 

[BB57]

So I'm in the market for a revolver that will be my primary (I only want to carry one) and only CCW. Obviously this means a few things:
1) I need to be very proficient with it. To include presentation from concealment and reloading, of course.

2) I need to actually carry it every day and hide it on my person. I hate IWB with a revolver, but OWB is not very hidden usually, especially in warm weather. I guess that leaves ankle or pocket carry.

3) I'd like it to have more than 5 shots but will concede this if it's not keeping in line with above (2).

I've heard the best carry revolvers were the 3" RB K-frames but they seem rather large for EDC in the real world. Probably not very comfortable either for all-day concealment.
So am I stuck with a J-frame? If so, which one? I like the heft of the all-steel vs alloy/poly types... and that should help with gaining proficiency, as it will be more shooter friendly. Of course, that means an extra 4-5 oz of weight to lug around.
What does the S&W lineup (to include obtainable discontinued models) have for me?

I've conceal carried handguns for 29 years and over the years I have carried full size .45 ACP 1911s, 9mm Browning Hi Powers, full size 9mm CZ 75's, compact .45 ACP 1911's, compact 9mm CZ-75s, various PP and PPK/S .380 ACP pistols, and then eventually .38 Special and .38 Special +P S&W Model 36's and finally an S&W Model 60 in .357 Magnum - in that evolutionary order.

Concealed carry is always a balancing act between comfort, controllability, terminal effectiveness and magazine capacity. Reliability is also a potential issue given hollow point bullets and the practical and operational realities of wearing a gun every waking hour.

I started out feeling the 1911 in .45 ACP was the only valid choice as it offered comparatively good stopping power and the ability to reload quickly. And I shot the 1911 very well as it fit my hand very well. It was however not comfortable to carry concealed and carrying it concealed effectively meant dressing around the pistol, which meant you looked like you were carrying concealed - which pretty much defeats the purpose.

I switched to 9mm eventually when 9mm hollow point performance improved to the point that the 9mm round was finally both reliable and effective for self defense - with the benefit of 13-15 round magazine capacity. The downside is that a Browning Hi Power or full size CZ 75 was just as hard to conceal and the spare magazine was larger and harder to conceal. Despite 13-15 rounds in the magazine, with a semi-auto pistol you still need to carry a spare mag as it's the fastest, best was to clear most of the jams that are still present after tap-rack-bang fails to clear it.

Once Kimber started making a compact 1911 that was actually reliable (and none of the compact 1911s that preceded it were) a compact 1911 made sense in terms of having good terminal effectiveness, controllability and accuracy a small 7 round magazine that was easy to carry, and a more concealable form factor. Unfortunately it still wasn't comfortable for all day carry (although their current carry melt option would help, it's just hideously expensive). And the reality is that as well as I shoot the .45 ACP after years of practical pistol competition, I shoot the 9mm Para better, getting 3 A zone hits in the same time it takes to get 2 A zone hits with a .45 ACP.

Thus the compact CZ 75, although it was still not comfortable enough to ensure I'd carry it all day long - and if your self defense weapon is 20 ft away when a threat bursts in your door, you're screwed.

That led to carrying PP and PPK/S pistols in .380 ACP - sacrificing some terminal performance as having a handgun on me all the time was a better option than having a better one on me only part of the time. I will say that I found the longer PP to be no less comfortable to carry than a Walther or Manuhrin PPK/S. (And the S&W PPK/S was never comfortable to carry IWB due to the longer tang digging into my side.)

Imagine my surprise one day when I discovered that a J-frame Model 36 revolver with all its edges and the relatively wide cylinder was far more comfortable to carry than a PP or PPK/S. It wasn't perfect as the terminal ballistics of a standard pressure .38 Special out of a 1 7/8" or 2 1/8" barrel are worse than a decent .380 ACP load (like the 90 gr XTP) out of a 3.5"-3.9" barrel pistol.

That led to a S&W Model 36-10, a 2 1/8" S&W Model 60 in .357 Magnum and finally a 3" S&W Model 60 in .357, which is in a word, "perfect" for concealed carry.

I've found the 3" Model 60 to be comfortable to carry (I don't even notice it, standing, walking, sitting, driving, all day long when carried in a well designed holster. It's easy to conceal and with a Hogue Monoblock grip it's comfortable to shoot with 125 gr bullets at 1300 fps, even in an extended range session. It's also accurate, capable of holding 3" groups at 25 yards and the adjustable sights ensure the rounds go to point of aim.

Now...it's true that it only carries 5 rounds, but any enforcement of laws I do now is done from behind a desk and my needs are purely personal protection, where nearly all engagements are over and done with in less than 5 seconds at ranges less than 5 yards and with less than 5 rounds expended. In fact, the FBI analyzed 12 years of shooting data and found that 90% of it's agents involved shootings involved 3 rounds or less fired at 3 yards or less.

And those 5 rounds are a very credible 125 gr hollow point load that exceeds 9mm para performance and is at least equal to .45 ACP terminal ballistics.

Plus Wild Bill's Concealment (the same people who make the holster pictured) makes a slip over the belt speed loader carrier that allows you to carry one or two speed loaders in a very low profile, yet comfortable manner, hooking either 2 or 3 rounds inside your belt.

I'll also put in a good word for the 3" Ruger SP101 in .357 Magnum as well. It's about 4 oz heavier than a 3" S&W Model 60, but the top strap is heavier and the forcing cone is at least twice as heavy as the forcing cone on the Model 60, giving it much greater durability with full power loads. It's not quite as accurate, and it lacks some of the smoothness of operation of Model 60 as you feel the parts moving a bit more during a DA trigger pull with an SP101 than you do with a Model 60, but it is a gun that will survive 100-150 round range sessions with full power .357 magnum loads. A Model 60 won't stand up to a lifelong diet of .357 Magnum loads, it is rather a revolver that is intended to be carried with .357 magnum but shot in practice with .38 Special.

-----

Consequently, I don't think you are 'stuck' with a J-frame as one of the steel J Magnum frame sized 3" revolvers in either .38 Special +P or .357 Magnum will offer you good to great terminal ballistics, great to good controllability, excellent accuracy, and a very comfortable form factor to carry in a well designed IWB holster.

That's a far better option that going with one of the less durable, harder to shoot and less effective lightweight .38's, and it avoids the tactical disadvantages of ankle or pocket carry.

 

[Biscut]

As an old retired cop who carried J-frames on a regular basis since 1977, I prefer the 340 M&P or 640 (mine is a -1). For ammunition, I carry the Buffalo Bore 158 gr. +p LHP at a true 1000 fps out of the 2" barrel. I generally pocket carry the 340 M&P, which I prefer due to the Scandium frame due to durability over the straight aluminum frame.

For OWB/IWB carry, I like the 640-1, but generally carry the Buffalo Bore also. Both guns are easy to conceal and carry.

I was never a revolver fan but picked up a M&P 340. I've carried it almost daily for well over a year getting on 2. I have a total of 500+ 357 and 500+ 38 thru this platform. Difficult to shoot yes, but if you shoot a little frequently you can be pretty darn accurate.

I also carry the Buffalo Bore but LSWC 158gr. BB line of ammo meant for the snubby J's are truly fantastic.

 

[TeaDub]

Another vote for the 640 no-dash if you can find one that is clean. I have it on good authority that they carry very well and the action is smooth as butter.

An easier option may be getting an Airweight in the flavor you like and then ordering "Cowboy" loads to handle the bulk of your training. I have been pleased with the GA Arms variety. It is a mildly loaded 38 Special that matches the projectile weight of my carry loads. Several boxes are pleasant to shoot out of an Airweight. I then finish off with a cylinder or two of the hot stuff. GA Arms ships their ammo pretty reasonably priced.

 

[sb56]

What about 327?

I have the opportunity to pick one up however the previous owner swapped out the titanium cylinder for stainless steel. I am new to revolvers but what I have read this is a solid revolver and uses to concealed carry. Any input appreciated.

 

[OLDSTER]

concealed carry

I shoot my EDC guns, and do NOT enjoy shooting J frames. So this is what I do enjoy; a 1949 M&P snub

 

[SeamasterSig]

I agree with Arik on the merits of a proper gun belt and good holster. They are at least as important as your choice of handgun. You didn't mention where you live, but living in SW Florida, I can attest that it is possible to conceal even a 4" K-frame carried OWB in very warm weather if you really want to.

But I'm not limited to just one gun for all occasions. If I wanted to limit myself to just one revolver, I think I would look for a model 60 with a 3" barrel. Then I would make sure to have both a good OWB as well as IWB holsters. It would also be a good candidate for a shoulder holster, too. If you're going to limit yourself to one gun, you should compensate by maximizing your carry options.

If you can warm up to the idea of two revolvers, then I would suggest something like a model 686 with a 3" barrel and whatever J-frame snubbie strikes your fancy. This would give you the best of both worlds with two realistically concealable revolvers in multiple sizes and levels of power, depending on your mood/wardrobe on any given day. Having options is never a bad thing.

 

[dr. K]

Hey, I can SEE that gun!

"My eyes are up HERE, sir."

 

[0311INF]

Thanks for all the great info everyone! I've still not made my decision but am leaning heavily toward the 36.
I've had 3 SP101s and have a love/hate relationship with Ruger. Their quality in general has taken a huge hit in the past few years. In fact of the 8 Ruger revolvers I've at one time owned, I have had to send 3 back to the factory, and now own 0.
The model 60 seems nice, I'm looking at that option as well.
I would love a short barreled 686+ too.

 

[wogentry]

+1 to what JayBird said. I enjoy shooting my EDC guns and while I have 3 J-frames they rarely get carried. Model 10-5 2", Model 10-5 4"(pictured) are the two usual companions. The 1951 M&P(pictured) on special occasions, or the 4" Highway patrolman out in real rural areas.

 

[HOUSTON RICK]

The largest 357 revolver that you can carry.

 

[Lobster Picnic]

Can't go wrong with a steel J-frame.