Confused: Are S&W revolver barrels supposed to be canted?

Actually Joe, I forget.. I sold my beautiful Python.... still got my King Cobra and a little 38.. heck I ain't checking nothing....... cause I'm not the least bit concerned!!! Same goes with my Smiths.... not a bit of concern..
 
I have seen this several times on different guns. Tolerances have changed over the years, and I cannot and will not tolerate the front sight not being where it is supposed to be.
 
I have a Model 60-9 that had a slightly canted barrel. Never was a problem shooting, but always bothered me. I finally had a friend who is a master gunsmith straighten it. Looks like S&W could do better at the factory.
 
One could always go really wild and get this done, who knows, maybe they'd do it for your revolver. ;)

30438_SideSightGunGangs.jpg
 
I have noticed some S&W have angled front sites.Not cannted barrels but the insert itself looks like the mold they were made from have more material making the site angle to one side.As far as Ruger and Colt being perfect? I purchased 2 new stainless Vaqueros 4 years ago with serial numbers atleast a year apart and the front blades were so bad i had to open up the rear grove 1/4 inch to the left to get POA to match POI.but in CAS a wider rear site picture helps get you on target faster so no big deal.Then theres Colt? I will agree i have never seen a python with a canted barrel But they do not always shoot perfectly with the rear site centered.I have seen 3 6inch pythons that require almost full adjustment to the right to obtain correct POA to POI.
 
Actually Joe, I forget.. I sold my beautiful Python.... still got my King Cobra and a little 38.. heck I ain't checking nothing....... cause I'm not the least bit concerned!!! Same goes with my Smiths.... not a bit of concern..

WELL JACK, I SEE THAT YOU ARE A MECHANIC. I WILL ASSUME THAT YOU HAVE BUILT, OR REBUILT MOTORS. I AM NOT A MECHANIC, BUT I HAVE BEEN A MOTOR HEAD / HOT RODDER FOR OVER 50 YEARS. WE BOTH KNOW HOW TO MEASURE IN THOUSANDS OF AN INCH, AND THAT THE RANGE OF MANY ACCEPTABLE TOLERANCES IN ENGINES, LIKE MAIN BEARINGS ETC, ARE ONLY A FEW THOUSANDS OF AN INCH. ANYWHERE IN THAT RANGE WILL ALLOW THE MOTOR TO RUN. OIL PRESSURE MAY BE LOWER THAN ONE WOULD LIKE TO SEE IN A PERFORMANCE MOTOR---BUT IT WILL RUN. IN A REGULAR STREET CAR, WHICH WARNS YOU OF LOW OIL PRESSURE BY USE OF AN "IDIOT LGHT" (WHICH MAY LIGHT A FEW SECONDS AFTER YOUR MOTOR SEIZES) YOU WILL NEVER KNOW WHAT YOUR OIL PRESSURE IS. WE ALSO KNOW THAT PERFORMANCE BUILDERS "BLUE PRINT" MOTORS TO EXACT SPECS RATHER THAN WITHIN A RANGE. THEIR AIM IS TO ALLOW THE MOTOR TO RUN AS EFFICIENTLY AS POSSIBLE, AND PRODUCE MAXIMUM HORSEPOWER……

NOW, LET'S MAKE THE ANALOGY TO THE WORLD OF REVOLVERS. A "BLUE PRINTED" REVOLVER WOULD BE ONE WHERE THE FRONT SIGHT IS SEATED PERFECTLY AT THE 12 O'CLOCK POSITION. THAT REVOLVER WILL WORK MOST EFFICIENTLY AND PRODUCE MAXIMUM ACCURACY. THAT IS WHAT I WOULD EXPECT FROM EACH AND EVERY REVOLVER THAT COMES OUT OF THE S&W PERFORMANCE CENTER. (ALL OF MY PYTHONS WERE HAND FITTED TO EXACT TOLERANCES. THAT IS WHY THEY WERE SO EXPENSIVE.) THAT IS WHAT I EXPECT WHEN I PURCHASE A FIREARM THAT BEARS THE NAME OF JERRY M. THAT IS WHY I WOULD BE PAYING A PREMIUM TO OWN ONE. THERE WAS A TIME WHEN THE S&W REVOLVER, WHILE NOT HAND FITTED LIKE THE PYTHON, STILL EXHIBITED A FINE DEGREE OF CRAFTSMANSHIP AND PRIDE IN THE PRODUCT. THOSE WERE REGULAR PRODUCTION MODELS. JUDGING BY THE COMPLAINTS ABOUT REGULAR PRODUCTION MODELS AND EVEN PREMIUM MODELS LIKE PC AND JM REVOLVERS, THAT IS NO LONGER THE CASE……

NOW YOU AND I MAY DIFFER IN OUR TASTES, WHEN IT COMES TO CARS AND FIREARMS. I HAVE DRIVEN A FAST AND LOUD CAR SINCE I WAS 16 YEARS OF AGE. I'M 73 YEARS OLD NOW, AND I OWN A RESTORED 1967 CORVETTE ROADSTER, WITH A 4 SPEED AND SIDE PIPES, AND A HOT RODDED 1966 OLDSMOBILE WITH A 468 CUBIC INCH MOTOR STUFFED WITH PERFORMANCE PARTS. BOTH OF THESE CARS CRUISE EFFORTLESSLY AT OVER 100 MPH, AND WILL WAKE THE DEAD. THIS MIGHT NOT BE YOUR CUP OF TEA---AND THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH THAT. AFTER DEALING WITH CARS AT WORK ALL DAY, THE LAST THING YOU MAY WANT TO DO WHEN YOU GET HOME IS TINKER WITH ANOTHER CAR. WHILE YOU MAY BE CONTENT TO MERELY DRIVE A CAR THAT WILL START UP, AND GET YOU TO THE MARKET, OR CARRY YOU AND THE FAMILY AROUD IN SILENT AIR-CONDITIONED LUXURY WHILE YOU BLEND IN WITH TRAFFIC, I AM NOT. IT JUST ISN'T MY PERSONALITY…..

BY THE SAME TOKEN, YOU MAY BE SATISFIED WITH SHOOTING A FIREARM THAT GETS YOU ON THE PAPER, OR ALLOWS YOU TO MAKE HITS ON HUMAN TORSO TARGETS, BUT I AM NOT. 20+ YEARS OF BULLSEYE COMPETITION HAS RUINED ME FOR THAT LEVEL OF ACCURACY. I MAINTAINED AN AVERAGE IN THE LOW TO MID 290s FOR AROUND A DECADE, WHICH WAS DECENT FOR A GUY WORKING 3 JOBS, WITH NOT MUCH AVAILABLE RANGE TIME. I LOSE INTEREST IN HANDGUNS THAT CAN'T PRINT CLOVERLEAFS IN THE X RING AT 50', IF I DO MY PART. THE GROUPS ON TARGETS POSTED IN THE THREAD ARE UNACCEPTABLE TO ME. THE FACT THAT THE CONDITION CANNOT BE CORRECTED BY SIGHT ADJUSTMENT TELLS ME THAT SOMETHING IS AMISS. IF THAT FIREARM IS WITHIN "ACCEPTABLE" TOLERANCES, THE DEFINITION OF WHAT IS ACCEPTABLE SHOULD BE REVISITED. OF COURSE, THIS IS JUST MY HUMBLE OPINION. I CERTAINLY DON'T HAVE THE EXPERTISE TO BUILD FIREARMS, NOR DO I HAVE THE INCLINATION TO BUBBA THE ONES THAT I DO OWN WITH "TOOLS FOUND IN ANYONE'S HOME"…...

A REVOLVER WITH 5 DEGREES OF CAN'T TO THE BARREL WOULD BE NOTICEABLE, I PRESUME, EACH AND EVERY TIME I LOOKED AT THE SIGHT PICTURE. I WOULD FIND THAT INTOLERABLE, AND IF S&W WOULD NOT FIX IT, BECAUSE IT WAS "WITHIN SPECS" I WOULD BE FORCED TO SELL IT. IF I DAMAGED THE BODY OF EITHER OF MY CARS, I WOULD BE FORCED TO FIX IT. I COULD NOT TOLERATE DRIVING THE CAR AROUND LIKE THAT. WE ALL HAVE DIFFERENT HABITS…..

IN ANY EVENT, I WISH THE BEST TO ALL WHO HAVE PARTICIPATED IN THIS THREAD, ESPECIALLY TO THOSE WHO SEEK A SOLUTION TO THEIR PROBLEM FROM CUSTOMER SERVICE. I THINK THAT YOU DESERVE NOTHING LESS, AND I HOPE THAT THEY SATISFY YOU……..
 
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Good post Joe, I enjoyed reading it. I like the analogy, very good to put it into my area. We are a bit more alike than you may know. I too, love my hotrods and it just so happens I purchased a 1965 Corvette, 327-350hp with the factory side pipes when I was 18 for a grand total of $1450... (43 years ago) I loved that car, UNFORTUNATELY SOLD IT... that's one I regret not keeping. But I sold it to rebuild and upgrade my 1968 XLCH Harley Sportster.... which was even louder!!! Like you, I like loud cars and big bangs!! Today, I still own 3 Harleys, just sold my V-rod yesterday for 7 very fine guns... still got that 68 Sporty with the very loud XLR drag pipes... I have a few turbo charged drag cars.... one that runs 8.30's in the 1\4 mile around 168mph. A very loud Dodge diesel dully..

Now here is where we differ, but u nailed it, I own lots of S&W revolvers, including the JM 625, which I am going to pull out and take a peek next to my oldest model 1917... and for fun I will put the Cobra next to them... I don't target shoot, I shoot for fun and to hit the target so that I feel confident I can protect myself should the need arise.....

Happy Palm Sunday!!
 
But that is not the point. If you get your revolver back and it does not shoot to point of aim, I would send it back (with a target and description of the ammunition used) and ask for help. I would NOT mention anything about canted sights, the internet, or how you think they should fix it. JMHO. Good luck!:)[/QUOTE]
What a great point,I totally agree with this response.
I am not a smith or a mechanic, so when I have an issue I bring it to the professionals I don't tell them whats wrong I tell them it's not right so fix it....
 
Good post Joe, I enjoyed reading it. I like the analogy, very good to put it into my area. We are a bit more alike than you may know. I too, love my hotrods and it just so happens I purchased a 1965 Corvette, 327-350hp with the factory side pipes when I was 18 for a grand total of $1450... (43 years ago) I loved that car, UNFORTUNATELY SOLD IT... that's one I regret not keeping. But I sold it to rebuild and upgrade my 1968 XLCH Harley Sportster.... which was even louder!!! Like you, I like loud cars and big bangs!! Today, I still own 3 Harleys, just sold my V-rod yesterday for 7 very fine guns... still got that 68 Sporty with the very loud XLR drag pipes... I have a few turbo charged drag cars.... one that runs 8.30's in the 1\4 mile around 168mph. A very loud Dodge diesel dully..

Now here is where we differ, but u nailed it, I own lots of S&W revolvers, including the JM 625, which I am going to pull out and take a peek next to my oldest model 1917... and for fun I will put the Cobra next to them... I don't target shoot, I shoot for fun and to hit the target so that I feel confident I can protect myself should the need arise.....

Happy Palm Sunday!!

HAPPY PALM SUNDAY TO YOU ALSO, BROTHER. WE ARE MUCH MORE ALIKE THAN I IMAGINED. YOU TOO HAVE THE NEED FOR SPEED. MY VETTE IS A 327 / 350HP CAR ALSO. I'M RUNNING ALUMINUM HEADS AND AN ELECTRONIC IGNITION--ALL DISGUISED AS STOCK. I OUTRAN A STATE TROOPER @ 150 MPH, AND WAS ABLE TO GET OFF THE HIGHWAY AND FORTUNATELY ESCAPE ARREST. I HAD NEVER DRIVEN THE CAR THAT FAST BEFORE. I FELT THE FRONT END FLOATING. I HAVE 3.36 GEARS AND I WASN'T REDLINED YET. THE MOTOR WAS STILL PULLING. THE CAR REALLY NEEDS A CHIN SPOILER IF YOU ARE GOING TO DRIVE IT LIKE THAT. I NEVER DID IT AGAIN…..

I RODE A HARLEY K, THE PREDECESSOR TO THE SPORTSTER, IN THE DAYS OF MY YOUTH. I SOLD IT BEFORE I LEFT FOR VIETNAM, JUST NOT TO LEAVE ANOTHER PROBLEM FOR MY FAMILY TO DEAL WITH IN CASE I DIDN'T MAKE IT BACK ALIVE…..

WE BOTH ENJOY SHOOTING ALSO. WE JUST HAVE DIFFERENT EXPECTATIONS OF A FIREARM. THERE'S NO RIGHT OR WRONG WAY, AND ITS ALL GOOD. I ENJOYED OUR DISCUSSION A GREAT DEAL. STAY SAFE…..
 
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I had the same problem with a new 686 Pro model. They corrected the problem without issue. If the cant causes the rear sight to not be centered, IMHO, the cant is excessive and needs to be corrected. Call S&W and ask for gunsmith Vito.
 
Only a few degrees of rotation...

This seems to be a very complicated and risky process to correct from some of the info I am reading from the Jerry Kuhnhausen shop manual.
Once the barrel is tight and properly torqued to the shoulder there is the possibility when trying to 'un-torque' and rotate that the frame could stress/crack.
It is not doubt a very involved process to be done correctly. Out of curiosity I wonder what your forcing cone gap is? If the barrel is backed out it will open the gap up unless there is a shim modification to the cylinder/yoke set up if I am thinking this through correctly?
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I think you are right about the gap, but we are only talking a few degrees of rotation and there is also a tolerance in the gap where it could be opened or closed a little. This combination may decide if the barrel can just be lined up, or whether work with the cylinder or the face of the barrel needs work which would be much more complicated.
 
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